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Would tend to agree with Dave there, although I do not quite understand your post.
So it starts fine off cold with choke.
I would presume that you are able to turn choke off after initial start and the bike continues to run fine? Untill shut down and restarted?
If you(as example)are having to leave the choke on for it to run fine, that in itself is a problem.
Anyway, the carb should have a good cleaning, which means removing the jets and I usually recommend passing a fine wire through the pilot jet as they are difficult to see through. Clean the banjo screen as well, Blow air or carby spray then air through everything, should be able to eat off the thing when done! Clean means clean!
On the other hand, some may also tell the same as me, as when the weather is cold, one can putt about a bit, going round section to section, and never really develop a lot of heat in the motor. They will cool quickly while you are walking a section, then require a bit of choke on a restart.
Throw in a fresh plug too, if you have not!
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Well, the schedule is posted! Not bad as long as you are not coming from Cali!
Best 5 of 7 , so you only have to make two trips really, yet TTC is a Must! Should be good and hot by then as well!
AMA
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Why did you bleed it in the first place?
Your profile states Sherco 2.9, you posted this in the Gasser threads! Which is it?
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The standard 250 with a Dellorto is gentle and easy to ride.
If you throw the kiehin into the deal, you may well find someone willing to exchange the complete topends and carbs.
May be a good deal for both ends! Put up an ad in the classifides!
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There are a number of good dealers in the UK, what part are you in?
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Since it seems to be effecting all gears, my guess would be it took a hard lick to the lever and shaft and has damaged the ratchet mechanism on the end that drives the shift drum.
Easy enough fix, but requires disassembly of the clutch side.
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Aside from the browser issues, jost how many are the holdouts on XP now, if Andy is not? I only got the one at home on the Vista, rest at work are on the XP, Oh ,I did forget my l;aptop, which is also in Vists, no problems with it, bus seldome use it.
All point being, I need to buy a couple of moblie platforms to work whilst linked and driving vehicles, something small and portable like the netbooks, which I have tested and do work on XP, yet is seems the new ones are coming with some abbrieviated version of win 7, Not sure about that at all?
Size is everything at the moment it seems, and a bit bigger laptop is double the price, yet a big lug can be had more reasonable. Yet still on 7!
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I think one should stand in the yard and grab the nuts as they drive by!
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Reports seem to be the sidewals are not as resilient, so if running the rocks I would think a bit more pressure would be due! May cost you in the mud, though!
Point being, this technology may have better uses with a minder that adjusts your pressures on the section!
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Cool! New Bikey!
Well, I can only speak in general terms reguarding the new bikes, as I do not have one and have not ridden a 250 since last March/April timeframe, on the '10 model. Have not owned a 2.5 since '05.
As they have changed the engine castings on the '11 model, I am not even sure if the look the same on the stator side? Did you find your factory "tic" mark on the plate? Was it aligned with a ref mark or a casting web?
Seems typacally, the Sherco's do come with the timing set for optimum performance, and a bit on the edge, and I have always changed mine, usually out of neccessity on the 2.9's.
Having done the basic math, I can tell you in simple terms that 1mm of distance on the outer diameter of the stator roughly equates to 1 degree of timing change, and from my experimentation I set the limit at about 6mm before bad things start to happen. So you should be somewhere in the mid yet at about 4mm. A change of 1mm will tell no difference, takes about 2 to make any noticable change in performance. My happy spot now is 3! Bike is still quicker than me!
Jetting and fuels seem to differ a bit accross the pond, yet the intake tracts on the new ones differ as well and I am not sure just how much this effects things with the dellorto.
Again, I always had to change things. My '07 came with a 30 pilot and would not lift the front wheel off idle it was soo weak. Last setting was at 38 before I changed to the Oko.
I just think they run better if you get the jet up into a more workable range of the fuel screw at about a "lean best idle" of about 2.0-2.5 turns out on the fuel screw, and yet without making them a bit lumpy at 1/16 (crack) of the throttle, as at that point you have gone a bit too far, so maybe try a 35-36 range I would think.
