stkman

Thanks everyone for the replies. The photos are particularly helpful. This is going to work out well Andrew

Thanks Andy, that's fantastic information. Was thinking something along those lines - you have confirmed it. Pictures would be really good. Thanks again, Andrew

Hi All, Have my tank apart in preparation of fitting the new Future fuel pump holder. Bit of rust and dirt in the old one so is about time. How have others attached the fuel pump in lieu of the original bracket? I see there are two screw in tangs (for want of a better word) ... perhaps these can be used with ties of some sort? Any thoughts appreciated, Thanks, Andrew

Here you go http://www.montesa4rt.nl/htm/site/1-stage-ecu-maps.htm ... although you may find downloading and installing maps is more difficult that using the search feature on this forum!

My 'plastic' bushes have now been in for almost 2 years - around 250 hours riding - with no maintenance whatsoever and I am about to replace one sleeve as it is showing a bit of play. The others are perfect. A lot of my riding is in sandy conditions and am wondering how much sand managed to find it's way in. Will take photos of the 'old' bush and post. The actual 'plastic' used is Acetal (polyoxymethylene) which I suspect is far more suitable in this application than nylon ... Andrew

Fuiji doesn't get up those indoor sections on the HRC Mont either ... reckon it's not the bike.

I have one off these and can vouch for it's effectiveness. Bike has had the throttle buried many times in the last two years, been through 3 grips on that side but has never stuck. Perfect. Andrew

Cannot use a 315 hub with a 4RT rim as mentioned above ... 315 uses 36 spokes and 4RT uses 32 spokes.

That's what I did for four years ... greasing every 4-6 months, then let maintenance slip and bearings dies. The plastic bushes are surprising;y good. No issues after nearly a year with no maintenance. Initial cost similar or a bit less, replacement cost of plastic bushes if I decide to replace (not required yet) very low. Best of all, I don't ride worrying if the water I am riding through will get into the bearings. The setup may not be the best technically but it is a great solution for me, Andrew

I replaced the linkage bearings on my 4RT with bushes with stainless steel sleeves. Been in there for nearly a year (about 100 hours riding) in all riding conditions (dry, wet, mud, sand) with no apparent wear issues. Even if I replace the bushes every year at (I'm guessing) less than $15 for a set, I am onto a winner. http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/37205-4rt-linkage-bushes/page__hl__%2Blinkage+%2Bbearings__fromsearch__1 Made by a local engineer who rides, I believe he does them for EVOs as well. Andrew Edit: Just checked his website. Not a lot listed there (so contact if interested) but does non-rust stainless steel EVO swingarm bushes ... http://www.blaymiresengineering.co.nz/page3.php

I replaced mine with a TRP ... cheaper and I prefer the action of it. Andrew

Hi All, I run a DID VT2 narrow x-ring chain. No lubrication required really. I do use WD40 or similar to stop it rusting. Has been on the bike for about 18 months of once weekly riding (around 150 hours) including trail rides and I have yet to adjust it. Most economical chain up until this point. Andrew

2005 4RT with 2009 plastics ... blue rim tape to match the front number plate!

I don't know but why don't you just unplug it and see? Would be interested to know how much it weighs when you take it off ... I suspect very little, Andrew

I had a similar problem with my 4RT ... running fine at a trial. Stopped, leaned bike into a bank (no stand) and wouldn't go when picked up. Pulled plug out and checked, no spark. Turned out to be throttle cable pulled put at the throttle body (was holding throttle slightly open). Popped it back and spark was back! Started first kick. Spent hours on it and that is what it was!!!!

Mine is a 2005 ... bought a couple of years old, my first trials bike ever. Was a bit savage for a beginner! All mods have made it better for me. Programmable throttle body with a custom map was a big improvement. Much softer off idle with extra fuel down low to soften engine braking (although engine braking didn't seem harsh). 315R clutch master cylinder improved the clutch, nice now although have Apico dimpled plates and Sureflex fibre plates yet to fit. Mitani header pipe fitted -actually allowed it to pull from lower revs, felt softer again. Jitsie silencer (like a spark arrestor) lowered the tone of the exhaust and took the bark out and softened it off idle even more! Replaced standard bars with Jitsie fatbars (needed adapters) ... nice bend. Am running 10/44 gearing, the high idle not noticable with the custom map. Raptor pegs on Jitsie hangers ... just feels so secure. TRP rear shock made a massive difference in feel. A noticable improvement. This bike just feels so right to me now ... like a comfy pair of boots. When I give it to a novice wanting to try trials, they come back with a big smile on their face. It may be milder off idle but still has plnty of power for the bigger obstacles I do (only a clubman rider). Is now over 600 hours old ... checked the valves at 450 hours, they were spot on, very regular oil changes and not really anything else. And still puts a really big smile on my face when I ride it which is what it is all about for me. Have a look at my garage page, Andrew

