jimmyl

Mine have had a lot more abuse than this and are fine. very strange?? do you dry them naturally?

Had mine nearly a 12 month and looking good at the moment. What do you do to them in between trials -wash, treat etc. Do you jet wash. Do you do anything unusual when riding - drag your toes on the road etc? Are you related to the Thorpe's and move more earth walking the sections than 3 JCBs? (PS watched a good South Yorks Clubman? rider in last weekends S3 Powys move rocks in way that would of made D T senior very proud) I like my SIDI so want to avoid anything that may cause this problem

I grade my rears and change them accordingky old ones for practice., good used for club trials and best for championships and nationals ii also select tyre for event. No point using best tyre on rocky or grippy terrain . front will last a good year would say and 2 rears if you manage them even riding every week.

Top man much appreciated You will have to reveal who you are !! cheers jimmy

If you find that the bike is missing from not letting it warm up properly don't try and rev and clean it out like a 2 stroke- this makes it worse. just park it up running on tick over and it will sort itself out after 5 mins or by the time you walk the first section.

Do you fancy sharing cad files and some photos when it's done. i have sone facilities at my disposal and would at least like to do similar - might have to sun out the welding. stick designs on eBay even ?? swap you for a 2d cad file for a 4rt bash plate I did !!?!?

The garden suppliers do labels for writing plant info on etc - they do these in various lengths and colours now so easy and quite durable. If painting markers useful to do front and back otherwise when you turn round after walking a section everything is white or if you are dong loops in can be quite confusing.

Or look at the diagram - especially as I've left my oscilloscope next to my flux capacitor

on line manual shows (http://www.montesa4rt.nl/) HEADLIGHT = 12V 35/35W Also from the manual Regulator type SCR shorted/triple phase, full wave rectification -so basically the AC is being converted to DC Looking at all the other power drains on the road going bike would suggest there is a fair bit of capacity in the system

Yes It can cope with high pressure but gives good frictional properties reference organic friction material to give smooth take up in clutch packs.

Have you looked inside an automatic gearbox multiple wet clutches with friction material similar to that used on multiplate trials clutches and numerous epicilic gear sets doing much more work than a straight cut trials dog shift box with minimal hp

I fitted one of these to my mates bike - he bought it from the much missed Munch -I was impressed by the fit and finish of it. Its not done much work since definitely one to consider.

My bad. You are correct. i think you can disconnect on handlebars for a quick check

I had problem with std kill button - just jesting it's not from mr Honda and European spec . i think you can just unplug the cable and link the the bullet terminals together .

I find myself crouching on some big climbs with the bike spinning. helps keep c of g low so front wheel less likely to lift but keeping weight over back end. might just be a 4rt technique. Anyways need to keep weight over back wheel for traction. if front wheel lifts then was throttle/lean forward slightly and or slip clutch. needs practice I think!!

Had this once under similar conditions on a trailer and linked out kill button and job was a good un. non Honda part no doubt??

I've been looking for one for ages but never found one. (nothing on acrebis web site) I'm sure there is a market for somebody to make ally ones as there are shelters available at reasonable prices or you can make a shelter easy enough -the inner tank is a bit more technical !!

have a mitani on mine -2nd bike its been on and I bought first bike second hand so probably 6 years hard use - still spot on - needs tweaking back now and again but top product.

Would say neglible but don't know for sure to be honest don't think it matters

Have you the original friction plates in as later bikes have got better. Also earlier bikes had smaller master Cyl - the 315 mont master cyl was a good mod to make clutch better on earlier bikes without the risk of the clutch slipping

Have you tried all the original springs back in with the new plates. What year bike have you? Cant quite remember set up but can you put washers on the bolts to allow them to be tight but with less compression. I run std plates / std springs / atf oil on a 2015 and clutch seems fine to me.

I'm sure if you have twin map software there is a page or option at the bottom to download to map 1, map, 2 or both. (page 23 in the manual) TH map mode select • When select Mode1 & Mode2, map change will be reflected in both Mode1 and Mode2. • When select Mode1, map change will be reflected in Mode1. Mode2 map stays base map. • When select Mode2, map change will be reflected in Mode2. Mode1 map stays base map. Ignition map mode select • When select Mode1 & Mode2, map change will be reflected in both Mode1 and Mode2. • When select Mode1, map change will be reflected in Mode1. Mode2 map stays base map. • When select Mode2, map change will be reflected in Mode2. Mode1 map stays base map. http://www.montesa4rt.nl/ if you haven't got a manual -the Tl260 software seems better than the earlier versions

Very true . Still waiting to be convinced the lack of engine braking is not just smoke and mirrors rather than a clever valve on the crankcase but there is a difference in the 260's Mine is crankcase is vented to atmosphere as are most 4ts. I have also run alternative ptb and maps so maybe the electronic solution must be embedded somewhere other than ptb but not sure where or how. as they used to say on x files - the answer is out there??

The latest software and leads are USB I believe. you can change either map but only upload the last one unless this has changed on latest software .

don't know for definite but would imagine same. Have you tried to communicate with the PTB on RR. The earlier software needed to run on old computer/laptop a (32bit??) also used serial port not USB. You can upload the map from the PTB without erasing it so plug in see. I believe you can only read the last map that was installed - so for twin map you will only get last one back out regardless of the switch setting