woody

No R2, wrong company - my mate Colin trades as TY Offroad - John is Trail and Trials (or is it the other way around) The points you mention on the TLR are exactly those I was thinking off that need modifying to bring it up to a par with Fantics etc. for serious competition - clutch is awful (my 4RT one isn't much better, neither was my 98 315 - must be a Honda thing...) Weight I never felt was an issue, the steering I could put up with, cough stall was a nightmare if you ride without the clutch as I like to (and as the clutch is awful it's catch 22...) power delivery off tickover too quick and they wouldn't rev out, power just flattened off. All ok for sections that are none too testing but it's what needs sorting for the serious stuff. Once done they are very good - but it is a fair bit of work. Part of the enjoyment for those that like tinkering. Worth around

Just been nosing around on Todotrial Classic and noticed that there is a 6 round European championship for twinshocks this year. This is good news, not only out of interest as to who will contest it (some 'past masters maybe) but also because the events in Belgium, Germany and Holland are within reasonable travelling distance, being not too far from Calais so it is not beyond the realms of fantasy that some UK riders could take some of them in, particularly as they are all 2 day events. The first round is Aywaille, Belgium, which is already an established event. I've never ridden it but it's supposed to be an excellent trial and I really want to get there this year. Should be even better with its new championship status. England also gets a round which is the Bonanza trial in June although it is a one day event, unlike the others. I've never been there and know nothing about the venue. Anyone ever been there and know what it is like and how you think it will hold up as a venue for a trial of this status. Any rock streams, or all muddy streams and banks? Much scope for some testing sections? As far as I know there are two trials on Bonanza weekend, one closed circuit, one road based and I've know idea which of these it is intended to use. Of the two remaining rounds Italy is a bit of a hike and Austria is way too far. click here for Todotrial article

I think I'd have to agree with ferretflasher on this and say that their popularity and therefore their price has risen because they are 4-strokes, therefore a little different in a sea of 2-strokes. Also, they're a Honda and therefore associated with reliability/build quality. They are a nice looking bike too. Predominantly though, Id say it is the 4-stroke aspect. 2-stroke Hondas don't seem that sought after. The last of the 2-stroke aircooled monos with the twin discs was a cracking bike and will destroy an RTL in terms of performance in sections - but which fetches the higher price. For more serious sections such as the ACU Classic the TLR needs a bit of 'upgrading' in some areas to stay with the latest 2-stroke twinshocks but fully sorted ones are very competitve. Steve - if you fancy a Gollner KT, my mate who trades as TY Offroad will have what I think is Gollner KT for sale on his stall at the classic show this weekend. It is complete as far as I know but needs some TLC, as in it is painted all black, including the frame, but I'm sure it is a Gollner underneath. He also has a Godden framed Majesty project bike too... Sorry - couldn't resist teasing you with that

The swingarm on the Godden framed 250 Majesty is longer than the standard swingarm on the Yam framed Majesty, so chances are it is longer on the 175 too?

Yes, TYZ has alloy frame, see pic

You're asking the same question in 2 posts but yes, the TYZ is just as reliable as the aircooled TY.

TYZ was introduced in 1993, aircooled mono stopped in 1992/3. It's possible to have 1994 registered aircooled mono if it was bought new in that year, having sat around in a dealers unsold from new.

Not a 75, rear frame loop is too long. As someone's already said, a 76 or early 77 at the latest

Or a Whitehawk Mono

Can't help with the original yellow paint code but it was quite a pale shade, bit like the Ossa Gripper shade. If you're not too bothered about the correct shade, paint code RAL1021 (or Number 3, depending on which powder coaters you use) is a richer, deeper yellow, like a Beamish and also is a good match for the yellow mudguards that are available (Gonelli, Stilmoto, Beta Rev 3 front, Pattern Yam rear in yellow) I know the guards were white originally but if you were thinking of doing it all yellow that paint code matches pretty well with those guards in yellow. The original paint shade would be too pale. How are you getting along with the rebuild? Are you going for an original finish on it? Mine is nearly done but not in time for the opening round of the Classic in Cornwall although I'm not too bothered about missing that one. It will be done for Bootle. See you at the show next week I imagine. In response to another question, I think Majesty colour schemes were something along these lines; Yamaha framed bikes - yellow frame, yellow tank/white guards red tank decals Early Godden Framed bikes yellow frame, white tank/white guards yellow tank decals Some Godden Framed bikes chrome or nickel plated frame (don't know which) white tank/white guards yellow tank decals Last of the Godden framed bikes were red frames as Yamaha wanted them to be in what had become Yam corporate colours of red/white, white tank/white guards red tank decals. These also had no rear frame loop over the mudguard This is not absolute and I could be wrong in part.

made of nothing ????????????????????????

it will say tubed or tubeless on the sidewall

Yep, TYZ front end, subframe, rear mudguard, swingarm and rear wheel. Rear silencer possibly. No idea what the frame is though. Who said TYZ frame....?? Go to the back of the class

Another beautiful finish. Glad some of the mods I mentioned came in useful. Nice job on the footrest hangers too.

