mcman56

I have a friend that rides a Beta 125 just for that reason. It is surprisingly powerful for a 125 and has very quick response, even at elevation.

lineaway - The link is interesting. What type of electric device do you use and what type of issues does it help. I do use an Armaid and it has helped tremendously but I started getting sore again lately. I have used just for massage but the link shows more of a pressure treatment. https://armaid.com/collections/frontpage/products/armaid-extreme I will try the other suggestions also. Where can I buy some confidence?

Riding is hard on my arms. My forearms get pretty sore and can stay that way, mostly the extensors. Are there any techniques or tips to help a person ride with less arm and more leg? Just trying to use less arm does not seem that effective. I do exercise and stretch my forearms so believe this is a technique issue more than a fitness issue. Age does not help.

Can you grease the shock bearings on a 2014 Sachs shock? Mine is out and I have tried to tap out the top hat internal collars but they do not budge.

copemech - I have had a Keihin on two bikes and an OKO on one and they all seemed very insensitive to idle mixture screw settings. As long as I don't go below 1 full turn out, it does not seem to make any difference to the idle. This is true even when trying different pilot jets. They all ran fine but I have never had carbs so insensitive to this adjustment. Is your experience different? One day a friend went to adjust the idle mixture on his Beta and the idle mixture screw was missing. His bike still ran fine. Odd

In the US there was a Super Smooth model, details below. The exhaust is probably just a longer head pipe. I have a 2015 Factory model which I believe is basically an early release 2016 model with a couple of extras. While I found the power to be quite smooth even with the quick throttle, I tended to pick up a lot of speed when doing multiple obstacles in a row. I went from an 11 to a 10 and finally a 9 tooth front sprocket. With the 9, the bike can more easily be ridden slower and it does not pick up speed over multiple obstacles. I believe the SS model comes with a 9. It certainly is inexpensive to try. Items included with all SS models:-“Hi-Torque” exhaust system-Heavier flywheel to help smooth out the power.-Smaller countershaft sprocket to tie the engine torque to the ground-Slower turn throttle assemble-Different combustion chamber to reduce the engine’s power pulses-Heavier primary drive gear for additional smoothness.

X ring chains are narrower than o ring chains. Compared to standard chains, they require little lubrication and last forever. RK and DID make ones that they advertise as narrow IIRC for enduro use. The RK "narrow" chain I have is slightly narrower than the DID "narrow" I have. It is only 0.01" different so could be manufacturing tolerances. On my Rev3 I had to run the master-link backwards with the clip towards the tire to get adequate clearance. I did the same on my evo but probably did not have to. Standard o ring chains fit on my 2002 Sherco and 1997 Gas Gas. They must be slightly heavier and consume a minuscule amount of power but power certainly isn't the limiting factor in my riding. I certainly can not tell a difference when changing from standard to X ring.

It sounds like we need an electrical engineer to step in. There should be some way to isolate a line to the fan from the line to the CDI. Do you know if your CDI provides a spark advance curve? Some do and some don't. I checked a 97 Techno and it provided about 25 degrees of advance between idle and max revs. My 2008 Rev 3 only provides about 5 degrees and from my understanding that is from things happening a little quicker at higher voltages and not due to designed in advance. Looking at earlier Rev 3 stators, they have two trigger coils so must have one for idle and one for higher rpms. Many older street bikes do that. Anyway, I have heard of TLR200 owners running pit bike CDIs on their bikes because the Honda ones are no longer available. The only issue is no advance curve or unknown advance curve. http://www.classictrial.co.uk/hondacdi.html Of course, this does not help with the fan issue. A sort of crude way to keep riding while working on this would be to run the fan with a small battery.

Voltage dividers drop voltage. If you knew the true output at idle, you could step that down to 12 volts or so for the fan and let the AC regulator maintain it down there above idle. I have been playing with a Rev3 ignition and I get 182 volts from the stator going to the CDI and 16 volts from the stator going the the lights/ fan at 670 RPM. This is with a scope but my skills are pretty limited. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-dividers

Several places sell universal regulator/ rectifiers. Maybe if the stator wire connected to the CDI and one of those it could work. The people that sell them should know so it may be worth an email to ask. https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/regulator-rectifier-dc-unwired.asp http://www.rickystator.com/product/other-parts/item/regulator-rectifier-w-relay https://www.denniskirk.com/2001630.sku?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxoH3i5T-1gIVDp1-Ch2SaAMlEAQYCCABEgIzdfD_BwE&ad=45713338237

Pickup coils normally just have one wire. Does the green wire also produce voltage? I'm used to seeing something more like the link below of a 1996 where green is power to CDI and red is pulse. Are you jumping Yellow large to Yellow small? The 2004 diagram does suggest that a regulated voltage is being supplied by the regulator. If you really think the regulator is bad, you could try cutting it open to see what is between yellow large and yellow small. This picture does suggest one charging coil. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2004-GAS-GAS-TXT-PRO-280-DUCATI-STATOR-PLATE-/232490214622?hash=item36217f24de%3Ag%3AnZkAAOSwPfZZvPWH&nma=true&si=zKqaO9%2Frdh%2BGEBvLNxm8fGDXnMM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

