zippy

OH that, yep did that already, Twice. The first time I was running around the back yard with the front brake dragging for a bit and wanted to know if the disk got hot yet, all I did was swipe my finger across the disk. Did not grab or hold the finger on it just swiped. Yep it was HOT!!!!!! finger quit being sore a day or two later. I am such a doofus sometimes.

copemech Posted Yesterday, 06:46 PM Zipper, You need to shock it. Hey don't just give half the info.. 110 V? 220 V? 440 V? Single phase? Three phase? Which one?

OK maybe I should have explained this first off, BIFF, I have an alergy to my footpegs OK, I am looking into medication for this, I think a beer a lap has been suggested. As far as the attraction to trees, ground, mud, and rocks.....what can I say nature just loves me. as far as my front brake goes, I am looking for better braking performance. I have done the following to the brake: new pads took apart caliper and pistons cleaned everything bled brakes well rebuilt master cylinder My problem is that I pull in front brake lever and get pressure on disk, and it is progressive to a point. pull lever = more pressure but at about half way pull lever more = same pressure and it is just not enough. Biff has ridden my bike and he can back me up on the performance of my front brake. On the flip side Biff's bike I can use 1 finger going down hill and stop on a dime, my bike 2 fingers and sqeeze hell out of it and still bypass the stupid marker on the tree that I am supposed to turn around and collect my 5 (again) I have decided to do the following: buy a 4-piston caliper (more disk area being squeezed and more pressure?) buy new brake line (possible weak spot in old one)

I am thinking of going with a new 4-piston caliper. More oomph! me thinks. and keeping the old disc. Thanks for all the replies.

Since I am not using this bike and tire in trials comps. I have decided that 25 psi and a rim lock seem to hold the tire to the rim well enough for my uses. Basically put put around yard and maybe some trail rides (slowish)

I had at one time seen a web site that explained in great detail how to drill holes in the brake discs for a 2000 Sherco. After much google searching I am unable to find it. I think it may have been an Australian site. If anyone knows the site I am looking for any info would be greatly appreciated.

You should receive your order in a few days, we had a little trouble filling the order at first due to the large volume that you ordered. I hope the ouchy is not near the area where you wear the split crotch panties, that could be right tender thar.

duct tape, bailing twine, electrical tape, and zip ties. and 1 BFH Seriously many wrenches, sockets, pliers, allen wrenches, valve stem core remover, and the above already mentioned. I don't have a trials specific toolbox so I take my all purpose everything tool box, either I am getting older or the darn thing is getting heavier. Hey cope don't pick on us late maintenence guys, Just this season I have rebuilt my front brake master and changed handlebars just before the start of a trial. Two seperate events. Maybe I will change rings at the first event of next season.

What's your buddies' E-mail? can we get a video of said kicking? I have not been to the location that the event is being held this time, but Biff never lies. (MORE GAS ZIPPY!) So should be a great event. unfortunately you would have to bring your own umbrella girls.

I find it much easier to get the tire on the rim, then climb in truck take rim and tire to bike shop, couple bucks and bike shop owner saying a few choice words later, and I go home put whole thing back on bike. Biggest problem is while the owner is seating the tire I spend time picking up a few essential items, oil, chain lube, boots, helmet, etc. etc...

I think Right said Fred had a song about this guy. "I'm too sexy"

Read the original post again. Notice the part about "this is not just about observing at world round level but includes ALL levels of competition." The rules I posted are only a couple out of our rule book it would be silly to post the entire contents, but in response we are allowed to stop with the engine running (and a foot on the ground for a score of 1 dab). Forward motion must be maintained only if engine has stalled. It is up to the observer as to what they would consider stopping. I.E. 1 second pause or more etc... again I was only showing that rules are different everywhere you go. Know what rules you are riding under. I.E. stop or no stop