Can't help you with the settings, but that looks like a very nice finish on your bike and it's crying out to be shown off with some more pictures.

H - Heavy O - Old N - Nails D - Dreadfully A - Asthmatic Only joking, they're not that bad but not the best by a long way without mods. Although I said every bit of Lejeune's bike before, it wasn't a production bike so I'd have to go with a Fantic 240 or a Majesty 320 as best twinshock available to Joe Public. Can't think that you could mix and match parts from other bikes to get a combination significantly better. Being an Ossa fan I would nominate a MAR but as the post was to suggest the combination of parts to achieve the perfect twinshock I have to keep it realistic. The MAR was way beyond perfection

If you enjoyed the trial at Luxeuil you will definitely enjoy Joel's 2 day trial at Acheteaux-Roide near Montbelliard on 15/16 July. I have ridden it several times and will be there again this year. Good sections and a great variety of twinshock and Pre65 bikes

A 199b 340 Sherpa not much rev...?? You're joking You should have been over here a few years ago to watch a bloke called Dave Hooke ride his 340 in the twinshock championship. Could that bike sing a high tune or what. Having witnessed it on many occassions it makes me wince to think about it even now, but it took all the abuse thrown at it and just kept going. In fact, it is featured on one of the CJB round up videos from about '93 when he achieves a very rare clean on a hideously boggy section in the Cheltenham round - flat out in 4th for the entire section. Draws praise from a certain Mr Saunders who is co-commentating. Ah... those were the days. Nice - Like it

You may be worrying about a problem that won't affect you in sections. I snap the throttle open on my C15 to kill the engine which it does quite effectively as it's quicker than going for the kill switch (that I haven't yet fitted anyway...) In sections however, I never have to open the throttle that quick that the engine cough stalls. I'd wager you are less than likely to ride pre65 sections where you have to yank the throttle open that hard so possibly the situation may not arise in sections. As someone has already said though, depends on what you mean by 'snap' and how hard you're pulling it (stifle the giggles please) and ideally you need to compare the same action on someone else's bike that you know performs well. I've been told that the villiers carbs people are using, as fitted to Mick's Honda - sorry cub are reworked on the inside. A bit like fiddle forks perhaps. I've no first hand knowledge on this but I was told by someone who I believe. Mick's bike certainly isn't lacking in top end power, or anywhere else for that matter.

There have been one or two posted on here in the past, just search on Lejeune in the Honda forum and you should find the topics with them in

Have to admit, I would have assumed, as you did, (or not even given it a thought in my case) that the NZI carbon helmet was ACU approved. However, there are many events that are not governed by the ACU, therefore I guess there is no need for them to be ACU approved - they will be marketed worldwide too so they must be constructed to some type of international standard before they could go on sale. So I would guess that you won't get any joy asking for an outright refund as you didn't specifically ask about ACU approval. No harm in asking though, but I'd have thought that if you wanted to exchange it for another make from them that is approved, they would be willing to take it back. In terms of having someone check the helmet at a trial, I've never known this to happen - doesn't even seem to happen at enduros anymore as I think it is deemed rider's responsibility - onus off the club if anything goes wrong and they can't be sued for passing a suspect helmet in today's 'sue the b*stards' focussed society. If you used it in an ACU run event though and you did injure your head through the helmet not doing it's job properly, I would guess that you would not be covered by the ACU insurance. AMCA and other non-ACU events wouldn't present a problem but I'm guessing most of your events are ACU. There are plenty of riders out there using those helmets but they probably haven't given it a thought. Now that you have, you are never going to be comnfortable using it 'just in case' so may be worth asking Millers if they will have it back on exchange. The local BMCA mob over this way (AMCA governed) still don't wear helmets and I just can't believe it in this day and age. If any of them were to crack their heads (and it comes close on occassions I can tell you) and suffered serious injury I don't know how it would affect the sport, but in terms of image it wouldn't be good - 'irresponsible biker injured through not wearing helmet etc.' I sometimes used to ride without one before it was compulsory but no way these days - plus I'm more clumsy now...

