Jump to content

tombo46

Members
  • Posts

    511
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tombo46
 
 
  1. A friend recently flipped his bike doing a sit down wheelie, he's a cracking rider (british experts) but messed up and missed the rear brake. he did the exact same damage and it is very expensive to fix.... The exhaust I think is in excess of
  2. seconded, steve who owns trialcast lives 100yrds down the road from my shop (been serving him for years and didnt realise, fancy that!) I have had a pair of his pegs for 1 1/2 years now, still 100% really like them. ridden about 6 - 10 hours a week. I had a pair of S3 Ali pegs and they lasted about a month before shattering, the trialcast ones just keep going forever. ask any of my friends, I crash ALOT! All the best Tom
  3. tombo46

    Fan Wont Stop!

    Does anyone know why my fan wont stop? been working around the radiator and its come off a couple of times. ive pulled the thermostat off once and put it back in after greasing the O-ring up, ive connected everything up as it was (as far as I know). anyone know why it wont stop? also, would it be possible to run the fan on constantly at a trial? its a 2008 gas gas 300 and the fan pretty much runs all the time anyway! The only other thing is that I ran the bike without the fan connected by mistake, could this have caused a problem with the thermostat as it over heated? All the best Tom
  4. I dont have any experience as an organiser but I think I speak for most people (except maybe 1) when I say **** them, ban them from the club, string them up by their ****'s, hang, daw, and quarter them. and call them lots of nasty names until they go away. what was it exactly that they had a problem with? All the best Tom
  5. Thats some sound advice right there! I dont think you can physically learn it though, its more something that comes with time. Im somewhat an expert on it now...... Tom
  6. what is your budget? some of the modern 125's are pretty powerful. ive not ridden a great deal of them though so I cant really advise you. Im sure plenty of others can though. All the best Tom
  7. weight and height dont matter, only age. as he is 13 he will have to ride a 125 if he wants to compete. If he is just looking for some fun at practice spots, he can ride whatever he wants really. Tom
  8. glad some good came out of it! piston and barrel both nackered..........great........... Tom
  9. after thinking about it, I think the head gasket may have split and compression is being lost into the water system, I cant feel any air coming out of the side of the head so its not split all the way out. Im going to whip the head off now and take a looksy. Tom
  10. I went trailing for the first time today with the trials bike. To cut a long story short the bike suddenly died (after a long stretch of road) and I assumed it was petrol, I put some more juice in and went to kick it up only to find there was little compression. does this sound like the piston rings died? if so, should it just be a simple case of putting new rings in? for those who would like to hear the rest of the story.... I walked to the local farmer to ask If I could store my bike at his farm for a couple of hours, he declined saying "no can do son", in the end I had to hide the bike in some nettles in a deep ditch (ouch). I then hitch hiked a few miles back to civilization (and bus routes) and rang up my girlfriends dad for a lift, turned out he wasnt availiable so I started the 4 mile walk home. shortly after getting off the phone, i decided to pop into the music shop for some guitar strings and was quickly reminded that I had no money. they all seemed very amused with how I was dressed etc. after leaving the music shop I saw an old friend, and quickly asked him if he could spare a couple of quid, to which he replied "only got this carrier bag full of coppers, im on the way to the bank to change them now). After waiting 10 mins for the bus, I gladly handed over the 10lb fist full of change I had recently aquired only to be told "sorry mate, dont take copper, only silver". Off I popped to the shop across the road to see if they needed some change, thankfully they obliged and I soon found myself asking a miserable bus driver "can I get to new whitt for 2 quid mate?"
  11. Dont put your feet down.... but seriously..... one tip I would give is to look after your bike. and most importantly, have tonnes of fun! Tom
  12. Something ive been meaning to ask you billy, whats the top speed like on the 125? are you worried about keeping up in the scott this year? Tom
  13. I run 3.5 in the rear and 5.5 in the front. also as for tyre wear, I run mine until they are just about road legal (2mm) makes for good practice, have to work really hard to find grip and saves you shed loads of money. I always run michelins front and rear but thats only because they are road legal, I cant comment on what other tyres are like. All the best Tom
  14. Ello Simon, the one in buxton is probably hawks nest, its
  15. Im going to swap master cylinders with a mate on sunday, hopefully it will sort it, thanks for the input people, ill keep you posted. Tom
  16. even the rev 3 turned bloody tight, too tight in my opinion, its nice to have something there to stop the front end from locking if you know what I mean. Tom
  17. I am hopeless at hopping, its something I really need to work on but I do use it from time to time, heres how I do it... learn to front hop first, rather than trying to pull the bars up with your arms, compress the suspension with your legs (bending your knee's) and snap the legs back straight, the backwards momentum coupled with having your rear brake on will lift the front, then you are free to move it left or right. try not to hop too far in one go, make lots of small hops rather than a few big ones, its easier to correct it that way. as for moving the rear, its a very useful skill to have, try it rolling first, you dont need alot of speed but that little bit helps lift the rear. a good solid rear hop can make a hell of alot of difference, I can turn 180 degree's and be facing the other way in 1 rear hop followed by 2 or 3 front hops. if you are struggling to get any height on the rear, if grip is availiable, you can blip the front up and inch or 2 and use the momentum of the bike coming down to lift the rear, its surprising how much more lift you can get from doing this. The problem I usually get is when the rear comes up high, I tend to over-do it and my body ends up too far over the right of the bike and I have to take a dab. some people take to it really easy (annoyingly) and some people (like myself) really have to work at it. All the best Tom
