subanator

Note the the LC350 inlet has the carb set central in the rubber, this puts the carb very close the exhaust, and would put heat into the carb. This could cause problems with tuning. The original TY one you will note is offset to the left. Changing the airbox is an eligibility issue as is not standard and would be considered a major component. I just used a better quality air filter and not over oil the filter for better breathing.

trophymacd, try here: http://www.trialsport.com.au/beta/documents.htm Cheers, Roger

I have changed 2x casings now due to rotting out. Tried synthetic coolant etc. and still failed. Its easy to inspect, drop the coolant from the drain screw on water pump cover. 3x screws off the water pump cover and loosen off the hoses. If you see any white pasty stuff in around the impeller, its magnesium rot. Beware it can block the radiator cores if its bad. I flushed my engine out and radiator (reverse flushed with hose pressure, and let drain. Good news is the earlier aluminum casing fits and fixes this prob forever, smallest of weight penalty, as I have now done. I blocked off the internal coolant passage thats now exposed with a rubber plug (from earlier design). Run standard coolant. What happens is the powder coating is too thin on the magnesium, as it is sacrificial to aluminum and corrodes due to electrolysis. With any second hand bike,I would at your convenience go right over it. Pull down and regrease everything - swingarm, headstock, wheel bearings. Replace all fluids and oils - gearbox, forks, coolant, brake fluid (a pain but worth doing). Clean exhaust, repack muffler. At least you now have a reliable mount that will last you all season. I do this at the end of every season.

Hi, did a search on my '03 Rev3 270 for a manual online somewhere, can seem to find them anymore. The link on R2W site doesnt work anymore, the factory Beta site only has the latest ones. Even used to be Techno stuff on there too. Did a google an found some here, has anybody got something more accurate to year model, as all I found was one that was for a 250, not 270. I was trying to work out what Mikuni carb the 270 has, is it a 28mm? The 250 has a 26mm one (VM26-208), maybe someone here knows? EDIT: Think I may even answered this one in my own post !!!!, looking for a Parts list, found all here.

I didnt get a good result with a hot tank parts washer, the Robowash solution removes the oily substance, but leaves the hard carbon deposits. I used a sandblaster to clean that out last time, but very gently and minimally applied, it is very abrasive to the bends. Also I used a length of braising rod twisted into a small spiral in a battery drill, and wicked at the bends to remove the deposits to good effect. Good synthetic doesnt eliminated burnt carbon, it lessens it. So be regular with maintenance and dont let it build up after more than a season or two.

I would suggest to get the Aluminum casing, its identical to the Magnesium-Alloy, the type they all come with as standard. The weight penalty is nothing, and eliminates a re-occurring problem. I have replaced 2x casings now on m '03, tried all the so called synthetic coolants to no effect. I even caught the last one starting to pit and epoxy coated the inside, a small pin hole must have let the coolant through again and rotted out. I have got a aluminum one now, and now can run any old coolant as I please. I believe the EVO comes with an Aluminum casing now, and the Magnesium-Alloy casings are stocked as off the shelf works parts! Now as explained in previous posts, Magnesium-Alloy is sacrificial, think as in anode. This is Electrolysis an is caused by the Magnesium being sacrificial to Aluminum (see here why: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolysis and http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode). Some bikes are ok and dont ever present a problem, other bikes with this failure is the power coating is too thin and the result is irreversible and not repairable. You will find the Aluminum casing should be cheaper to the Magnesium-Alloy one too, (not by much). Hope this helps you.

Yes 5wt is too light, my bike just kept topping out all the time over rough ground, very annoying, as the front end gets skitterish. I prefer the 10wt to slow the damping rate up now.

I would be firstly checking the colour of the plug, its the main indicator to how the bike is running. Look for too wet, too lean, too black etc tell tails. I then would see if its got a good spark. Change plug if you havent already. Then I would check ignition timing, and set it to standard if its not already. Other than that: Other possible probs as mentioned carb etc and CDI electrics. I do know of some bikes that had a partial breakdown in the stator causing the CDI to perform badly. Crank seals? Another possible prob. Exhaust muffler packing done recently? Somethings here to consider if you get to here with no change.

