peterb

Around that time, 2003/4 the bearing was changed from a caged needle roller to a teflon lined sleeve. While the ID of both types of bearings will be the same, I am not sure if the OD is the same. Bye, PeterB.

Hello Kay, The Ht coil sits with the HT lead on it's side. The problem with the hot starting with Ducati ign on the GG is the ign sensor sir gap has to be set really close, 8 thou is fine. (Distance between the sensor and the flywheel. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hello Ian, I remember your posts a long time back, I think because you were(are) a Geordie in China. The 250 is quite a snappy motor compared to the 300 and may not be so easy to ride. The Keihin, when set up with a GJH needle carburates better than the std DelOrto, and provides better low end throttle control, in my opinion. The DelOrto I find is a more racy carb at low revs. To get around your problem cheaply and effectively, I would try the following: Install 2 or 3 extra base gaskets, 0.8mm thick. Retard the ignition by slotting the holes on the external pick up sensor mounting bracket so you can then rotate the sensor counter clockwise, slot the holes as far as possible to give you a range of adjustment, try to end up with a sensor to flywheel clearence of approx 8 thou as if it is a Ducati ign, they work best at this sort of gap - bad starting with a greater gap when hot. As said previously, best to run with a 10T gearbox spkt. Ta ra, PeterB.

Hi Tony, I'm guessing you want the outfit ready in time for the Kaikoura 3 day, so this would be a bit late now. I have a road bike monoshock you could try out, is it for John? This would have a heavier dampening rate than a trial shock and a stiffer spring too. It's off a Kawasaki 250 road bike. From memory it is 300mm between centres. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi sunny, I use Betor's to Sammy Miller specs, not standard Betors as I am told by Spanish friends that the standard Betors do not work so well. The Sammy Betors work very well, I fit 360mm shocks to my Sherpa as they tuck in the steering angle a bit, which I prefer over the standard 340mm length. Yoy can get 40 or 50 lb springs, I have tried both. The 50 lb are too heavy for me and I am unable to get any where near the full stroke of the shock even up some reasonably serious rocks. The 40 lb work very well, I am 88 kg, leaving two notches left on the spring adjuster for future need - like at Xmas time. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi cal, The PRO w/pump seal will not fit the edition motor. Try a local dealer for a new seal, or better still the seal kit as the w/pump shaft will most likely have a groove worn into it. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Ian, If it were me, I'd take it round to White Brothers in Darlington and Al the spanner to bore it, he does a proper job. They can't be too far away from you. If you don't know what clearence you want, Al would probably have a very good idea. Top place. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hello Goreboy, Standard sprockets are 11 and 41, fine for all situations. Bye, PeterB.

Hello Mike, As previously said, there was no TXT250 in 93, if your bike is 93 it would have upside down forks and be called a Contact 25 or GT 25, however, if it was a TXT250 and is maybe 2003, the same pre-mix applies anyway. I always use 50:1 with a mineral oil, 95 octane fuel, never had any problems, some riders use a leaner mix with synthetic, I prefer not to. If it is a 93, there was no manual, just a plastic card with minimal details. If you have any problems, post them on this site. Ta ta, Peter.

Hello rd1, I never heard of a 16 to 18 mm conversion for the shaft, but I guess that you have been supplied with the later model (I think from 1996) shaft, so I also guess you either have a later clutch case or have accurately bored out your old case and fitted a new 18mm seal, probably the latter as I think the clutch case mounting screw hole positions changed after 93 or so. (It was after the 92 models - have a look to see if your motor is a 92 or 93 model) I don't recall any thrust washer between the end of the inner shaft, but there is a washer then spring before the inner gear on the shaft, then a sleeve then the outer gear followed by an aluminium washer and the k'start spring. Have you measured up the 2 shafts to determine if the inner dimensions are the same? I think the inner end of the shaft runs directly in the casing. Yoy haven't got too many washer's there have you? Bye, PeterB.

Having spectated a couple of times in the late 70's, it was always a great feeling to return to Fort William for the evening which seemed to be the centre or heart of the trial. Having ridden the event in 1999, that same atmosphere was prominent in Fort William, what you could say was central to the soul of the event, part of the very essence of trials. It was also very helpful in being able to walk to and from the Parc Ferme from local accommodation. I think if you remove the trial base from Fort William, you chance to lose the soul of the Scottish. If there has to be a change to a larger Parc Ferme, is there not anything else that can be used but still within walking distance of the town centre? I say, keep the trial based where it is, it is very likely the best trial in the World, and in my mind it should be a dream for every young trials rider to ride at least once in their lives. Bye, PeterB.

Hey Tony, You could always do a test on my 300 Raga. I'd still go for testing the plug/socket connection from the main harness from the stator, when you get the bike going, wiggle it around (the connector) and see if you can replicate the fault. Also, see if you can replace the HT lead and cap seeing as the cap was shorting to ground - lead may do the same. I had that problem on a Honda 400 four some years back where all the HT leads and caps would arc to the engine when it rained, fixed that with self amalgamating rubber tape. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Ben, On my last 3 PRO 300's fitted with a Keihin carb, they always run lean with the std factory setting and pink as you found out. I use Shell V power at 50:1, nothing fancy just high octane in this part of the world. You need a larger main jet, 127 or 128. Clip on 2nd notch from bottom, std slide I thought was 35 - can't remember. JJH needle is ok for the younger splatt attack lads, GJH needle gives vastly better low end control for more, er mature riders! 45 I find too rich for pilot, use a 40. Use an Iridium plug, won't foul up. The Keihin has no internal fuel filter, best to have an inline one fitted. Give the carb a thorough clean out just in case. Pilot (air) screw on the Keihin should be around 3/4 to one turn out, DellOrto pilot is 3.5 to 4 turns out. Ta ta, PeterB.

