copemech

No, and I am referring to what may be considered unusual testing, chugging along in high gear, and I do not recco you try it because it can hurt you!

Happy Chrimbo Billy! I just got ck to see if you are OK! Love you man!

So you have a Del PHBH flatslide on a 125 Beta? I had no ides they put them there. Is it a 26 of 28? Typacally the Del float arms are set level with the bowl surface when inverted. Cannot recall the actual measure. There was some setup hints and tips on the Splatshop Blog site or you might ring them.

I could be wrong but best I recall the 4rt is speced to idle at 1500 rpm. Some may set them down a tad. Seems keeping the caps charged up is the key, and they will chug along briefly, however the caps are quickly depleted then things stop!

Seems to me there would be a lot of sloshing going on in the float bowl over jumps, and this can not be all good for the stability of the fuel level. MX bikes must deal with as well, however on an off road bike tell me when the fuel is not sloshing? Seems the new Vertigo uses some complex mapping stratigy, and apparently a battery to stabilize the electrics!

That is of course correct, however we are talking much more complex systems. Still not sure wideband would work on 2T with the oil considerations, seems even soot can foul them in diesel applications.

Do not think an O2 sensor will work in a 2T due to oil contamination, nor would a mass airflow sensor. All the same, good fueling may be done using basic inputs and proper mapping for the motor as in the Montesa. Throttle position, manifold pressure,temp,baro, rpm are all that is required with a given fuel pressure. Closed loop does nothing for performance. Maintaining stoich is not ideal! They work, but on a Mont with no battery you gotta keep things spinning fast enough to keep the capacitor charged for electrical power or they flame out because of no battery!

Floats have no weight! That is why they float! Whomever has written this is a blithering idiot! I shall jump out of my truck holding a helium balloon just to demonstrate. You see what happened, nothing! The mass of the balloon, even though accelerated rapidly with a downward motion does not have enough mass to gain momentum through the air enough to disrupt its stability. And if you believe I am jumping out the truck to prove it, you too are an idiot!

There are 2489 topics in this forum asking just how to get a rim band to seal after one has dislodged it. You need to read them, ALL!

Better be sure that spoke count thing works out. New bikes have what, 32?

Merry Christmas all!

I know a bit about FI, and carbs. I am also a basic K.I.S.S. type. In trials application I find no need for the added complexity of FI. A good carb just works, and in my mind the Dellorto is the best $15 carb on the planet. Prolly won more events than anything when you add it up. Seems to me Ossa has done a lot of development to make things work in the 2T trials, although it has been a project of great proportion, reports are good on the running and many love them. I have not ridden one, but the vids look and sound right. Question here in the Ossa, mapping options to taste? In the Monts, yes there are or were, not sure now. I did a bit of test riding on the Monts a while back. They like to idle fast and such. Just to see how well the motor would chug along and recover, I clicked up to 4th or 5th and was rolling along at a decent clip. When the thing flamed out, it about threw me over the bars. It ain't no Bultaco! In the 4T range, the CV carbs as used on the Beta seems to work well. The 250 is a really smooth and progressive bike. No need for FI here. Add those carbs can be tweaked a bit. Although I admit I have sometimes not had good luck at recovering an old rotton neglected and contaminated CV carb to work well. All point being, if I could run, program, map, and diagnose a simple FI system on a trials bile that worked well, and on a simple laptof set that did not require a mass purchase of junk to do it, I may be more inclined to buy into a system that worked well. Till then, I will stick to the $15 option! Will work until I do not!

Nice bike, have some fun! Trials is what you make it, no pressure! You will learn a lot! Just ride! Hook up on the other forums and Merry Christmas!

Replace plug with NGK BP5ES gapped to 0.6mm and report back. Buy two, they are cheap!

You know it is sticky when the front wheel locks up!

You rang? Yes, happy Christmas to you too!

That is ok!

Oh the suspense! I am just thankful you did not bring up the tossing thing again!

My old ass can stop wherever it wants, and dab wherever it wants without some idiot sayng I did both at the same time! Life is good!

And this applies specially to a simple hose wash, as you will dround it! To be safer, pull mudguard and air filter, bung the filter hole with a closed cell foam block. Bung the exhaust outlet. Powerwash the hellofit! Check your mag side cover for trapping water as well. If water gets in and cannot escape, that is not good. Put a 2-3mm drain hole in the bottom of it, it just works!

He said MUD! If you live in AZ, you have never seen mud!

Ah yes, what day is it? Titles don't come across on my phone. Go away now, nothing here for you to see.

I just hope you don't get yourself into a quagmire here. I would put it on and try it. Ck the lengths as that could be why the dogbones aer different length.

A 2.9 does indeed require a bit of getting used to. They will put you on your ass in a heartbeat! This topic has come up many times over the years and I am considered the professor on the topic. You do not state the year of the bike, but basics prevail here. Slow throttle, helps, but I do not prefer them due to range of motion when needed. Reeds, yep, smooths the delivery, I prefer Boyeseens and they are not costly. I recommend an ignition timing reset of 4mm on the stator plate, as this smooths things across the board! Requires some tool, but a pro can do it in ten minuites! I thing going to a 9T front sprocket is just too much of a jump. As 1 tooth on the front = 4 teeth on the rear, add the 9T is really hard on the chain. If you just must change gearing to slow the bike, the 2T larger rear off a 125 will do the trick. Usually not required. Dependant upon year of bike and carb installed, the Dellorto 26 is usually easier to live with than the 28 Kiehin high perf carb. Being less finiky, you are actually opening a smaller hole with a given amount of throttle, so figure that out! Any of this may be easily changed back as you progress! So there you go, pick your poison, as you can tune that bike into a real DOG if needed!

Looks like you need Line-Away!