charliechitlins

There's knocking and there's knocking. Is it mechanical knocking, like a wristpin or crank? Detonation? Pre-ignition? All the time? Under load? When you're on the throttle? When you shut off? When you hit a bump? You get the idea...

I just realized that the "Trials Central" sticker is visible at the base of the gas tank!

Get that butt back! This photo will probably expose my poor technique to the world, but it's one of the very few I have...

You sure about that?

Maybe an acidic flux used and not cleaned off.

Ride around for a couple minutes while dragging the brake, then spray the rotor and caliper with a hose for about 15 seconds. The rotor should get hot enough for the water to hiss when it hits. Don't ask me why it works...

They wear out, too. Some re-sleeve the bore. I wonder if one could knurl the piston?

If you're going to put your wheel down on top, you really have to shut off hard and drop your wheel so the suspension compresses. There's a vid of Ryan Young doing this in an exaggerated way on a small log, but it's a good illustration. Otherwise, as said above, you need to drive your wheel into the obstacle near the top. Either way, when you're shutting off, it doesn't appear to me that you're compressing the suspension enough to drive the bike up and over when you do the 2nd blip and unload. Also...from looking at the 2nd vid, you may need to get closer to the obstacle before you lift the front wheel. Lift the wheel at about the same distance as the obstacle is tall.

I've been out of it for a few years, but back in the olden days...'02-'03...I thought the 250's were kind of peaky...I'm not sure if I ever even saw one...this is America...bigger is better... When I got my 290, I was pretty much a novice, and I totally loved the bike. A touch of timing retard and a slow throttle and I think that big motor actually helped cover for my lack of technique.

PM sent

Water pump shaft and seal.

New (to me) GG, and can't ride it. Very frustrating. In the years of riding and wrenching my and my buddies Shercos, I was never told that parts were out of stock. Sorry, Ryan...if I didn't get such a good price on the GG, I would never have strayed from the flock! But, as my old buddy Eliot used to say, "You pay now or you pay later...either way you're gonna pay!"

I've owned, maintained and been around a bunch of Shercos. Being the mechanical one in the group, I've worked on all of the major brands. As much as I like all the cool bits and bobs on the Montesa, I've always found Sherco the most dependable, easiest to work on and, at least here in the US, along with Montesa, best parts availability.

I guess it's OK if it works for you... Never heard of it, though. What you should probably try to do, though, is loft your front wheel using almost no throttle so you don't speed up too much.. Dip your knees and shut off, then give the smallest amount of throttle and get your weight back and the front will come up. I'm always shocked at how little throttle the real good guys use.

It's the small jet next to the main jet. Best cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air. If you must stick something in it, make sure it's neither pointier nor harder than a Polish sausage.

Great opportunity to start building an electric one!

I use a piece of inner tube tied to the frame. Fold the peg up and slip the rubber band around it.

It's because you know I was a Harley mechanic! A rock is an official Harley tool that carries a "-03" suffix on the part number to denote the year it was introduced.

I'd sure take a few of those little rubber norts that keep goo out of the master cyl!

Hammers are too sophisticated, I use a stone.

Totally common practice.

Kicking when cold...full choke, no throttle. Back in the early '00's, we used to drill our starter jets a little for easier starting. No biggy going 2 or 3 steps bigger. It's not a real critical jet size like a pilot or main jet. I don't know if it's valid on your later model bike.

I noticed this, too, in the process of sorting and familiarizing myself with my new (to me) GG. The front spigot on the carb is quite long and can be safely backed out of the manifold a bit...I split the difference.

Oooops...believe Cope...not me. It's been quite a while since I wrenched a Sherco. If he says the flywheel needs to come off, then it does. I remember the process to be easy...but pulling the flywheel is pretty easy.

Factory calls for 5w30 motor oil...I was running it in my Sherco and it was so cheap I felt good about changing it often. I bet Dexron III would do it, too. The new oil went milky. Looks like I'm in for some water pump parts (Stoodley was right, of course!). The clutch pack WAS new...I hope it's not too compromised from sitting in coolant. I'll measure it up...maybe take it apart and go at the plates with Brake Kleen...