If you've already got the tyre then I'd just give it a go. I doubt it will drop off the rim completely and if only a small section of it drops in you can still ride with it, it won't finish your practice session/trial. Just start at about 5psi and gradually drop it. Only way to know really is to try it as I guess you can't guarantee all rims/tyres will behave the same. Re; TrialsRfun - Security Bolts - Positioning of the security bolts didn't make any difference to the IRC dropping partly into the well of the Yam rim as it was a different part of the tyre each time, sometimes right next to the security bolt. The tyre never had time to creep as it dropped in very soon after starting to ride. Blow it up and pop it back out, let it down again to about 4psi and it would drop in again. Gave up and fitted the Michelin tubed type. No problem on the Ossa which has the same rim as your Bult.

Dale, thought I'd answered for you (as best I can) IRC tubeless will stay on an Akront rim at 3 - 4 psi with no problem, but on the Yam rim it slips into the well on one side for a length of about 6 inches. It does this consistently and not always in the same place. This suggests there may be a problem running a tubeless tyre on the Yam rim, although I haven't tried a Michelin. We have run a Michelin tubeless with no problem on an Akront rim. A friend of mine ran a Michelin tubeless on a Beamish with no problem but no idea of the type of rim on a Beamish. Only way to be really sure is to try it but it is a gamble of course - it may be ok on your rim, but as I mentioned before, I can't see that a tubeless Michelin with a tube in it is going to offer any advantage over a normal tube type - unless they are coming to you considerably cheaper of course. Only reason I used the tubeless IRC was because of the different construction (or, more accurately, the apparent difference in sidewall construction to me) which meant the tubeless performed better as I could run it a lower pressure without it rolling on the sidewall.

Every single bit of Lejeunes works RTL360 Honda

The rear silencer isn't packed (assuming it is the small bullet shaped one) they have baffles, so nothing to repack in that. If it is the later, long tube type with exit holes underneath I've never done one so can't comment. To repack the middle silencer is the stuff of nightmares as it is fiddley to say the least. The perforated tube is attached (welded) in at both ends so you can't just cut one end off and slide it out. The way I did it was to cut open the body (just the cylindrical bit)lengthways by cutting two slots down each welded seam on either side. I then cut around the body at each end so that the body came away in 2 halves. Now, the silencer is is still in one piece except that the guts are exposed in the middle - looks a bit like a fish that has had the body eaten and the head and tail are still on.... (it's late and I was up very early...) Make sure that whatever you use to cut it open leaves a very narrow cut, otherwise the edges won't meet when you come to put it back together. I use the super thin cutting discs in an angle grinder. They leave a very thin and clean cut. I also found that they are extremely efficient at slicing through a human thumb knuckle down through the bone almost to the point of it being severed, so quickly that there is no pain and you won't even know you've done it until you see the blood on the floor and think to yourself - where did that come from? Another month off the bike. Anyway, I digress. Now the fun bit. Whatever it was packed with originally has a length of wire wrapped around it several times. So in order to remove the old packing you will also have to cut away the wire and it can be a pain in the neck. Similar to removing wire you've run over from your back wheel. Once it is all removed you will probably have to clean out all the holes in the tube which will be blocked with carbon. How you proceed next depends on what packing you use. I use silent sport string/wool type so I replace one half of the body by tacking it back in place and then stuff it full of packing. I then tack the other half on but with a couple of tacks only so I can bend it open and shut like a flap/door. With the door open enough to get the packing in, I then stuff the remainder of the silencer with packing and then 'close the door' on it and tack it shut. Then weld it all up. Be careful as the metal is thin and easy to blow holes in it. If you are a competent welder and know what you are doing this won't be a problem. The fact that I'm telling you about it tells everyone else that I'm not a welder by trade and much swearing and screaming accompanied my efforts to weld it up without making it look like swiss cheese and playing chase the hole (steady...)with the MIG. How much packing you stuff it with is personal choice. I pack it reasonably tight but not crammed in to bursting otherwise it doesn't work as efficiently as it should. If you use the wrap around sheets then you can wrap them around the perforated tube and then replace both halves at once and weld them back up. Hope this helps. It definitely made a difference to my bikes when I did them, not only to noise levels but made them run much smoother at the bottom end of the revs again.