copemech

What you are saying is the fact you seem to have tossed off all your easy options. OK, I will throw one at you, as you have not even checked for source voltage when running, try that on the yellow wire and if nothing is there then use the meter to ohm the continuity of the yellow wire circuit to the mag. To do this, disconnect the thing up top, then ohm to frame(earth). There should be continuity of a few ohms back down and through the source coil in the mag, and if not then you will need to find the break or isolate it to yhe coil itself. Capiche?

I think there are, but you would likely have better with with a call to someone up there. I could probably hook you up with a helpful individual if you need it, just let me know! My firs recco would be to go out, relax, have fun , relax, ask a lot of questions, relax, have fun, just go ride and meet a few folks. Trials is like golf, frustrating, but the rocks will win!

Some things just cannot be prepared for, but I have run the smaller YOUTH knee/shin guards for years that tuck into top of my boots and have a hard cover for patella which has saved me a few kneecaps on the rocks!

When I seen this I thought to myself, " do you really need it? do you think you are going to move that thing fast enough for the airflow across the cooler to make any difference?" Added weight and complexity with the garb hanging would not be worth anything to me on a trials bike, but whot do I know, all the Hondas and yams I have had over the last several decades ran fine without it, including running the p*** out of things. Non trials specific.

Fan runs on 12V DC. Ac output from magneto lighting coil(yellow) is connected to both a rectifier and a regulator(square and rectangular boxes) and if either is faulty fan will not run. If regulator is shorted out it will earth out the voltage. Then you have the thermo switch(which I suppose you have jumpered), and finally the fan motor must have a proper earth. Upon further thought I will place an addendum, as I believe the regulator can be temporarily disconnected from the system for testing, but only at idle as its job is basically to shunt off excess voltage to earth at revs, as the faster a mag spins the greater the voltage created. Output is limited at idle normally, but revving and excess voltage may not be good for things. Once warm, the bike should start and run at idle even with tank off. With thermo switch jumpered fan should run immediately if things are right.

Oh no! I have heard horrible things about tham bikes!

I am glad you understood just what I was trying to get across, as I had a couple pints by then! Junk that stuff and just get a standard kill button off Splatshop or someone. They have a two wire switch with a dedicated earth you can run back down to the frame, or the tethered kill switches are in fad as well, but a bit more costly. Oh, BTW, I am Mark C.

Does it sound like you stepped on a frog when you kill the motor? In this arrangement, all you would need is a kill button to earth red wire from coil. I do not understand the part about pressing two buttons? Unless perhaps the earth wire is connected non center, but reversed with one the others so two different button must be pressed to make to earth (series).

You may decide the stocker is a bit too rippy for you, as is why the Xblock starts off a bit slower. The 300 is tractable but a bit too much can put you on your ass quick! Xblock make an even softer one that has no ramp up.

What an awesome tank design man!!!! Looks like you are going with the new "Steam Punk" deco in the place, so you must be cool! Watch out for them spikey pegs man, they will rip your calf muscle out of your leg! Ones with the grub screws are not so aggressive but still work!

Well if a 250 it should be a standard dellorto carb. If it does flood while just sitting there I would suspect a float setting or float needle valve problem, nothing to do with a pump if it is not pumping! The carb works the same as with gravity flow, no difference.

That original smearing of the piston indicates a seizure or partial. Seems some type thermal event, owner would be the one to say why and when. Did it start rattling?

Let us clarify some terms here, such as when the lever is pulled the clutch is disenguaged and the bike does not go. When lever let out, clutch enguages and drives the bike. Are you stating that with lever pulled bike still pulls or clutch drags the bike a bit? A little bit of this residual drag is normal, specially when cold and oil is thick, making it difficult to shift gears from a stop. If it is dragging too much and still trying to pull the bike, clutch plates may be warped and not releasing properly(disenguaged)

Fab! Jesus man, at least tell what year the bike is!

remove swingarm and motor, take to a good tig welder. Tell him it is 4130 material. Not special in that sense.

Call Splatshop or email to see if they have any of them small inline fuel taps that were used on the earlier models that came without.

Dirt/ corrosion behind the boot on the master cylinder can also cause the brake to hold pressure as the piston cannot return fully regardless of lever free play. Cracking the line or bleeder will relieve the pressure if that is the case. Never use mineral oil or grease on brake pistons or seals as the rubber is different and not compatible and will quickly ruin.

Sounds like a sheared flywheel wooodruff key.

If it did shift up before your work, I would think you probly do not have the short lever in the kit properly engaged on the opposing part.

Chain is on the wrong side, sorry!

Anything is possible with a bike a few years on. You can dress a pig with new plastic. If you don't know the bike or seller, ask them to demonstrate to you that all is well with it and tell you the maintenance history. What are their qualifications? Even an ugly bike if well maintained should work perfectly with a good operator. Tires, wheels brakes, suspention, steering and linkage, filters, carb, chains and gears should all be covered. Any good rider knows all this and has good referances himself through this club or wotnot. I change my oil every three days will not suffice if the rest of the bike is a POS! If he cannot walk you through it, he dunno jack, and your money may be better spent with a local dealer of quality goods. May save you in the long run.

Oh Billy, you are soo funny! I have one them in my crank. I gotta ck it cause it leans a bit as well!

A hard Arkansas stone like used for knife sharpening will hit the high points and knock them down without effecting a large area like sandpaper. The need to fill the scratch with nail polish or anything else will depend upon just how deep the gouge extends below the surface.

Cannot think of why not! There may also be some Jitsie stuff out there, ch Splatshop website.