copemech

Well, that is good to hear in a way, as I admit I was a bit hesitant about going there as I have never seen the stock reeds break, yet another lesson learned, but it must have taken some really hard water force to do it! Did you find the pieces? Pity, I have some stock reeds I could send you, but it would take a week or more for you to get them! Thank s for the update!

As stated, a well jetted dellorto PHBL is a workhorse and simple to keep. You could find a bit more power in a Kiehin that you really did not want!

I would just be sure the insurance is paid and set fire to the shed! That will fix both of them!

Well done Dust! Looking good! The only thing I can think of is to let dad have the cam at times to view some of that action of you, as perspective is lost on the big stuff it seems. Then put them together with a side view(real) and the helmet view. Just my thoughts, cheers,

Just is on a roll ain't he!

PM that other fellow Gaz,I never done um? Maybe splat Chris knows, he is pretty handy, worthha call!

Never seen a muff that plugged! Get a fresh plug. If the motor had sudden stoppage, flywheel key could have sheared. Just thoughts.

Quote from another recent thread, from me! Oh, I forgot to tell you the most important thing about a Sherco of your year. NEVER RIDE THE BIKE AFTER WASHING IT, NEVER! You got that! Washing the bike reguardless of how, you will wash water and dirt through the air filter and into the bottom of the airbox. At best this will wash down and chew up your motor eventually, at worst, the throttle will stick open from the dirt and you are fecked! I find it simpler to just pull the mudguard and air filter prior to washing, block the air hole or cover it(i have a special non porus foam plug cut to size) prior to washing. Otherwise you gotta do it anyway, then you got a wet filter and the box to clean out! Simplelz! You can pull the tank at the same time and get the rest without issue! At this point, just get a can of carby spray or brake cleaner and give the carb and slide a good spray. No dirt allowed! Drop the bowl nut and clean and dry the bowl as well as you had no previous problem with dirt in the jets this will likely suffice as long as you can eat off it when done! An air blower helps as well.

A jiccy rectifier can cause this.

Well that is good! Bottom line here, if it don't rattle much? RUN IT! They always say fresh rings make a difference in themselves. Seems you are still in there at .003, wear it out! One good thing about trials bikes is we do not generally have to worry about piston breakage due to fatigue.

I think Ham is pulling your middle finger a bit! Clutches can be a bit snatchy, specially for new rider. Bite point should be well off the knuckles, slide your index finger toward the end of lever more to give broader range of motion. Using the thicker 40wt oil in the box slows things a bit as well. Intentionally riding up a gear forces you to develop slippage and feel for traction, ride a section in 1-3 and see. 1st is always more jerkey! BTW, yes you are correct on the oil quantity assumption in the ratios! Oh, I forgot to tell you the most important thing about a Sherco of your year. NEVER RIDE THE BIKE AFTER WASHING IT, NEVER! You got that! Washing the bike reguardless of how, you will wash water and dirt through the air filter and into the bottom of the airbox. At best this will wash down and chew up your motor eventually, at worst, the throttle will stick open from the dirt and you are fecked! I find it simpler to just pull the mudguard and air filter prior to washing, block the air hole or cover it(i have a special non porus foam plug cut to size) prior to washing. Otherwise you gotta do it anyway, then you got a wet filter and the box to clean out! Simplelz! You can pull the tank at the same time and get the rest without issue! Duct tape! we shall discuss this later!

'06 shock aint worth rebuilding really, keep an eye out for a take off shock from later model, or email splatshop and others to see if they have anything about!