A couple of weeks ago, I rode the 'expert' loop of a local trail ride on my Montesa 4RT. Loved it. The riders on KTM enduro bikes watched in envy as I rode everything feet up. Was a little tight and technical. Most of the time I was in fourth - the 4RT pulls away from almost nothing in fourth. Third when there were rock steps or rutted downhills. Was 25km so carried and extra litre of fuel but didn't need it. I have a seat for the bike but have never used it! Was a great workout. This bike just never misses a beat and seems ideal for tight trail rides. Andrew

Hi All, When assembled on the bench, the o-rings barely touch the bushing sleeve - the engineer that makes these parts told me to get the bush exactly centred in the dogbone or swingarm so that the o-rings aren't compressed. In fact, the setup came with an installation tool to get the bush centred exactly. I will judge how well the bush is standing up to the forces by judging the amount of play at the rear wheel. The bushes will be relatively cheap ... even if they last only six months of weekly riding, I'll condsider this setup a success. Will report back in 6 months or sooner if this setup fails. Andrew

Hi All, I replaced all the linkage bearings in my 4RT when I first purchased it used ... since then have dismantled and regreased every six months. All well for almost 4 years but noticed play recently. Found 1 set of bearings good, one OK and the third rusty and seized. Rather than replace more bearings, I thought I would try some bushes a local (relatively) trials riding engineer makes up. The plastic bushes are made of a self lubricating hard plastic (used for bearings in industry) and the collar that slides inside the bush is stainless steel. I put it all together with lots off grease and the large o-rings look like they will seal it all quite well. The whole setup looks a lot simpler than the original setup ... rear suspension feels great now and hopefully maintenance will be simpler. Will see how this setup works. Original bearing setup on left, bush setup on right. Andrew

I like 10/44 ... as said, it really is a personal preference. One thing I have done is gone for an x-ring chain this time. So far has been on for about a year of 2-3 weekly rides, about half in mud and haven't had to adjust chain tension since installing. I'm impressed. Andrew

The Ossas in NZ are non-homologated ... they do not have lights or any other road equipment. Could be as simple as that!

Hi Andy, What area are you going to. Can email you Auckland/Waikato/Bay of Plenty details if you send me an email address via a PM. Andrew

Hi Matthew, My 4RT gets a fairly easy life. A trial (riding or setting out) every couple of weeks and helping to set out enduro's and trailrides every 6 weeks or so. Doesn't see high revs. I use fully synthetic engine oil and change it every 15 hours, filter every 30 hours. At 15 hours, oil is just starting to get dark in colour. I use 10 weight mineral hydraulic oil in the gearbox and change it every 15 hours as well- if I don't the clutch screeches. ELF oil is amazing stuff and I was leaving that 30 hours without problems but the price of it quadrupled here so had to find an alternative. ATF wasn't bad but the hydraulic oil seems better to me and is cheaper than the ATF. Clean the airfilter every couple of days riding - have two so always have a fresh one. Checked the valve clearances at 450 hours, they were spot on. Am at around 520 hours now and is running really well. Got two years out of a good quality non-o-ring MX chain and sprockets, run an X-ring now and it is amazing. Just no 'stretch' so far and maintenance is super easy. Give it a clean after every ride and a light oil with same 10 weight I use for the gearbox to keep rust at bay (tacky oil plus sand etc would make a perfect paste for wearing sprockets in my opinion). The X-ring was only $15 more than the MX chain. Remove and regrease steering head bearings yearly, regrease shock linkage 6 monthly. Haven't had to replace either. Works for me, Andrew

New Zealand (MNZ) went to "Moto-trials" earlier this year ... followed on from Australia. Personally, I prefer "Observed trials" or just "Trials" but voting dictated the change. One reason for the change was to differentiate the sport from "Bike-trials". Andrew