  18. if this was the case, wouldnt it also pass into the resevoir if the clutch was just held in and the clutch wasnt being slipped? Tom
  19. Just changed the hose over to the original standard one and its still the same =( Tom
  20. yep, put a whole new clutch pack in, they come measured up to the correct thickness. Tom
  21. Tried this and there isnt anything going back into the master cylinder, and im not losing any fluid through the slave seals either. If the clutch is pulled in and the bike is in gear, no matter how long its pulled in for, the clutch doesnt start to bite, it is only if the engine is under load. also, there is no visible swelling of the clutch hose, I find it really hard to believe it could have gone wrong after just a year and it would be a hell of a coincidence if It happened after I had worked on the bike. Still, everything else has been tried so I might aswell give it a go. In the mean time if anyone else has any thoughts on it, please post them! Cheers, Tom
  22. I have posted about this problem before in the past however I have tried a few solutions to no avail and wanted to give people an update and hopefully get some fresh idea's... My bike is a 2008 Gas Gas 300 and a strange clutch problem started happening a while back.... When the clutch is under load the clutch slowly starts to bite more and more (resulting in me having to pull the lever in more and more until it is against the bar and the clutch is fully engaged and the bike is driving forward) To try to explain it more clearly here is where its giving me problems.... lets say I have a very small run up to a rock and I have to put the front wheel against it. to balance I will drive the bike into the rock face with the front brake on, obviously because the bike cannot go forward the engine is being labored. while im doing this, the clutch is being slipped so the bike is trying to drive up the rock but It cant because the front brake is on, whilst gaining some composure and using this method to balance, the clutch plates will grab more and more as time go's on, resulting in me needing to pull the clutch lever in more to keep the "bite point", eventually (10 - 15 seconds or so depending on how hard the engine is working) the lever is all the way into the bars and the bike will drive like the clutch lever isnt pulled in at all. after releasing the clutch lever the bike rides normally again almost straight away. Heres a video to help make things easier to understand.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UJMsjLrqT4A This problem first happened when my water pump seal broke, there was water in the gearbox for anything up to 2 hours before I noticed so I changed the water pump seal and put fresh oil in. thats when the clutch problem started, I thought it must be because of the water, and the clutch plates must have swolen taking them close to their tolerance, so when heat started to build it the clutch pack, it was expanding and running out of adjustment. So naturally, I bought a new clutch pack and a gasket. after fitting both and expecting it to be fine, I quickly found that it wasnt and that the problem was exactly the same as before. I then thought it may be a hydraulic problem, So I changed the slave cylinder seals and the master cylinder seals. this still didnt solve it... It was then reccomended to me that I try using mineral oil instead of DOT4 as it may be the DOT4 thats expanding and causing problems when the clutch gets hot. so I cleaned the whole hydraulic system out with compressed air etc and put fresh mineral oil and fresh mineral oil seals in. and yep....you guessed it! still not working! so, after racking my brain I came across a sudden realisation! when I bought the water pump seal, I also asked for some oil (Motul Dexron II ATF) however the lady said that they didnt have any and that there was a "new" oil they were using in the bikes and instead gave me a bottle of Motul Transoil. Suddenly I thought that must be the problem. So I quickly flushed the engine out and replaced the oil with some new Motul Dexron II ATF but the problem was still there. I also tried 2 other types of oil with no luck. I then decided that the oil may have done something to the clutch plates so I bought yet ANOTHER clutch pack, fitted it with fresh oil (The Motul ATF). and would you believe it, the problem still persists! Im out of Idea's now, So im turning to you guys for some inspiration. the only other detail is that I have a Venhill hose on the front, But I cant see why this would pose any problems as I dont know of anyone who has had trouble with them. Heres hoping! Tom
  23. Just remember not to confuse the bike with wife...... Tom
  24. Basically, you get split into 2 groups (as far as I can remember). we got riding time with James Dabill and Dougie and Martin. they set a few sections for us all to try, and were on hand to answer any questions and give advice. Think of it more like a fun day out where you get to ride with others and meet a couple of the top lads. they also did a demo at the end which was cool. and there was an awesome bbq! All the best Tom
  25. Is there any fluid escaping from anywhere? I cant see how it could have changed if it has been stood, it may just be coincidence. if the pistons are stuck, you would still have pressure on the pedal, but it wouldnt be grabbing the rear brake so I doubt its stuck pistons. check all the banjo bolts for tightness aswell as the bleed nipple. also, make sure that the master cylinder piston is able to release fully, if it isnt doing this then its not letting new fluid back into the system which could be a reason for the poor brake. failing that, it might be a seal problem, check for brake fluid around the pistons in the caliper and the rear master cylinder. also check obvious things like the fluid resevoir is filled up! its possible that if the bike was stood in damp conditions, metal parts (including the brake hose) may have corroded and either let air in or fluit out. might be good to take the whole system off and have a good look around. Let us know how you get on, id be interested to see where the problem was! Edit: Just a tip for getting rid of stubborn air in the system, crack the banjo bolts open aswell as the bleed nipple. do it the same way as you would with the nipple but undo the banjo's slightly instead. make sure you keep pressure on the lever when you nip it up though as you will just drag air back in. back bleeding with a syringe is definately better than the conventional method too, just take the brake resevoir off and let it drain into a bucket or keep taking fluid out with a seperate syringe. Tom
 
×
  • Create New...