copemech

My take on this. They are obviously tuned to lower rpm torque and the head pipe and mid section act as something of an expansion chamber with the aft section as more a silencer with the glass packing. Back pressures fairly low with a decent size tip. You may find the perf tube grunged up or the glass blown out or totally packed up with oil. As many run too much oil or the wrong oil or never get the thing going enough to blow out the crap wich just accumulates untill it is just all bunged up. As with anything, there is only one real way to fix this, so either roll up your sleves or dig out the credit card.

Seen that did you? Fairly wicked awesome piece that is! I was actually a bit hesitant about posting that one up on here as a bit too deep for most. (bunch of athiests on here) "The chant of “Santos Espiritos” leads the song's chorus, meaning “A cry out to god,” " Did you spend a bit thenn ? I need to as well, not even gonna ask you to rip me a few MP3's and send them to ME @ verizon.net as this would be wrong!

New pads can be soft from the outgo and require thermal cycling to firm up. Best to do a couple three hard stops from speed trhen let cool to resume normal activity, then re-do as neccessary. After a few cycles, do the same and douse the hot rotor with water to steam it off. Possibly again, yet do not overheat them trying to quicken this process as you will ruin the pads and must start over.

If the bike has been ridden hard in the past, it may have some warped clutch plates. There is allways a bit of clutch drag even on a new bike, but it should not creep forward on its own with the clutch pulled in, possibly a slight drop in idle speed when placed into gear. Fresh oil in the box is usually best, and a light oil like Dex ATF does work, yet if the lever adjustment and pressure feel ok through its stroke, I doubt the issue is related to the hydroulic side and I would consider slight movement in the basket normal mechanically, the plates may not be able to separate properly if there is any warpage.

Mine is 5-6 years on now and still fine, Yet at the same time I say that, I seen a kid on a new 125 that was noisey, as he rides the crap out of it on a daily basis and such. There is a central separator plate on the muff located by the weld spots that separates the two chambers.

Do search around for decent quality, as the really cheap ones are just that! The ones common here are made ny EZ-UP and the also make commercial grade ones that obviously cost more. Fact is, any of them may be destroyed if the wind kicks up and the thing goes tumbling. Proper tie down anchors are important! I have seen cars pulled up along each side and eash corner strapped to the car, yep that works!

An obvious follower! K D Lang? Wonderfull voice, no wonder Roy liked her.

Which brings me to a great rendition!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UAOxCqSxRD0 Brighten Ham's day possibly! Song has been around fo awile, yet I cannot recall seeing the video till I went looking for the song. The words "Steamy and Sultry" come to mind. Good one for the mood music! I find this SOO Roy Orbison!

Doubtfull this will ever work as there is nothing much to attach it to. At best it will look like a bulls ass sewn up with a logchain. Parts are available in the US through your local dealer or ShercoUSA, or RYPUSA in KY, I would expect a new muffler to be around $250 ish. Do a search or if you need more doo tell. 800-607-8742 life is good! Prolly 2 days away from you via UPS. It takes a lot of work and Tig welding precision to cut the welds and go back as original. Cost prohibitive. Yes I suppose if one had some basic skills, one could cut out the backsides of the two chambers and properly re- pack with steel wool and glass packing, Fabricate proper closure plates that overlap the holes cut and rivit them on using high temp sealer to seal them off. It has been done. Pick your poison! Cheers,

Thanks for the update! That fixes that!

I have seen them beaten back into shape with a hammer after a bashing on the rocks to finish a trial. I honestly doubt 3-4 mm makes much difference as the chain moves along.

Velcome, ha!

If you put 12V dc to it and nothing, then I would say it is indeed dead.

Never had much a problem with them, yet I suppose if one got energetic he could install a couple them grub screws like the put on the ali foot pegs.

5mm id is pretty standard for most trials bikes.

It even states it is not suitable for dat to day road usage, thus not suitable for a trials bike. You may smell good but your plugged bung may get you in the end!

Couple things to note here, I ran into a bowl vent problem early on when installing a Kiehin on my '07 Sherco due to the proximity to the exhaust, the hose pinched off. As the basic carb body casting has a provision on the opposite side not used, it is easy enough to drill out that port ti use dual vent tubes ala dellorto. Yet I still run short tubes to prevent trapped fuel in them. The issue is the same on the OKO carb I am currently running, yet it has no provision on the left side for a second vent, However the basic carb casting on the right is like the K carb, so I drilled out the upper part and installed a verticle tube like on the Beta pic, blocking the horizontal one that gets jammed unless one removes the hose. just ran it up then down and kept it short trimmed to bottom of bowl so no fuel accumulation in it, this mod seemed to work fine for me. In a situ with more room to play, the carb could easily be modded to use the "T" on the one side like the one pictured, yet I would still prefer to loose the long drain hose as that is the culprit to begin with. I do not mind a bit of spatter directly on the motor.

19.5mm is the standard number as I recall. One must situ the carb at a 45 deg angle so the weight of the float does not compress the needle spring, but it is just shut. There was a good pic of this at one time, search if you need it.... Some(mysel included) cap off the overflow tube to prevent sloshing spillage. As this may not be officially recomendable to some, as if the float does stick it will flood the bike, yet to me that makes just like a dellorto!!!! I actually pulled the tube out the bowl and pounded in a ball bearing to seal the hole, makes bowl installation a breeze as well, as with the tube it is like a chinese puzzle to reassemble at times.(read, after beer) Do as you like, just saying.

45 pilot a good start in my mind, possibly larger

Should not normally whth the bike just running. This is an indication that the fuel level in the bowl is too high. Possible causes being float level set too high, float needle not sealing properly due to poor seal, swarf in the seal area. Getting a minor slosh when hopping the bike, bid downhill, or other jouncing is another thing and may likely happen. Prolly gotta start with a good clean and setting of things to insure they are correct.

Missed you at TTC!

Because my wife will not let me have more bikes. I still have the little Yamaha Serow 225 for street and trail. Lovely little bike but heavy, and the CV carb works well on it as well. I do not need FI!

Yea, that works better than long hoses, but they are still long enough to get fuel trapped in them like a bubble in a straw that will not move which can create a slightly negative bowl pressure. I would nip them, yet you must be the judge. You may also notice an accumulation o grunge at the opening of that hose arrangement. Need to insure they are ok inside.

Better yey, see if you can still locate a BP5EVX platinum, non resistor plug, the doggies dangler!