I set the idle to get a good idle when in gear, not too high, but not too low. My 2.9 will chug up the drive at the house in second with no throttle without stalling. I find little reason yours should not do the same.
I recommend the BP5EVX platinum ,non resistor plug if you can get them, scarce over here.
Seems proven you can take this plug a bit wider to .7mm range, as I still have the same one in since I got the '07, seems to give just a bit better (cleaner) pull off the bottom under heavy load. I would not go that gap with the resistor type irridium plug, yet the probably work ok at the .6 setting.
You will just have to play a bit with the tunings, keep us posted!
Now you can take this of the Gasser threads!
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Damit! See if you can lookup Shakira- Don't Bother on the u-tube!
Then catch a few of the others as well!
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Which is what duct tape is for!
We have the technology!
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I think she could crush your bike with her legs!
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I think there is a mod for the choke jet for starting off cold, Jon should chime in here at some point. Another thing is putting the bike in about 5th gear and rocking the bike back and forth a couple times to take the piston over the top to get just a bit of things circulating prior to kicking over cold. Not sure if the 250 pro has a Kiehin or dellorto.
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I would think you will like the 250. Good on you!
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I got fired on my first day as a male masseuse today.. Apparently the instruction 'finish off on her face' didn't mean what I thought it did.
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I do not think you are over reacting.I would recommend them to anyone riding, by the pair, as cheap insurance as well as added support. The width of the hinges takes a bit of adjustment though. They will Just cram in under my trials pants, work better with loose fitting jeans or enduro pants. Come down to near boot height. Just a good bang against the frame kills me othwewise! Ouch!
Big thing here is I also use a youth type shin guard with a good knee cup that goes on the outside and tucks into the front top of the boot which has saved me a few knee caps!!!!! (common plant point)
With boots, shin guards, the side rails and hinges and knee caps protected, can feel like Ironman if you take a fall---- with one exception, the bum!
I also have some lesser ones that just pull on, with just two straps, different mfg, and some much more expensive Donjoy ones of the rigid type, yet these have been the favs.
These are moderatly priced and I have had good luck with them.
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This is indeed a two sided topic! Agree with above posts.
Firstly, the bike itself would make little difference in your case, as the Mont 315 is fairly gentile and I found only the late years to be more perky, the weight of the bike makes little difference if the wheels are on the ground.
Yet a lighter bike can make a difference at the end or a long hard day.
125s are fun to ride, yet can take more working of the bike, including revving the crap out of them. The 200 Beta is a smooth operator and will pull most anything with some real torque off the bottom as compared.., not quite the mont though.
The knees being the issue, I have TWO sides that are not good! Braces offer cheap insurance to not overstressing them. I have three different levels, from cheap to expensive, all depends upon what I am doing really. I like them! Only real problem is wearing them ALL DAY, from morn to night, have to peel them off! Keep you warm in the winter too!
Your Dr may have recommends. I can send you mine if need be.
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Makes a great weekend! If you arrange a Sat night supper , he will teach you all evening too!
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If that was done, you would all be out!
Not sure just how all this works, but reportedly a separate function or "add on" to the site.
Possibly some just add a secondary, email addy which they never ck, but fact is on the few occasions I have put a query about an item, I cannot recall for sure if I ever got a response.
Maybe just slackers, or already sold? Or possibly they seen who it was from!
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Welcome!
What is that near? I am lost!
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On a positive note, I think the green and black things should be easy to hide in the woods when their riders get off to walk a section! I wonder if you can easily turn their fuel off without them noticing?
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Recent glance through the Lewisport site, I seen that the new design TRP shock for the Sherco '10/11 is now available in three spring windings for weights.
Now, I have not ckecked, but I would think that these new ones with the neccessary clearances for the newer bikes would retrofit the earlier model bikes, as such reports had it that the Ohlins shock went directly onto the '10 models.
Just wonder if anyone has tried them as yet?
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