swooshdave

New seals worked. Thanks.

Yeah, I thought that might be the case. Hope a local place has those size seals.

When the bike is running the ATF comes out the primary filler plug (it's vented). I can't figure out how the primary is getting pressurized, I thought that if the crank seals were bad they would suck, not blow. Thoughts?

What plug you using? Wrong plug will foul too.

I emailed asking if they had a bike rack for a Reliant Robin. No response. What gives? I need to stop watching so much Top Gear.

two stroke oil is recommended. Really, anything made today is probably way better than when the bike was new. How much will you ride your bike? If I put 100 miles a year on my bike I'd be surprised. Sitting there will do more damage that riding it. Buy some and ride it.

Clean that carb and ride it!

Matt at Speed and Sport said he got a 21/18 combination to work. Sam might want to call him (or email), if he hasn't already. You wouldn't think an 18in would work but it might. Here's a Montesa 123 with 21/18. I would suspect the Bultaco would be the same, nice feature is the swingarm pivot helps keep the tire clean.

I agree with Lorenzo, this bike sounds like it needs a careful inspection and a teardown to see what is really going on. Can you tell us more about the purchase? If you're not familiar with the bike you can consider taking it to Lynn Mobley up in Minden. Mobleys If he's still around.

The IRCs are the expensive trials tires? What would be cheaper (I'm afraid to ask...)?

Someone once asked me if I'd ever ridden a new trials bike. I said no, and I never wanted to. It would be like sleeping with a younger woman and then going back to the wife. Just safer to keep riding the old girl.

Torque is more important that hp. And what the torque curve is.

The lack of pictures is disturbing.

Just ask yourself one thing, are you a better trials rider than SM? I know what my answer is if someone asked me that.

Get them up on two wheels and you'll know.

Sure, makes the bike less likely to tip over at the super slow speeds of trials. Just as you can keep the bike upright by slightly turning the front wheel, having the wheels offset add to this when you are going straight. In this exagerated example of the contact patches you can see how the front wheel will reduce the tendency for it to fall to the left and the rear wheel will reduce the tendency for it to fall to the right. Bikes that don't have the wheels perfectly in line is not uncommon. For example the Norton Commando also was like this and it was known for pretty decent handling.

You'll may get a lot of answers so I'll give you mine, these things were made to run on 2 stroke oil from back in the day, so I assume that anything made nowadays is better than what they had then. No idea where to get it from. In a bind I'll grab something from NAPA but I don't think they have a ton of them in Liverpool, unless it's Liverpool, Pennsylvania.

Because it's hard to find a post-79 Bultaco!

I have ridden at Donner several times on both an M49 and an M92 and either were far more capable than I. I really do appreciate the extra torque of the 325cc M92 at the elevation, although I do weigh more than I should. But the truth is there isn't such a thing as a bad Sherpa T.

Reread the second post?

Pilot jet. Every single time I've had one of the bikes refuse to start I clean the pilot jet and it starts right up. Seems to gum quickly when it's been allowed to sit.

I find the M92 handles completely differently from the M49. The M49 is very stable and steers slow. I can't imagine their geometry shares much.

I think it means, "Does 15mm make an difference?"

Pretty much guarantee it won't be worth the shipping. Sorry. Heck, the shipping costs of the forks alone will exceed the value of any Matador.