aaaahhhh rules are different depending on location, country, state, city, etc.... I believe that any observer should be given a rule book for the event and or club that they are observing for. That way they have access to documented rules. Of course there is always times where intrepretation will come into play. A rule book should also be available for all riders in the trial to have access to in order to check rules. Possibly a couple copies at the sign up table. And like it or not the observer has the final say. But in general the benefit of the doubt usually goes to the rider. on the topic of sumped out on a rock: Excerpt from the 2007 MOTA trials handbook "Stalled engine: a stalled engine in a section shall not be considered a failure as long as the rider remains in balance or the bike maintains forward motion. Restarting the engine while stopped with support other than the tires shall be scored a failure. A rider may use a hand to reposition the kick-starter as long as balance is maintained." "Pushing the bike out of the section, as long as both feet are not on the same side of center of the motorcycle and forward motion is maintained, shall be scored according to the number of dabs taken." Max number of penalty points for dabs are 3. So using these two rules in the case of sumped out on a rock and stalling. If rider stops and restarts bike it is a 5. He is being supported by the skid plate on the rock not just the tires. If rider stalls and pushes bike off rock maintaining forward motion and proceeds to push bike out of the section maintaining forward motion and obeying all markers for his class he will receive a 3. I am not voicing an opinion on these rules just posting them to show that there are differences depending on location and club. All riders and observers need to know what rules the trial is operating under. That is what makes the event fair and an even test of all riders involved.

Thanks for the replies, sounds like I will have to break down and actually purchase (man that hurts to say) a new proper tubless tire that will bead out on my rim. I gotta get a bigger air compresser, and if I don't try it at home that only leaves out in public where I would look really stupid in front of people, I like to save that for when I ride a trials.

First the big debate was "stop or no stop", and hopping is evil. Now we have moved on to "toes or no toes" as many have already said if he scored all the same and did not misinterpret the rules as written then he was fair. I had a similiar decision by an observer, I was stuck on a rock, and I will admit to using my toes of both feet, while the arch of my feet were still on the pegs, to leverage myself forward enough to get the rest of the way over the rock. I was given a 2, can't remember if I put my foot down again somewhere else or not. But I believe he scored all riders the same, harsh but fair. And I thanked him at the end of the day for volunteering to stand in the woods all day and watch me make a fool of myself.

I did fill it out, I did mail it, only problem it is late. I mailed it today. Hope it not too late, but on a happy note I really enjoyed the Ohio rounds that I rode. First time ever riding a national and thouroughly ejoyed myself.

OK I am too lazy to do the search TC thing. I am trying to put a used Michilin trials tire onto the rear rim of my 1986 TLR 200 Reflex. This is my problem: the bead of the tire will not seat. It is a tubeless tire, the rim is for a tubed tire, and I have a brand new tube in said tire. Is the rim designed in such a way that is preventing the tubelss tire to seat on the rim? Or do I need more than 95 PSI to make it go "pop"

Stupid me hit the "add reply" button twice so I am now editing my second post to cover up my stupid mistake and now no one will know what I did. I am so sly.

Sam, I had heard that the property in Rose City is awesome! I am assuming (never a good thing) that the loop will be a good length, due to enduros, dual sports, and such being run on the property. If they continue the nautical theme, I would suggest a set of Scuba gear and a long snorkel for the bikes intake and exhaust. Propably gonna ride over a submarine next. It would be like a large log.

Yep that boat was great, For the Advanced class side of the boat the Metro club had sprayed some sticky, bumpy, grippy type paint at the front part of the boat so we could get some traction to get on, but at the other end no spray stuff, and it was slick to try and raise the front wheel just a little before coming off the boat. I watched a couple Experts just slide and spin on their side of the boat, it was very slick. Gotta agree though good event as always. 125 points out of a max 200 is that good? I had a blast though.

It's the hope that keeps me going.

copemech Posted Yesterday, 10:44 PM Zipper, if you will put the proper plastic cover over that thing that goes round-n-round, it will lessen the mud thrown up between the legs and into the crotch and eyes. It is not your old Mustang minibike Well now what would the fun be in that?? The muddier I am the harder I must be riding right?

HHMMM this is not the first time I have seen someone refer to this odd ritual. What exactly is this "washing the bike" I have heard so much about? isn't my 2000 sherco supposed to be dirt colored and lumpy?

Well have made my decision then: I was originally trying to get it running perfect and then sell it. it is becoming more than I want to deal with cuz it just needs to leave my garage. So I just gonna sell it.

I think that Copemech makes a very good point here. The majority of trials riders are do-it-yourselfers when it comes to maintenance and repair. I am decently mechanically inclined and if I have access to proper spares on the day of the event I can repair just about anything that may break on event day and continue to ride. The way the bikes are made now are relatively easy to diagnose the problem, if getting into throttle by wire now there are sensors, contact points, and more wires. if you crash in the water and the throttle is submerged what will that do to the throttle by wire? What I am trying to say is that the new technology is more difficult for the majority of riders to understand, the majority of riders are not 17-18 and totally interested in all things electronic. Majority I think are 25-50 and mechanically inclined. Just my opinion, and usually nobody cares anyways