copemech

Quite honestly, I doubt you would like one, They can rip your arms off! Unless you are riding modern EXPERT line. For the average punter, the Beta 250 is like a sewing machine!

No, the spring rate should be quite lite, yet still positive and fully slam the slide shut on its own if all correct. Without the motor running, allways ck to insure you hear the slide hit home with a solid ckick after working on the bike and before starting it.. If your cable throttle or grip is dragging, fix it! Needs to be perfect! Abit of lite oil on the throttle tube to bar interface is recco. Clean and re lube on occasion.

You see the short green hose in the pic from chuckmorris, that is a short (crap)deflector hose attached to the bowl vent, although his is oriented oddly. The bowl vents need to breath, yet dirt accumulation and washing could let crap in, the short hose is just for that, a long hose can cause other issues. Both sides!

If it will only idle on choke, likely the pilot jet is still restricted with a bit o grit. Blow out may not remove this, as you need to unscrew the jet and possibly pass a fine wire through it to dislodge crap. You may never even see it, can be soo small. The fuel screw is the small one on thengine side, should be 3 or so turns out from full in, depending. Must be set per bike. Start over!

Leave the motor on Biff's kitchen table!

You will likely find the jumper harness available from Splatshop usefull. Inexpensive as well.

Obviously you are yet to make any Beater parts! Ha!

This is what I was referring to. It is a factory job. Presume by Kiehin! Not being a betafhile, I have no idea exactly when this was implemented.

I do not wish to sound "too" basic here, yet one never knows. On hard starting issues, start with checking your spark plug. Hard starting can be the first sign of one going, even though it may seem fine otherwise. I fixed a bike this weekend where someone had put a plug init at factory gap setting near .035 in, when set to a proper .025 it worked fine. Fresh plug costs little as compared to the LEG!

Which one? What I hear there was one at the Indy show done by an American developer.

NGK BP5ES

Not anything else to fit. Trick is to not let them get too grunged up.

I seen on a new Evo where they are runnine one verticle tube and one horizontal. The one goes up and the other goes down. The carb itself has been modded.

Typically they go rich when hopping and steep decents. I run the OKO at 21.5 float height, but not positive the K will do it. Same but not.

I think Andy was heading to TTC today! Friggin Scooby WRX in front if me for near 200 miles in Alabama! 2500 RPM and 25 lbs of boost at times. I think he got a bit nervous when I started drafting him with something 3500 kilos up his rear!

We will get you Big Johns personnal number for ref! Cheers

Welcome! There are riders up there!

Bikes allways have their cost, yet for a good $500 one can usually freshen things to a point to get a lot more out of her. Make thi thing work well, unless you are prepared to do a serious upgrage!

Tanks fit tight, arrangement is key, yet expansion due to alcohol laced fuel makes things worse as the tanks expand a bit. My tank has shrunk 7-8mm or so in length getting off the alcohol, at least for now. I also run SHORT deflector tubes on the Dellorto with good success in the past. About 1.5 inches long to keep crap out. Long tubes are not good or required. (in my opinion)

The purpose of those holes is to let fluid drain without completely removing the screw. In the installed position, they do not line up with anything, and are in the threaded part of the bowl.

You will not find reccos from the oil producers for running at the 80:1 ratio(trials specific) as race bikes at high rpm's do not run that mix. Trials is different unless you plan upon running down the road.

Whats wrong with your bike? Spiff it up or save the dosh for a new(er)one(Evo) . Nawt rong wit it!

Nice! Now tell him to swing those hips and get the rear to move where he wants it!

Not quite sure how that is done, yet the thought did occur to me that there could possiblybe a bit of roughness in the transition from the rebound spring to the top-out spring? Never really tried it that way with fork off.

Water in the carb bowl will cause this type thing as well, whether induced from the fuel or coming in the bowl vents when washing and such. A good regular cleaning is your best bet!