lemur

If all else fails; see if the casting will take aluminum weld, fill the holes with weld, drill new holes and tap them to the standard size.

Biggest difference other then cost: HeliCoil is a coil spring and will not provide a watertight repair at the threads. TimeSert sells a threaded insert and threads can be made to seal water pressure if you end up drilling into the water jacket. Using a drill press to start the tap straight into the clearance hole is a good practice. The manufacturers catalogue will detail the size of the clearance hole required.

Did it come with a white or a black throttle (fast or slow). imo That makes a huge difference to the engine response for very little cost.

Fish Glue would still work far better, a tube needs some form of rim lock. ... but lemur, why use fish glue and not something else? <- because you can reactivate it any time by adding water 🤓

How long was it in the ocean?

You're not going to believe this but Fish Glue I use it in winter tires that are full of screws and sidewall splits, it's water soluble and non toxic for easy cleanup. Not expensive and available from stores that cater to woodworking.

Biggest difference to some people is the kick starter on the opposite side.

That's why there are so many burn marks on the inside right leg of all my riding pants, there is raw flame going through that little single walled header pipe.

Is it ownership registered? Nobody can guess at the value when we don't even know what country the bike is in, are we shopping in euros, US$ or loonies? That looks to be about a 3200 loonie motorcycle here in Canada which might mean nothing depending on where you live. Less value if it can not be plated for off-road use because that would make it ridable only on private land and in closed course competition events. ymmv

Whisky throttle is when you experience a brief disconnect between your brain and your physical dexterity. I can tell you're not addicted to the sport yet, but once you do become comfortable with the controls and start moving with your machine instead of just using it to haul you around like a wagon, then you will become addicted to riding trials bikes. What they didn't tell you at the dealership is; you didn't just buy some vehicle to transport you over terrain so rough that it could kill a horse, you bought an exercise machine that requires riding every chance you get until you get really good with it. Master the controls first and learn to read the terrain, learn to move your body in harmony with the motorcycle while practicing the technique' of doing wheelies, splats, zaps, hops and all those other neat tricks. The motorcycle does not make it easy, it only makes it possible and about 4 days or more per week is usually required to notice a marked improvement in your riding skills and physical endurance, much less than 2 days per week riding will have you regressing in skills and physical conditioning just as it would happen with any other strenuous exercise regime.

Sweet bike! From here the fuel tank and possibly even the frame looks like it came straight off an AJS Stormer.

Trouble-shooting and always having replacement parts on hand is the biggest reason to buy trials bikes in pairs, nothing beats having a second bike of the same model and swapping entire assemblies until you locate the problem, especially when a carburetor, throttle body or CDI module is in question. ... any friends that own the same model bike? That can work too.

I concur with the above post, you likely need to ride the foot pegs far more and the handlebars far less. Infinitely better to assist if we could see what you are doing wrong but just a guess: The number one new to trials rider issue is not bending your knees anywhere near enough because doing so moves your body weight off the bars and lowers your weight onto the pegs where it is needed. I find it beneficial to keep my right foot forward on the peg where I can retain control over the rear brake at all times and I shift my left foot further back riding on the ball of my foot, the staggered stance offers better front to rear balance control. Setup of the lever and bar position is critical to keeping only your index fingers on the control levers at all times and that will help you to control everything that needs to happen when you are popping a wheelie or riding a cat walk. (cat walk is the term I use to describe a sustained wheelie or when you ride only the rear wheel like a unicycle.) A taller gear selection and using front to rear balance point control instead of the engine power will address the over-rev issue.

Absolutely time to revisit the carburetor and if this is a carburetor where you can put the slide in rotated 180 degrees from where it should be, that is very likely the problem. Should take all of 5 minutes to check that.