I'm no expert but believe all CDIs take power directly from the stator with no conditioning. See the later model wiring diagram in the link below. The AC frequency is quite high so you probably need an oscilloscope to get an accurate number but it could be more like 200 to 400 VAC. The voltage regulator is just a voltage limiting device. The fan regulator would be a rectifier. Based on the wiring diagram for the newer model, your plan sounds feasible. Do you have a diagram for your model? http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/61402-2013-txt-pro-wiring-diagram/

This one has a right side kickstand but does not look like the picture with the pegs on the web site

http://www.tyoffroad.co.uk/store/p34/FOOTREST_LOWERING_KIT_(BOLT-ON)_TO_FIT_YAMAHA_TY175._(REF.Y026).html Is the TY175 frame the same on all years?

Is it possible to have wide pegs and not have to lift the peg for kick starting? Any pictures? One company advertises them on line but the pictures do not look like the 175 in my garage, maybe it is a 250.

What does ti take to remove the oil pump? Can you just remove the outer cover, pull the pump and install a block off plate? Or do you need to remove the inner cover and pull more parts? Would that mean you need to have an inner cover gasket before starting?

No goo. It actually feels pretty good. I need to ride another bike back to back to see if it is lacking.

The disc is flat. It did have one little gall mark and some wear but I have seen much worse. I have been looking and the gall mark must have occurred on the last ride so it can not be the long term issue. I installed an Apico FIM solid rear disc Beta Evo 09-on made by NG. This was a big improvement but not sure why.

I burped the banjo bolt about 10 times but it feels the same. The pedal does not feel particularity spongy. Low pressure on the pedal produces a very slight drag by the brakes. High pressure provides strong braking. The problem is that there is nothing in the middle. Is this what is called wooden brakes? I guess this could be a bubble or slight fluid leak. I have a new brake disc to try. After that I'll go for a 2017 master cylinder. It also looks like dropping the shock would allow removing the brake system in one piece for off bike vertical bleeding. I have tried all recommended brake pad brands but they feel the same. The only pads I have not tried are the non metallic. I replaced the caliper with a 2017 caliper. I have also done a lot of bleeding but it keeps feeling the same.

I'm chasing an issue with poor initial grab on a rear brake. It works when you stand on it but slight feathering on a slight down hill approach to an obstacle feels very weak. Anyway, I have heard of people putting pressure on master cylinders to strengthen the feel so I thought I would give it a try. I hung a 10 lb weight on the rear brake pedal for maybe a week. It sat in the truck all day with no weigh prior to my ride so I don't know if there was any impact but I noticed that the master cylinder had bled out a very small quantity of fluid. I'm guessing some number of drops. This had to have come through the seals. It still worked as before. Does this confirm a bad master cylinder? Having never tried this before, I don't know the affect on a good working system. Could they all weep a little under such conditions?

I have a 2014 Factory model and it does not have the nut under the top triple clamp for setting tension on the steering bearings. The "fork adjusting ring nut" shown on the 2013 evo parts list is not there. The "ring nut" is shown on the standard 2014 model parts list. I discovered this when I removed the top clamp and the forks started to fall off. So, on the factory, the top nut sets the tension for the steering bearings and holds the top clamp in place. I don't remember how well the top clamp fit but it does have the pinch bolt. Not teh same bike but I was getting a head clunk on a 99 Kawasaki Concours when hitting the brake on the freeway. On that bike, fully torquing the nut above the top clamp removed the clunk. If these come in the right size, they may work as a thin sleeve. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca?vgnextcatid=2633738&vgnextcat=SHAFT REPAIR SLEEVES&vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN Or, if you know have access to machine tools, you could bore or ream the hole in the top clamp much larger and press fit in a reducing collar that would be a tight fit on the steering spindle.

Some questions - Shouldn't it be the clamping force rather than the clearance that keeps things from moving....like the rear axle in the swing arm? If movement is based on fit, wouldn't you need a press fit to prevent movement, like a big end pin in a crankshaft? I assumed the pinch bolt was to keep the bolt from loosening thus preventing loss of clamping force.

To add more confusion, some bikes respond quicker than others. I mean response as in how quickly the motor increases rpms. I ride a 300 evo yet a friends 125 evo responds quicker. I find that the 250 evos I have ridden respond slightly quicker than my 300 even though it is counter intuitive. Some riders who ride obstacles much larger than I do prefer 125s because they do not have to worry about using too much power. On the other hand, you can be 2 or 3 gears too high and still get through on a 300. I think it comes down to personal taste so you should try as many as you can. I have not ridden many of the other current bikes and my throttle control has probably improved over time but in general, I found the Betas to have softer/ smoother power bands than other bikes. This excludes their current 125. I don't know how they get that much response from a 125.

I removed tow springs on a Rev3. The clutch pull was lighter but I eventually noticed slipping in high gears.

I have a 2008 Rev 3 200. It is a sleeved down 250. It now has a 250 top end. The piston and cylinder are different plus there was a bush in the small end of the rod to reduce the diameter to the 200 piston pin size. The 200 uses the bushing as a bearing so has no roller bearing in the small end.