copemech

They go quite soft with a bit of heat so be careful, yet at the same time one can use that to make them fit very well with some manipulation of the areas around(not on) the screw holes and such. I think many leave the boot on the box and loosten the carb end as it is a bit easier to get to and manipulate back on. Your choice. Yes, make a bung plug to put in the filter hole, much easier that way!

Buy upon condition!

Never hurts to attend a local event just to watch the average punters having a ride. It is challenging and frustrating at times, like golf, but lots of fun if you like to ride a bit and do things without killing yourself! Just don't put feet down!

I seem to recall official testing on this subject done " back in the day" which revealed little to no real difference in heat dissapation. I doubt excess paint is good, yet the oxidation of bare metal is not either. If old paint were thick, I would strip and re-apply!

If you don't have the stuff, including proper micrometer or dial guage, best off taking to shop or you will be sorry!

One should never generalize! Poor taste!

Have YOU looked in the mirror Lately?

Best speak with the original owner for any info if you can. Otherwise it may need an inspection just to see where things are at. The "retard switch" on the bars only effects high rpm advance curve basically, and most riders cannot tell a difference, as this does not seem to effect base timing, yet base timing has a wide range of adjustment. Personally, I would remove it, but that is up to you. I have found that setting them back too far in an effort to settle the bike can do this. The good range is fairly narrow it seems, with 5-6mm rotation(counter, and roughly equate to degrees of timing BTDC) of the stator plate from factory settings being the maximum allowable without other ill effects such as this. The mid setting would be in the mid, at 3mm for example, and is where mine is now.

I'll call Glenn you come fetch you!

What do you want to set? Your mix screw will likely be at around three turns out from full in. Idle screw set to desired. Jets, 33-36 on the pilot, 115-120 main Needle somewhere in the mid. On a PHBL of course.

The bikes tend to run blubbery with too large a pilot, yet not bog when the throttle is cracked. Reed problems not common on the stock ones, but you could look at them, only four screws more. That carb being similar yet different than the PHBL, I would only chance to say that NO, one step on the pilot is not going to make a ton of difference in the running. Doubt I could run a 33 here on our fuel, as mine was up to a 38 on the PHBL prior to removal. A 33 would bog like that! Chris says they will run on the 33 so who am I to doubt it, yet I do know through the threads that several in the UK are now up to the 35-36 range on the PHBL carbs. Just how that might affect the VHST, I am not sure. All has to do with the fuel. Ck the rest still, as it is critical and can nip you in the rear. Better men than me have been bitten by this and you must not overlook anything. Cheers,

Billy probably typed in his own sentance into that rubblefish thing, then hit translate fron Scottish to English!

A 225 kit from RYP is about the same!!! Go for it!

OTF, I have retracted my original statement. I do think there was a bit of misunderstanding between Javier and Martin, and both share insight, yet if all these bikes are stored away, where are they? As agreed, time will tell. Now YOU, with your rude insinuations of what Martin thinks true and his "non roumour mongering" comments described by you as "totally unacceptable" is another thing. Americanizing it is even worse! Now myself? I bust nuts and bolts on iron on a daily basis(and leak a fair amoun o blood in the process), I am no politician, and quite frankly I could giv a crap less what you think of me. I will give you a real job if you want it! I am a friggin redneck if you want to Americanize that! And no, the FU was not against your sorry old ass, just a comment about the situation. Cheers,

Inspect for loss of spark when this occurs, along with things like proper fuel tank venting and proper flow to the carb.

I have not owned the VHST carb, yet hopefully I can give you some insight. From your description of bogging and hunting idle, it would suggest that you are running out of fuel or running lean. Dirt and/or water can do this. I suggest firstly you start over with the carb, plus insuring you fuel tank vent line and check valve are totally clean and unrestricted(not pinched by mudguard). Remove the carb carefully and break it over a clear glass or plastic bowl. Inspect what comes out closely looking for water accumulation in the bottom or grit as well. It only takes a couple drops of water to do this. Remove the pi;ot jet and the mix screw from the carb. Locate a fine wire that will actually pass through the pilot jet(one on side of baffle ring)as to insure there is no clear crystal sand bit init. Blow through passages using compereesd air if possible or brake cleaner or carby spray. You should have flow from the screw orfave up through the little holes in the bore of the carb. Ck main jet as well. Then put things back stock. 33 pilot should be ok. On your mix screw, it is on the engine side of things I believe, making it a fuel trim screw actually. So out is more fuel and in is less. I am not sure on that carb, but on the PHBL(similar) 2-3 turns out is common, possibly a bit more. You should be able to eat off the carb when done. I am qurious just what comes out the bowl under close inspection! Try those things, hope it helps! They will not tolerate any crap!

God knows! Seems many are going to this thing of even toutching one is a Five! What B*****ks! Guess they need an excuse to take marks on the riders!

Now put your toes between the(opposite) spokes of the front while sitting and you can rock the bike under you like a baby, hands free! Neat trick! Don't take long to pick it up either!

I wish they did have a lot of '04 315's stocked up and let them out for a song! It was a cracking bike if a bit lumpy! I would like to have one! Not a lot of them about in the US. Martin can tell us just how many. Oh, and I think he still recalls how to ride them! You should do that, Martin! Ride some on the SR tour and kick some butt!

Repacking Has been done using methods mentioned by folks that like to experiment, however a new one is perferred. One may soak it on petrol and flush it out good and use a wire brush to help. This is ok if the packing is still ok. Air dry it after!

Most thinge are HERE, although some torques are buried in the parts books. If you need specific help let us know!

Don't scratch it!

Yes it will, and I was just going to suggest that. Wonder if he knows where the timing is set, as many were set back to settle the bike a bit, but this tac come up specially is set back a bit too far!

Welcome!!!