Get compression test done? 🤔 It's a 2-stroke, pull the spark plug, remove the kill switch magnet so you don't get a shock, plug the spark plug hole with your finger or thumb and turn the engine over slowly. Spark is useless if it happens at the wrong time, once you know it has compression check your ignition timing or you can't rule out ignition as being the issue. What is the recent history of the bike, is it fresh out of storage or was it running and then failed?

Something tells me when the carburetor acts up you will know why the spring is in there.

Trouble-shooting section of the service manual will give you all the same questions we could possibly ask.

The job of the emulsion tube is to initiate the process of atomizing liquid fuel (and pre-mix lubricant) into the air intake stream, this is the part that makes your float level critical, the top half of the emulsion tube is to remain above the float bowl fuel level and the bottom half of that tube is submerged, emulsion tube is where air bubbles are introduced into the upward fuel flow, iIt will typically have a series of carefully placed tiny holes in the sides of a brass tube to introduce the air and those are the passages most likely to become plugged. If the emulsion tube does not work you get raw fuel or no fuel getting dumped into the carburetor instead of a fine mist spray. The whole assembly is similar to a fly sprayer or a perfume spray bottle or the nozzle on a can of spray paint fed by a toilet tank float valve.

Spring pre-load depends on your rider weight and shock absorption settings are dependent on how lively you want your suspension to react. User adjustable factory settings are normally set to the mid point of the overall operating range so the owner can adjust in either direction to suit the individuals needs. We could probably tell more by watching you ride if your suspension is close, otherwise at this point we don't know how much you weigh, we don't know if the spring rates are stock original, or if your 26 year old fork spring is bagged out. The manual will tell you the minimum service length of the front fork spring to determine when it needs replacement (chapter 2 page 3) , that's where I would start. As a lightweight rider I would normally need to lower the rear spring pre-load and keep shock dampening settings on the low side so that my suspension is more lively, springy, bouncy etc. First question would be are you a light-weight, mid-weight or ample-weight rider. Then I would watch you ride over a log or concrete block a few dozen times to experiment with altered adjustments. Hope that helps some 👍

It says part #27 is the Emulsor for the needle jet. That's the part that will need the most attention.

"almost 2 rounds out" <- sounds much closer to a conventional carburetor setting 👍 if it works there leave it. Pretty sure the low speed adjuster screw on a Dellorto controls fuel and on most other carbs it controls air so you might find adjustment alters the engine opposite to what you might expect. I think as you turn the screw out you are enriching the fuel mixture on a Dellorto. What do they label part #27 & part # 30 on your diagram? Those look more like the emulsion tube that I refer to as being most critical to clean after being subjected to fuel evaporation. Variations on the name 'emulsion tube' are atomizer or pulverizer tube depending on the documentations original language.

So are you 🤣

Poor mans bleed tool:

From what I've seen on my 2021 and 2023 bike, a rubber band or o-ring might even last longer. imo the springs need to become available individually or it's impractical to own them. That's what I will be telling my dealer and ya'll that own one should consider doing the same.

I think the problem is you don't realize how frequently the motorcycle carburetor needs service and once you start breaking parts inside there you are looking at replacement parts or a new carburetor. No it won't matter if the carb is dry or full when you leave it sit because all of the fuel will evaporate out anyway since the float bowl is vented to the atmosphere. There are no 'extra springs' in a carburetor that can be left out without impacting performance. Running more oil in the fuel then called for will result in additional unburnt oil residue clogging up your exhaust system faster. You can physically test a carburetor float bowl valve operation with only the float bowl removed, raise the float with your finger and watch the fuel flow or stop flowing when you lift the float with your finger, it operates on the same principal as a toilet. Taking obvious safety precautions with fuel spill. Idle adjust screw is always the one that pushes the throttle slide higher, low speed fuel or air adjustment screw will be the one 'not' located directly in the middle of the carburetor slide. The adjustment you will likely need to visit most is not the screws which affect only low rev operation but rather the cir-clip position on the main jet needle which adjusts for lean to rich adjustment through 1/3rd to full throttle operation.