Hi Andy, The old 270 was ok in its day, a bit more go than the 250 though I think the 250 was an easier bike to ride with a more linear power delivery. Check in the UK for parts availablilty, getting old now. It would be a lot lighter than your Scorpa and probably more competetive. Check for worn linkage bearings, dragging clutch (plates swollen or master/slave seals leaking), leaking fork seals, motor does not usually rattle, otherwise all ok. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, I agree with Stork, do not use a press, you may crush the magnesium. Drilling straight in a machine shop could be the only answer, I must say I stripped out my front engine bolt for greasing after reading your post - thanks for the reminder! Try twisting the bolt after heating the area with the hot air gun. Good luck, PeterB.

Hi yamxj, That taper is a tight fit. Are you able to clean up the damaged thread? If not, there are not many ways to remove the flywheel as there is little room in the flywheel slots to fit puller arms. It may be the only thing you can do is to make the flywheel puller fit tightly into the damaged threads (use a lathe) and tack weld the puller to the flywheel boss in 2 or 3 places. Then use the puller by applying pressure to the unit and lightly smack the puller with a hammer to shock the taper loose. This should remove the flywheel and allow you to saw or turn off the tacked on puller. You can then view the damage better and determine if you need to turn out the original thread and make up a sleeve to bring the thread back to standard size. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, The 125's have a shorter stroke motor than the 250/280/300, when fitted with a 250 cylinder they would provide quite a snappy power response, probably need a little flywheel weight too. Bye, PeterB.

Hi scotty, I would suggest a new piston kit from this info, I think these may only be available in A and B sizes, go for the B if available. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Howie, I don't think the original problem has really gone away, on the older pre PRO motor's, we have always had to lean off the original main jet on the DellOrto carbs ever since the early 90's. The knocking description is very likely due to a weak mixture and may be due to the inlet manifold area leaking in air, or the inlet rubber may have perished, or the mag side crank case seal has worn. For a 26 PHBL carb on the older 250's, these carb settings work well: Main 115 Needle D36 2nd notch off bottom 270K or 268K needle jet 33-36 pilot 60 slide Pilot screw (fuel) out 3.5 to 4 turns Completely strip the carb and blow out all air passages, check the slide has not worn. Check the float height, float arms should be parallel to the carb body when upside down, there is a measurement for this but I find eyesight is fine to line this up. Bye, PeterB.

Hi hallier, I probably know you! Try Allens in the UK for Keihin parts. I have a TLM220 in the workshop and can check carb specs for you, only I don't know if the 200 and 220 are the same. If Kerry Miles is still around ChCh then he may be able to help with info and maybe even carb bits. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Ian, The closest GG importer to you that I know of is in Hong Kong, or Taiwan. Take a look on the GG Sapin web site for details. The only trials related info I know about China comes from Thierry Michaud when the FIM sent him out there in 2007 to check out the possibility for running a world round for maybe 2010. He said that there were a few older trials bikes around, good possibilities for sections but not a great deal happening. Do you still have a problem with your 300? Hey Tim, what interesting stories are these? nothing about endo's down rock steps are they? :-) Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jan, I think that never a week goes by without a new question from you! I like Lowbrow's comment about using a creosote brush but not sure if many people outside the UK would know what that is - well ok then, it's a scabby old bristly brush used for applying a runny tar like liquid to fencing timber. Haven't heard about creosote for years now. Anyway, zinc chromate primer is a good idea, magnesium alloy corrodes in water so must have it's surface protected - would be why your front motor mount bolt is stuck, all bolts should be greased. I have used an off the shelf spray can for the magnesium cases on a 330 Gas Gas which looks good and has stayed on for over a year, and only cleaned the surfaces with a wire brush for preparation, not a real thorough job. I used CRC "Zinc" spray, in matt black though I have seen many other colours available in the "Zinc" range, I think gold was available too. Would be worth a try having a look for these CRC products, not sure if they are available up your way. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Andy, Usually, the cause of the rectifier failing is the voltage regulator not being connected to ground very well (loose) or the voltage reg failing. You should be able to use a generic rectifier, check the currernt rating is sufficient. The fan should spin and blow air rather like a hair dryer. Yes, you can re-fit the PRO model fan, it comes with a plastic rad shroud made for the PRO's though you can remove the fan to adapt to your shroud. Bye, PeterB.

Well done Sunny, looking good. A few points to watch out for to complete the build: After fitting the clutch pushrod, remember to fit the ball bearing before the final clutch "mushroom" pushrod. I'm not too sure about the clutch spring tool, looking at the extended LHS gear change shaft, you should have the later clutch spring posts with threaded adjustment - use a locking wire through these nuts if you do have this. The locking nut on the kickstart spring stop was a pressed steel unit, you'd be fine with a standard M6 locking nut. If you can't find any barrerl studs, I can measure up the ones on my spare 250 Sherpa motor for you to make up new ones. Bye, PeterB.

Problem is exremely likely to be dirt in the needle valve. Have a look if there is an in line (fuel line) filter, not usually supplied by the factory but very essential for the Keihin as it does not have an integral filter. Bye, PeterB.