I remember a similar thread came up last year about this, hope this search below opens it up: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....mp;hl=subanator

Here likewise, some good stuff listed there! Unfortunately it may be a long wait for our dollar to go up too

Sad to hear also. My dealings with Bert were with a KTM Enduro purchase in the mid '80's from another state. I remember him to be most helpful and knowledgeable, no worries freighting parts, backup for me remotely was second to none. He even photocopied the WhitePower fork shop manual for me, as the new upside down forks were not the norm back then.

Is that an actual Kato bike of the pictures taken? or a replica? (JonV8 Photobucket album) I am interested in more info particularly about the 175 bike if anyone has anything thanks.

Sadly no, the original is your best alternative. I tried the RZ350 one (very similar to the RD one), and basically was too straight and fouled with the exhaust and your leg, as it was most annoying . But the design of the clamping arrangement had more strength in it, but fouled on the crankcase where the pinch bolt is positioned. I heat shaped the one I had and tried to copy the shape of the TY one, but ended up with a poor cousin, and was eventually shorter and hit the footpeg. Gave it the flick to the back of the shed! I ended up buying a brand new kickstart assembly of Yamaha Part No: 525-15620-01 Please correct me if I am wrong that the RD one is different to the RZ one.

I know this post is supposed to be an EVO topic, but the RYP Full-Back pegs was something I wanted to know also. So, after a bit of googling I come up with this: https://secure.rypusa.com/catpage.cfm?cat_selected=116 I was looking at copying the way the '07 Rev3 footpeg bracket was lower and back to my '03 one. I think these pegs alone will solve both of these issues. (except the exchange rate for me would be the issue for me now!)

Thats a good enough reason for me That probably why I did this to mine, except I have the DT carb still and yet to get an OKO, but understand they are better in the low end tuning. The reason I modded my bike was to be able to ride it better in modern set courses that dont allow for twinshocks. (not like the flowing non-stop trials of the bikes era). Plus I like to ride a twinshock in a modern trial for the added challenge anyway. I set out to achieve a better midrange primarily, but I havent got round to all the tweaks yet, more fiddling!

Graham, sorry about the capitalist bit, just that nearly all the provided links inferred branded products. Hence why I gave the home build reference. I reckon the weight penalty is well worth the accomplishment of actually building such a bike. Its sort of the same challenge to me why I ride a twinshock in events than the modern. Similar to yourself Graham, I have an electrical/instrument background and can see the alternatives from what is already around and whats off the shelf in the way of parts. I think its possible and hope you go ahead with it. I think the build wherever it takes you can always be improved or updated easily enough with new products and more availability. If affordable and can be designed as such, a second battery pack would hopefully give enough range for a trial. I have seen some of the lightweight petrol hybrid bikes (hybrid to mountain bikes) like these on the net: http://www.fxbikes.com/ http://www.projectm85.com/ It would be my ideal to get a trials version in a smaller lighter package like this in electric, dont need so much bulk to throw around, just need smaller lighter batteries!

This combo + OKO carb should be all you need, why develop another? Also the RZ350 intake and reed block is similar (boost bottle inlet solution), but would be too big a jump from the DT175 one, as would be the YZ125B/C reed block. This increase does affect the bottom end smoothness somewhat.

