copemech

You will be COOL now! No rattleing piston! MC

Just make sure the bearings are not loose!

try Bob at B&J Racing - www.bjracing.com

Ish, Have you tried Mike Komer?

Some say that the Kehin carb is smoother and more controllable off the bottom yet provides more power on the top end. I have found that setting the timing to 2.0-2.5mm BTC smooths things out and makes it less prone to kickback and stalling. Setting the new ignition requires a bit of skill, some special tools like a timing light. A smart fellow that has the time(and nothing better to do) to figure it out needs to convert mmBTC to degrees of rotation(hello Wayne T.). My measurements (although not neccessarily accurate) reveal that the bikes do not run properly with timing reduced below about 1.75mm BTC and what this relates to in degrees of angle on the new ignition system I do not know as there is no timing pin hole and the timing light is the only way I know of for setting. It gets more critical the closer you get to TDC. MC

Our local vintage group uses bronze type medallions with a picture of a trials rider(actual photo) somehow embossed on the back. The front says (first) place(whatever class) vintage trials. They are really nice and I understand they are done by a trophy shop locally and you can put whatever photo you want on them. I understand the cost is about ten bucks(US) each. They also have a ribbon that you can wear around your neck while you are dancing naked in front of the spouse during celebration! For those luckey enough, you may fill your pockets with them so that everyone knows you have something worth seeing at the next trial!

PITY IT DOESN'T HAVE THE 225 ENGINE. (I NEED THE ELECTRIC STARTER)

Charlie, Stay out of mud, you will sink! Are these KITS to raise the fender or the fork brace? Two washers, thats about 3-4mm, not much help for the mud we have here, black clay. Maybe a motocross high fender mount would work! But then it would just bind against the forks! And YES Charile , they all do it! Cheers!

The stock bars seem to work well and are less expensive than the Renthals. You will have to modify or replace the top fork clamp to use tapered bars and it gets expensive. Beware the standard Renthal bars as they are shorter in height than the stock Domino(tomaselli) bars and make you ride a bit more bent over. I am the same height as you and found them uncomfortable. You can special order taller(5.5') Renthal bars but few dealers stock them. Call RYP for more info! Cheers!

While trimming the end of som Renthals, I noticed that the alloy was very hard and brittle. After cutting most the way around, I removed the cutoff with a SNAP. I did not think that even the 7075 alloy was that brittle and found that a bit scarey. Makes me wonder exactly what they are using. Too many reports of snapping without warning. Seems like most of the breakage reports are with the Renthals as well, both new and old as described by the folks here. For now,I am sticking with the stock Sherco/Domino bars. They have a thicker wall(require a different end plug) and WILL BEND as I have bent them before on my previous bike. If they get bent I will replace them immediately. I don't think they will snap off without prior damage, or at least I hope not. They are less expensive than the Renthals as well. I do not want to have one of the crossbars sticking into my chest after the bar breaks. It does make since that the tapered bars may be stronger than any as they are much larger in the mid section. As Wayne says, it takes some doing (and money) to modify the top clamps on the Sherco though. Has anyone broken the Sherco/Domino bars without prior damage history? MC

I was told by the US importer that the ignition timing was software adjustable for varying conditions and that there were about four standard timing curves and a custom template. Not sure exactly how it all works but you probably need the software and a laptop.

I heard it was 3 years in Europe and Ryan has the rights for 10 in the US.

Wayne, Asked Ryan some time ago, said he can't get them. Rode with Ron a couple weeks ago, told him to get some knee braces! M

I knew that I should hav said "English" instead of British. Now Ishy, SHUT UP and LISTEN! I'll try to put this in a language that you will understand! I want one! I may not ride worth a tinkers tinker, but I look REAL GOOD! Besides that, It matches my Sherco earring, Ipone tounge tickler, Michelin navel ring and titanium 2.9 dangler thru the wee willie! (perfect size). I'm not into tatoos, so I have to rely on other logos. You got to get with the TIMES man! It's old farts like you that give Trials a bad name! MC 2/2/58 PS- I got one of them Sherco earrings left if you want to start your boy off right!

Any of you Brits seen the crossbar pads for Sherco that are silver and have "PXC" or "PCX" Racing (or something similar) on them. I saw one on a special bike sent to the states for David Chaves, but they are not available here. Cheers!

Judging from my casual observations of my bike(different"S" make) They dont line up either and it doesn't matter. I have three ov them sitting in the garage and they are all the same. I have not taken accurate measurements as it would probably just p*** me off. Same with my rear fenders twisting to the right as you look from the rear. Heck, thats the way they are made. Even worse, the right peg on my new bike is about 5% forward inclined as compared to the left. Truth of the matter is, I dont even think the wheels track in line when the adjusters are set equally and rear tire centered in the swingarm. Its a design thing that you can't tell when riding. I have decided to drink a beer and forget about it! If any of you REALLY ANAL engineers figure it out, let me know! Cheers!

Thanks Chuck!

I think the Beta has more flywheel and torque(and 30-40 cc) and the Sherco is lighter and quicker! Cheers

a GOOD RIDER ON A 125/200 WILL BEAT A POORER RIDER ON A BIG BIKE EVERY TIME. Even the smaller displacement bikes will go over Very Big stuff. I believe it was Ray Peters who demo'ed the Sherco 125 on the champ lines at El Trial. I recently witnessed another similar example at the Central Regionals i believe, with the 125 four banger Scorpa clealing all the Master lines. Quite impressive. I do believe that better technique is required to make it happen! I also believe that the big bore bikes make you lazy in the sense that you learn to rely on power rather than skill. I also admit to being one of the lazy ones, unless I am taking the wifes 125 out for a bit of practice. I always seem to just have fun riding the wee bike and am amazed at what it will do if I have the guts to do it! I also admit to having ridden the 125 in a trial or two and it really get some folks attention when they get beat by a small bike. There is certainly no shame in competing on the smaller bikes, ask Ishy, who rode the SSDT on a 125. Don't feel bad if you get beat by a Chicken!

PS- A camera that uses rechargeable AA's is nice to have!

I recently purchased a FUJI S-5000 (3 meg). It has lots of features, priced accordingly at less than 400.00 US, feels great in the hand and has a (sports) mode automatic setting. It is compact enough to carry well on the trail in its padded bag that I use to protect it. Very good pics in natural light. Also has a really good zoom! As always, you need to plan ahead a bit for the digital delay or you may/ it will do a rapid fire (bracket)of shots and just delete the bad ones. I take most pics in 1 meg mode, look great on computer! Good pics are hard to get on any camera, part skill, part camera, part luck! Ask Andy I need to post a few so you Brits can see some TEXAS trials! Cheers!

In keeping with the theme, I had a girlfriend once that had a uinbrow. Her head movements were similar at times as well. Darned if she too did'nt p*** all over the place when the back end was raised higher than the front. Think that's why I got rid o'her.

Wayne brings up another point, if you set your tire pressure before riding the bike to 4psi, you may find that it increases signifigantly after riding and the tire warms up. I have seen changes of as much as 1 and 1/2 psi which can totally change the tires ability to get a bite after a few minutes on the loop. Because of this, I started setting cold at 3psi and checking it after riding a bit, especilaay in cooler weather. Of course you will have to adjust up for rocky terrain! Cheers

then add a 135lb Beta 80!

put the heel of your feet down for traction. Don't ask why it works!