Nishijin

Dibs, then

Did I miss a big blow-up over there?

Easy way to find out is pump them up ‘hard’ and leave them for as long as you can tolerate. There’s a risk (if improperly stored) of cracking, maybe the valve leaks now. I’d just pump them up and leave them hanging. If they are still pumped hard a day later it’s okay for emergencies. If they hold air for a week then it would be worth using.

Just like to bump this thread to see if anyone can help with it!

I have personal experience of even E5 making rubber parts brittle. I even had a fuel filter snap in my hand because the plastic went hard with the hose. Fuel hose that is not E10 resistant will still degrade with E5, but slower. E10 will damage soft components. I would not touch E5, if there was a choice of ethanol-free. No pump that I know of is ethanol-free, it is E5 high octane, or E10 regular.

I have got into the habit of just lifting the magnet gently by thumb, while practicing in the ditch near the house. However like you have said, I prefer having the button as well, I am not sure how long the lanyard magnet will stay stuck for, hopefully longer than yours!

Sorry, I was out all day on the green lanes! Why not splice the push button onto the lanyard? You can always redo or undo whatever you’ve done.

It won’t work because the kill button is not “always closed”, it is “always open”. What that means is, when you press the button it closes a circuit causing the short and the bike to stall. if you put the lanyard in series, on one wire only, it means that you need to press the button AND pull the lanyard to kill the engine. Take one wire from the lanyard and splice to the brown. Take the other wire from the lanyard and splice to the black … like in the photos of mine. Use bullet connectors or solder them, whatever you wish.

Sounded like you are trying to attach the switch in series (cutting only one cable) and not in parallel.

Here we go, photos. ‘As close as possible’ was in terms of the length of the lanyard cabling.

On my ‘16 Sherco I fitted the lanyard killswitch and left the pushbutton in place. As close to the loom as possible I cut the wiring and attached bullet connectors. Then, I ran the lanyard wires parallel to the pushbutton. In layman’s terms I just attached both (both positive/both negative) into the same bullet connector.

Ftfy

I drove 8 miles each way to watch a trial back a few months ago, on my ‘16 ST300, and swore off ever driving it down the road again.

Eggs sucking here… on the outside of the carb, are you definitely turning the air/fuel screw in the right direction? Sometimes people forget which side of the carb the screw is on and what it means. You might be adding air/reducing fuel when you think you are adding fuel/reducing air. Mine was running so rich it would foul the plug and bog out. Even leaned out a bit, it has that black plug. I’d turn your air-fuel mix all the way in, counting how many turns you had it at, then report back.

For reference, my ‘16 ST300 plug looks more like this. I need to pull it and check it again soon, this photo was a while ago. Of course, mine is on the ‘too rich’ side, or else I have massive carbon deposits in the cylinder somewhere. Once warm I don’t get any noticeable smoke out the exhaust.

I didn’t even manage to watch it on Jitsie this weekend. Still need to catch up on the footage.

Thanks for the clarification

How did the Mechanix gloves get you in trouble? Too much grip, or not enough?

You may be waiting quite a while for any sign of prices dropping

Like so

Agreed. If you have a dremel handy (if not, check Lidl/Aldi this week) you can mark and cut the outer and with some finesse, leave the inner intact. Alternatively grab a ‘cable repair kit’ set like Oxford sell. You cut the old cable out, ideally at the throttle end. Fit the new (repair) inner cable, and cut some cm’s longer than the original. Then you attach a barrel end to the throttle side, and with the adjusters, work out how much slack you want before cutting (and ideally soldering) the excess. The second option is what I did with my Sherco, as I didn’t like the look of this kink in the outer when I bought the bike used. I actually cut a whole length of bicycle brake outer, added ends and fitted a new cable. It was cheaper than purchasing as I had all the parts laying around.

Really? Looks quite shark-toothed to me. Not saying it wouldn’t last a while yet, but on a scale I’d err closer to the ‘replace me’ end.

Sorry, I ride a Sherco

On a budget, the Acerbis is comfortable.

Modern bikes would need you to stop and clean the carb, swap a new air filter, and have two oil changes by mid-afternoon if you had events that long.