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You could do this. Or if your club foot says spark arrestor like Saw Miller`s post your good. In the USA they officially have to be US forestry approved which costs lots of bucks for testing. (Bultaco tried just stamping them without the testing) So it depends how sensible a law it is. Should just need a mesh screen that meets being small enough.
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Glad your noisy engine is quieter. While fixing my tooth last night I also found more metal wedged into the teeth. Which now has me convinced that`s all my trouble and I should be able to compete this weekend. Good luck.
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Actually Larry, you would weld one pipe over both existing pipes and then put a Cobra or similar. Back in the day we used Skyways.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261847625640?lpid=82&chn=ps
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In the land of rain? We have always had to have them. But we are more likely to have fire than rain. Get one of the ones from the us suppliers and just make an adapter to fit. The older us models were stamped spark arrestor, but were never approved. That might be your best bet, since it bolts on.
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Since I made that post. My vintage ride for the weekend started knocking. No ****, this all happened in the last two hours. Beta TR33 which I last rode in October. I had cleaned the carb this weekend and started it after I made this post. Thought for sure it was the rod since it ain`t no Gasser. Look what I found.
I am hoping to ride this weekend as it was the two half washers holding the bearings in place. Talk about ironic!
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M92, SM198. Been repaired a few times. I`ve had it pushed into the corner for months. Our ITSA season opener is this weekend, so I needed to get it running. Not for me though, I would break it. It`s my buddy on the Bul that`s been beating David the last two weeks. Tell David thanks again for helping him out in Arizona. He tossed his bike pretty bad and it cartwheeled down the hill. Funny thing is his front axle was out for a clean!
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You are chasing your tail. When the bike is assembled that shaft has outside pressure and cannot move. I still think you have a piece of metal in your primary gear that came from the kick start pawl. I`ve seen this happen over and over. It sounds like a rod knock and it drives you crazy. You have to use a magnifiying glass some times to find it.
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I got this `73 Sammy Miller Highboy running today after being neglected for 21 years.
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You never remove the retaining bolt except during installation. It holds the kick start shaft in it`s proper location. Other than that it has been many years since I`ve done one. You did remove the shift shaft and clean and lube it while you are in there. You probably have to rotate the ks shaft a turn to get tension on the spring before you tighten the bolt.
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No a fellow competitor in our ITSA club. Speaking of which, next weekend starts our year and he will be there.
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The shelter hangs on the shed wall.
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Sounds like may the muffler is over packed or the tip is out of place. Just take the muffler off and ride it.
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Nice, the 27 days it took
Good Job.
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It would be hard to do a flywheel weight as the rotor is on the outside cover.
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For you TY80 fans. A TY80 with an adult rider (over 200 lbs) finished both days of the Texas National riding the vintage class. Eight mile loop of very steep terrain. Sunday he cleaned my section that I was scoring twice!
Forgot to mention, his minder was also on a TY80!!!
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Beta`s leak from the point behind the kick start shaft.
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The broken pieces travel to the primary gear on the clutch. They become smashed between the teeth and sound like a rod knocking. It can be very hard to find. Try using a magnifying glass, and go tooth by tooth.
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Actually the new cylinder has more room than the older pro`s. A thin wall socket does the job, or higher end wrenches usually are thinner than what most home mechanics have on hand. I do not think you need a top end. Try changing your jetting (Too lean on the pilot) and higher octane fuel. I`ve never hadto cut a nut off a trials cylinder. (And I`ve worked on a few bad ones) I hope the stud comes out clean. Good luck!.
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You need to make sure that the throttle is closing all the way. After that check for air leaks.
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There are many things that could be the problem. Plugged mid-pipe, bad mains, stator, coil or just a worn top end. My older Beta`s always ran fine. But I had a 2003 like this that I never figured out, and last year a 2006 that had a very poor amount of power. Both were 250`s.
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http://www.trialspartsusa.com/how-to-order.htmlRead all the way down to the bottom. This is the USA parts warehouse. They have almost any part.
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The idea came from a male nurse in Albuquerque New Mexico.(That`s why gauze is used.) The original filters were made in the back room at the Yamaha shop I worked at. A mechanic at Bobby J`s Yamaha made the first pleating machine. I bought my first one in 1972 for my JT1. After several Years, K&N Yamaha out of Tulsa bought the rights, and that`s where the name came from.
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007 gave very good advice. You might also try to back off the push rod or totally remove it. Use a Phillips to pump it. That gives it a complete full stroke. I also prefer a 3 foot clear hose, routed straight up. It works better than any method you can buy.
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The funny thing Is Billy, you would not believe who or where K&N came from. Ha! Ha!
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Trials handle bars are almost straight, sounds like you have the wrong bars.
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