tombo46

If this was the problem, wouldnt the clutch start to pull after a while with the lever held in? I can hold the lever in for as long as I want but it only starts to pull if the clutch is having to work hard (like pushing it against a rock for balance), during normal riding theres no problem at all. Tom

Ive ridden it for about 15 hours with this problem and ive not lost any fluid out of the master cylinder. could it still be the slave cylinder seals? Tom

I had a pretty strange clutch problem and tried everything suggested in my other thread http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index....showtopic=23672. after holding the lever in for some time both while running and not running, and while the clutch is under load (like described in the other thread) I found that no fluid was going back into the master cylinder. So I decided to take the clutch casing off and have a good look at it all. I took the slave cylinder "top hat" off and looked at the seals, they both looked good, no tears, wear or anything like that. However one problem I found after taking the clutch basket out was that all the fingers werent level. there was a couple that were about 1 - 2mm lower than the rest. could this be the cause of my problem? Ive decided to fit a new clutch pack anyway while everything is out, im hoping somehow this will solve the problem. anyone else got any suggestions? Thanks for all your help up to now =] Tom

I was shocked when I walked into the living room to hear the word "trials riders" mentioned on Look North. Shock was soon replaced by annoyance that they were pretty much showing pit bikes etc. does your head in doesnt it! Tom

This was on Look North a couple of weeks or so back. Shame they didnt get any decent riders! Tom

I spoke to shirty the other day, apparently he really likes the Gasser and is riding it superbly. Dibs also said he likes it on his facebook. Must have been having a bad day! Tom

Also, if they are under any stress they will discolor, I think this was the reason for anodised bolts. they use them in aircraft I think so when they are discolored they need replacing! as for the problem bolt as GIZZA5 say's, an easy out will do the trick! Tom

Its pretty obvious but is your bike road registered, insured and taxed? Tom

Its always open, Jeff is a sound bloke, just pop down the driveway to the house and just to the right of the front door is a bird box, chuck your 3 quid in there and away you go. Its split into 2 parts, the top bit is plenty challenging, Craig Robinson who rides british championship struggles on some things. down the bottom is a Stream which is awesome. Im usually there from about 9am. Im in a White Transit YG53 ZVW, Riding an 98 GasGas 300 with Anodised Red Wheels. If you come, give me a shout and ill show you around. All the best Tom

I agree on the anodising, looks alot more professional!

I wasnt overly fussed on some DP pads I had recently, really rubbish in streams. ive tried them all (as far as I know) and my favorite are GoldFren. I ride a GasGas though But I wouldnt imagine it makes much difference! All the best Tom

Will do No1, Cheers. Tom

Makes sense! is it a big job? ive never had the clutch casing off before but I have the manual on how to do it. whats involved after its off? is it easy to change the seals and to bleed? Matin. Ive looked online and all the places I ride are about an hour away from you I think. where do you ride at the moment? Tom

I recently had to change the water pump seal and shaft because water was getting into my gearbox. since I put new oil in the clutch has been acting stangely. its rides normally for the most part but when my front wheel is up against a rock and Im balancing I push the bike into the rock with the clutch. Its fine for a while but after 5 or so seconds it starts to engage more and more until the lever is right against the bars and the bike is trying to drive up the rock. Is this a symptom of swollen clutch plates from the water being in the gearbox oil? if not, any idea whats causing it? Hope my description was ok, its hard to describe it accuratly! Tom

Did that too, the thing cost me about 25 quid! Tom

once since changing the seals, should I give it a run for a while, drop the oil and fill up again?

Changed the Seal in the waterpump today but the oil still seems to be going milky, any ideas? All the best Tom

Always loves Cabestany's style! Wicked Photo Tom

Hope you're right about the shaft! it was about 25 quid! Ive ordered the seal, shaft, new o-ring just in case and 4 clips, never fitted the clips before though, is there a trick to it? Tom

I doubt it would work for my riding, Im often slipping the clutch and using the rear brake at the same time. when up against rocks ill be slipping the clutch while on the brake and when doing turns I use the rear brake to control how slow or fast I go rather than the clutch. however, Would it be possible to fit it with the normal pedal aswell? if so I might be interested... Tom

I completely forgot about these video's! had them on my PC the whole time hehe. Thanks alot! Tom

Cheers matey =] Tom

oh dear! I did the same thing but not on purpose, the bearing we were getting out was nackered and the whole inside race and bearings came out when trying to get the bearing out. we ended up having to grin the outside race out. I dont know if anyone on here has a very good method for doing it but as far as im aware, your in for a long night! Tom

My gearbox oil has gone a little milky, changed it and the new stuff has too so it looks like I need a new water pump seal, does anyone know how hard this job is? is it just a simple, drain the water, take the pump off, replace seal, refit and fill back up with water and antifreeze? All the best Tom

Cheers Andy! Tom