I think the concept is brilliant, it will ensure the future of the sport. I have contemplated this also to building one, but water proofing the motor and components will be a challenge. I thought I might go into this something along the lines of a commuter bike first as mule, and learn from that to develop a trials version. With newer batteries coming available to the market and pricing will make them more affordable, like the LiFo4 type batteries. There is a lot of info out there and and some blogs and groups, dont just look at other dirtbike and proprietary brands, there are a few grassroots builds also, like the Lewis bike. The more open communication building one of these will see parallel developments, but some different innovation coming out and improvements to be shared. The whole idea I hope is to build a bike that is environmentally friendly, and can be ridden in areas closer to home that are not available currently, or even in urban settings (industrial estate trials parks for example!) Dont just view this for pure capitalist view of conquering an untapped market. The high end brand developers will do this anyway, but a budget build for the average Joe is possible even now. Here are some sites that I know of that offer a lot of info and help: http://electrocycle.ning.com/ http://www.electricmotion.org/ http://www.evmotorcycle.org/home/

I have looked at this myself and came to a different conclusion before reading here, I think the pivot point of the swingarm axle is too far back. It is knowhere near close enough to the engine and countershaft sprocket. Compare this to the like year bike engine combinations of the TY175 to the YZ125 or the DT175. The swing arm on these bikes are right into the notch at the back of the cases and the swingarms are longer. Yes, these bike are for different purposes etc. But reason that having the footpegs further behind the swingarm pivot is better for leverage on rear end bias and control. Just look at the 250 Majesty frames - Godden, and all modern trials bikes are like this. Why the stock 175 is like this frustrates me no end as the stock 250 is no as bad as this? The stock 175 is swingarm pivot is actually on the back side of the rear frame downtubes! Even the Majesty 175 frame in pics seem to be like this also, can some one confirm this? Mods to new footpeg plates to lower and move footpegs back achieve this a little, but the swing arm is now too short. I was thinking to weld a new plates forward of the rear downtubes and add a longer swingarm overall. I compared the DT175 swinarm off one bike I have also which would be too long and heavy anyway, but sure there is something that could be found to suit. I really need a spare frame to experiment on with.

Thanks PeterB, for the comments. Mikee, good to hear you like the change, enjoy the ride. I have seen riders in a higher grade riding with this mod cleaning up a grade title in my club. But just try and ride the bike without the added gaskets when you get to a higher grade, go easy on any mods the other way, you have to first master it before modding it!

I went through a similar problem, but it was hard to start also. Swapped coils, changed condenser, did make a small improvement to start. Main thing I noted was a burnt out lighting coil, behind this the wiring was also affected (shorting), fixed this, still no good. Got the coil rewound, no luck. Changed out stator and coils with another set and ran like a clock. Looking back with a mechanic, we come to the conclusion the burnt out lighting coil was affecting the magnetic flux in the flywheel to not give enough field to the ignition coil. Also BJ Racing (USA) sell one of the UK CDI's also, which one is it from the above mentioned suppliers?

I had mine machined a little, metal taken off the side (as in thinner), but only went as far as the head of the rivet heads. Then if you went further the outside diameter would need further machining, not recommended as per Feetupfun's post. Does pick up revs a bit better for it off idle now.

I have always thought about the theory behind this. But a couple of things confuse me and I see it as: The stroke and piston sweep is the same, adding base gaskets raises the exhaust port, as the gaskets lift the barrel and the exhaust port would be found earlier to the piston TDC to degree of port window - peakier? (I am not sure what happens to the intake and transfer ports timing by doing this apart from being raised too) The squish area volume when the piston at TDC would increase, as the piston is effectively lower in barrel - less compression. I don't see how the crankcase volume would change as the swept area is only as much charge as the piston can deliver and the negative intake pressure would change in timing as the ports are higher. Sorry theory can be blinding and I could have this all wrong, correct me if I am, I am interested about how this works, its so effective.

WHOA, just picked up on a miss quote here I replied too. Sorry to mislead you Mikee, but I have 2x extra BASE gaskets + the original = 3 base gaskets, not Head gaskets. But the effect of one extra base one would be noticeable, as another bike I know of had done it this way and the owner was happy with the change. With extra head gaskets, I am not sure of the sealing arrangement and how that relates, but certainly lowers the compression. Sorry cant advice on Torque or sealing. I will watch for your reply to see how you went. My bike is due for a set of rings and once pulled down I will look at the option of removing a base gasket and adding a head gasket.

1960's speed Trial