Couple things come to mind here, firstly, how long are you letting the bike sit? More than a couple weeks? The fuel laying in the bowl will go "off" as all the high aeromatice have evaporated through the vents on the carb. You need to sut the fuel off and run the bike till fuel depleded before storing. This becomes more critical to proper atomization in cold weather. Be sure the tap does work. Over a month or more, fuel in tank may be crap! Might suggest you drain the tank into a clean 2L pop bottle to ck for condensation(water) before use as well, as it will foul a clean carb after sitting! Alcohol in modern fuels does this sort of thing. Depending upon the carb, Dellorto choke jets can be a bit marginal in really cold weather. Many have had good luck enlargening them from the #60 jets. M2C

The majority run the bikes at 80:1 ratio of high quality full synthetic as long as you are not doing extended roadwork. Iff putting excessively you can go as high as 100:1, yet at all times it is best to occasionally give it a good run to get some heat in the thing and blow out excess grunge from the muff as not to clog things up. Excess oil is not neccessarily a good thing! There is a wealth of info HERE or you can go to the Sherco site that is pinned under service manuals at the top of the Sherco section. There are piccies in the Garage section of this site! High points of Sherco maintenance: I would say keep the rear shock linkage clean, inspected and overpacked with waterproof grease and replace worn components comes first. Ck and re grease the steering stem bearings for the same reasons. Stay off these items with the powerwasher as not to blow water in. Pull your wheel axle shafts ang grease them lightly to insure they do not corrode into place due to water entry! Same for the swingarm shaft! Folk that let these things go for years have problems! Go over rest of bike ckecking bolts, many such as engine bolts you may want to remove ant treat with anti-siexe compound so they do not ever get stuck due to corrosion over time. Things like this are simply an ounce of prevention!

Well, if one is able to interpolate all that mexican dribble, what I got was replace piston if over .00236 loose! Good luck, but getting back to my original guesswork, I cannot see running a piston in a water cooled motor at .003 or more if you have it apart, as the whole idea behind service limits is the fact that when you put it back together you kinda want it to last for a while, and not be at or above limits upon reassembly! Kinda defeats the purpose if you know what I mean, unless youm are selling used cars on ebay!

Natural Talent! Put it between the tapes!

Pic is nor great, but I would say first thing you should do is put the lid back on and go powerwash things to get rid of the dirt so you can pull the cyl! It does appear to have ali transfer from the piston, so you will likelt find the piston looks worse than the bore. New one is indicated here! The trick to using the muratic acid is to carefully aply it using an eye dropper or such only on the specific area and let eat away the ali a bit. A bit of agitation with the scotchbrite is good, then wipe with a paper towel and re-apply to let it work again. Takes patience! Gloves required! Rinse nearby! Hopefully you find no pitting in the plated surface, should be smooth running a fingernail accross with no snags when done. None of this is reccomended for amatures, yet it can be done!

Sounds like you may be onit! Clean it, tapee it, whatever, just keep it away!

This makes me wonder just how low the coolant was in this thing and how much came out on disassembly? If it did get hot and sieze a piston, it may well have scored a cyl a bit, yet this is not always the end of things, yet it may rattle a bit, maybe not? Time will tell. Hard to say without pics and more info, hope he is on the right track here. As in Jon's statement, but if the piston ali transfer is just stuck to the cyl wall, then there are ways to clean it up and the bore may be ok. A bit of cleanup work and a fresh piston and you are good to go! This is where you may require a first hand evaluation from someone experienced.

Lean the bike well over at a 45% angle with the bars propped on a stand of sorts to get all the old stuff out and you should be fine with the standard 450ml refill .

Welcome! There are a few folks near you and there are options depending upon taste. Feel free to chime in with questions! I seen this ad lately on the site, this SY 175 could be the bike for you, as the ad states it comes with the long ride seat setup! Near new! Just a thought for you!My link Cheers,

Rear spoke set (32) complete with nipples 16 spokes 214mm long by 3.5mm (fits trials bikes 2004 upwards) 16 spokes 222mm long by 3.5mm (fits trials bikes 2004 upwards) This is standard for many bikes including the sherco. It is likely you just need to center yours up Ones on the drive side are longer

You need fork booties! May have to call around cause I can't find them now!

Sweet!

Ok, I will guess here! Optimum sizing at .001-.0015 Doubt the give you a table of limits, yet in practicle terms, one could double that. If it's rattling, next size up and a decent light hone may fix it if the bore is ok, second option is a 2 size up and a professional fiting hone, Honing can be critical and it really takes a professional setup to do it correctly, be your own judge on this!