copemech

You got that right! To me, when one does that kind of stuff fur a living its not something I really want to jack with in my off time. A Dellorto is like an AK 47, it just works.

The small gear is inexpensive.

Don't know where you are located, what fuel you run, but insure fuel line is not up against the muffler, you might fit some heat pad between carb and muff as well. There is supposed to be heat reflective material on underside of rear fender as well. Long story made short, under certain conditions, high heat from exhaust may cause fuel vaporization in the float bowl or vaporlock. This may worsten using winter blend fuel in hot conditions, certain race gas or avgas blended for best atomization in cooler temps.

The forks for that year require 330cc of 5w oil each leg. The bottom screws go into the dampers inside on both. The air caps need to seal, try a new US o-ring if they will not. Trials bikes are softly sprung, front should be a non issue, rear might be better with a bit heavier spring but I do not know where to find one for that year, is it an Olle shock? You might contact Splatshop to inquire if the newer springs will interchange, but I will tell you better riders tan him have run that stock setup successfully at his weight without issue. I would back the preload down to where there is only 10mm or so travel with bike standing vertical (static sag). New shocks are better, but costly!

They do stick if not ridden!

See what comes out the float bowl, catch it in a clear plastic vial. Only takes a drop or two of water in the fuel to do this. Might ring splatshop Chris, I think manifolds could possibly be an issue, not sure on the year. Spray about the flywheel with carby spray lightly, that is once you are sure of pilot jet, as better than you have been fooled, trust that!

Dose he still have a crew of japs that follow him around with the laptop to change his mapping for the section via Bluetooth? Simple, right?

Sounds like you need to learn the bike! Before changing a lot of stuff! The bike works fine!

Tea, well, I have allways wanted to rip the heavy muffs off a proper 4T trials bike and put on a megaphone for proper effect! My old Honda 305 scrambler had nice straight pipes!

As stated by Shercoben, he can shag out a gasser in a year of so, not the most maintenance friendly bike, yet high performance. Coming off a 2.9, the 300 gasser will poke along gently, but can be way too much if you open the throttle, as a gasser 280 is more comparable to the 2.9. On a Sherco, I would recco a "12 bike on up, depending upon condition, and for sake of reliability I would consider a Beta Evo before the "G" word! Just saying,

The 200 is the way to go if you can find one. At 173cc or so, they have much better low end torque for an adult rider, making them easier to ride.

Do what he said, run the needle somewhere in the middle, try second groove down first. Run the fuel trim screw as lean as possible for smooth running, but a caution as they do become sensitive to 1/8 turn or so and change with altitude and temps on the day. The transition(to needle) circuit of this carb at 1/8 throttle or so is a weak point so do not expect perfection.

Sand it a bit with 1000 grit wet paper and then go over it with an electric heat gun. Works wonders.

That's not a good starter bike. Find a 200 or 250 something. Or a 125, depending upon your dirt experience level. They can work well.

If you can find a nice 200 iit may be just right for you!

Dependant upon rider and bike, the clutch may feel lighter , yet inconsistent. If so, the lighter ATF oil may help. Specially when you need a quick POP!

Are you sure? I was gonna send you 2 new Dunlops for a C note!

No No Billy, we are talking about my "12 bike here. The tires have not even started to rot yet!

100 to 1 will work if you are just putting about mostly. Harder running requires more oil and those mini things can be high revving! Seems most run at 80 to 1 or so, using good oil of full or semi synthetic spec.

Glenn, I have a couple of new Dunlop 803's that have been sitting if you need them. PM me.

Point taken, yet baro = altitude as far as that is concerned..Add in your ambient temps then you have your density altitude. Baro will vary approx. 1hg per 1000 ft or so in elevation and with changes in atmo pressures, temps less of a concern, but still a factor. Google up density altitude calculators and plug in the numbers to see the differences. Sort of ironic, was a couple years back about this time of year I was going to take out the aircraft, would not run at takeoff power.Cut out badly. Took me a bit to figure out this issue as it did run ok with carb heat applied. Not an ignition issue. Baro was really high at near 31 or more, with temps low at -3. Calculated atmo density was near 3000 ft below sea level. Planes are not built to run there! Yet they normally do still. Come to find out this carb was set a bit lean from factory overhaul by about 10%, but it took a trip to the factory flow bench to prove it, and a concerned operator. Point being, density and temps do make a difference, regardless of true altitude as that had not changed.

Only you would think of this. Now write us a nice paragraph of just how it pulses and throbs between your legs!

That I spelt it correctly! Actually it is somewhat exciting that they are self adjusting for variances in altitude, barometric pressure and I think temps, although not positive or to what extent. These basic inputs allow for modification of the base map profile and good running in even the most basic system. Now all that may not gain you a lot of more power at altitude, but is should at least insure consistent running! Below 1000 meters is should not be a great issue, but above that it can become one, along with the loss of power.

Yea, that is a strong point as they will compensate automatically!

Turn off motor!