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I would agree you need to fix this NOW reguardless!
Clutch Basket Nut 45 lb/ft (60 n/m) so without a hub holder you need to mark the shaft and nut and put it back to where it was or slightly beyond and do not overtorque! Get someone to do it if you cannot!
Yes, be a good boy and drain the coolant so it does not go all in the motor when you remove the side case! The gearbox iol will stay in if the bike is leaned on the left side, but if you have not changed it????? good time to do it!
Find that piece of spring!
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Ride the Sherco in second gear, be fine!
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Don't think a short lateral torsion rod would work if that is what you are asking. The bearings may be possible!
I did hear they found a metal with enough memory in that alien crash at Area 51 in NM a few decades back, not sure about the rates?
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And you originally stated the lever had no resistance?
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Think I recall Splatshop Chris telling the top rose joint bushings are thicker on the new frame bike, thus may require changing. Other than that it should work.
Contact him for details of send to him for a service prior to install would be a good idea.
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Sounds like a good find, and indeed plausable. Seems you found no other external leaks, or entry to gearbox oil.
put up a pic if you can
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As I recall, it could, as there are are passages from the case to cylinder. Never heard of leaks though. Casting cracks in head would be extremely rare as well I would think.
Leaks to head area would generally push fluid out the rad as the compression pressures are greater than the coolant pressures.
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If you are building no pressure, have fluid and the slave is not leaking, I would go with a Master cyl kit!
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What year is it?
Send it to Splatshop Chris for evaluation, still likely cheaper than a new one.
ps- Bad on you for neglecting linkage that long!!!!!!
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I had a look on the Splatshop site and they do offer a cable end with a 70 degree bend. I still have the HD inlet hose if you have not ordered the Sherco one.
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If you do have broken teeth, do not ride the bike, and find the small bits before they get into the tranny gears, as bad things happen!
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These are an extremely tight fit(cram), and a downside of this carb. I think I recall having to rotate the neck so the cable runs more up the left side frame rail rather than center of tank. I know I had to do that on my '07. Rotate the carb in its mount a bit if needed.
I believe a 90 is available, not tried one.
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Sometimes you can get a front tire that is tight on the bead and it does not want to pop on or it slips off. In this case you may want to consider taking it to the local tire shop where they actually have some proper liquid tire mounting lube which you apply with a swab or brush. Deflate the tube , use the lube liberally then blow up the tube till it pops on fully. You may even want to leave it inflated to 30 or so overnight to insure it takes. I have seen some tough ones, and wd40 and such just won't work on these. There is something abour REAL tire lube that is slick as gorilla snot and it just works!
ps- Zipper is easily confused, he means well!
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Just go get Zippy's old bike. He would probably pay you to come get it!
He needs a 300 Gasser like BAD! Still cannot figure why? Guess he wants more shed time working on it!
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One might notice I did not ask for an "02 280 Pro! I have ridden that bike and I know you want rid of me as quickly as possible!
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Good luck with that! They may still be available new.
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Jon, I am in a pickle! Waited all year and was hoping to go up for Octobertest! Sold my bike last weekend and now it looks like I may not have another untill the weekend of the trial.
I may need to borrow the TY so I can trash the SR Novice class!
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You know what :moon: :moon: is?
It's a whole hand full of these!
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Well, it has happened, now i got ads for penile extension on the TC forums!
It states at the bottom of the advert that if you don't want this you might consider becoming a TC suporter!
Me thunk me wus! :moon: :moon:
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Ok, here are a couple suggestions for you.
In tight section requireing good control of clutch, #1- slide index finger out on lever to give wider range of application(your lrvers need to be set in properly to do this)
2- Ride the section in second gear or even third- this forces you to slip the clutch to feel for traction and increases the load on the clutch to make the bike react a bit less quick. Try this on a slick grass covered knob from standstill to get a feel for things and you will see.
3- yes, smoothing out the basket and polishing the plates as per the beta clutch mod cannot help but improve things. Takes some time and effort
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Update! Deleted Ham2's reputation files, now it all works fine!
Na, Mine works fine at home, but if I pull up the forums page at work it can take minutes to load!
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Doug,
I yoouuu were on Smages bike it was prob a 300!
Sold the '07 today. Found a decent "12 Pussycat!
Come to Daddy!
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Because there is no right(correct) way!
At least the Beater riders can hold the rear brake on a hill while trying desperately to get them to start!
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