woody

Yes, TYZ has alloy frame, see pic

You're asking the same question in 2 posts but yes, the TYZ is just as reliable as the aircooled TY.

TYZ was introduced in 1993, aircooled mono stopped in 1992/3. It's possible to have 1994 registered aircooled mono if it was bought new in that year, having sat around in a dealers unsold from new.

Not a 75, rear frame loop is too long. As someone's already said, a 76 or early 77 at the latest

Or a Whitehawk Mono

Can't help with the original yellow paint code but it was quite a pale shade, bit like the Ossa Gripper shade. If you're not too bothered about the correct shade, paint code RAL1021 (or Number 3, depending on which powder coaters you use) is a richer, deeper yellow, like a Beamish and also is a good match for the yellow mudguards that are available (Gonelli, Stilmoto, Beta Rev 3 front, Pattern Yam rear in yellow) I know the guards were white originally but if you were thinking of doing it all yellow that paint code matches pretty well with those guards in yellow. The original paint shade would be too pale. How are you getting along with the rebuild? Are you going for an original finish on it? Mine is nearly done but not in time for the opening round of the Classic in Cornwall although I'm not too bothered about missing that one. It will be done for Bootle. See you at the show next week I imagine. In response to another question, I think Majesty colour schemes were something along these lines; Yamaha framed bikes - yellow frame, yellow tank/white guards red tank decals Early Godden Framed bikes yellow frame, white tank/white guards yellow tank decals Some Godden Framed bikes chrome or nickel plated frame (don't know which) white tank/white guards yellow tank decals Last of the Godden framed bikes were red frames as Yamaha wanted them to be in what had become Yam corporate colours of red/white, white tank/white guards red tank decals. These also had no rear frame loop over the mudguard This is not absolute and I could be wrong in part.

made of nothing ????????????????????????

it will say tubed or tubeless on the sidewall

Yep, TYZ front end, subframe, rear mudguard, swingarm and rear wheel. Rear silencer possibly. No idea what the frame is though. Who said TYZ frame....?? Go to the back of the class

Another beautiful finish. Glad some of the mods I mentioned came in useful. Nice job on the footrest hangers too.

Can't help you with the settings, but that looks like a very nice finish on your bike and it's crying out to be shown off with some more pictures.

H - Heavy O - Old N - Nails D - Dreadfully A - Asthmatic Only joking, they're not that bad but not the best by a long way without mods. Although I said every bit of Lejeune's bike before, it wasn't a production bike so I'd have to go with a Fantic 240 or a Majesty 320 as best twinshock available to Joe Public. Can't think that you could mix and match parts from other bikes to get a combination significantly better. Being an Ossa fan I would nominate a MAR but as the post was to suggest the combination of parts to achieve the perfect twinshock I have to keep it realistic. The MAR was way beyond perfection

If you enjoyed the trial at Luxeuil you will definitely enjoy Joel's 2 day trial at Acheteaux-Roide near Montbelliard on 15/16 July. I have ridden it several times and will be there again this year. Good sections and a great variety of twinshock and Pre65 bikes

A 199b 340 Sherpa not much rev...?? You're joking You should have been over here a few years ago to watch a bloke called Dave Hooke ride his 340 in the twinshock championship. Could that bike sing a high tune or what. Having witnessed it on many occassions it makes me wince to think about it even now, but it took all the abuse thrown at it and just kept going. In fact, it is featured on one of the CJB round up videos from about '93 when he achieves a very rare clean on a hideously boggy section in the Cheltenham round - flat out in 4th for the entire section. Draws praise from a certain Mr Saunders who is co-commentating. Ah... those were the days. Nice - Like it

You may be worrying about a problem that won't affect you in sections. I snap the throttle open on my C15 to kill the engine which it does quite effectively as it's quicker than going for the kill switch (that I haven't yet fitted anyway...) In sections however, I never have to open the throttle that quick that the engine cough stalls. I'd wager you are less than likely to ride pre65 sections where you have to yank the throttle open that hard so possibly the situation may not arise in sections. As someone has already said though, depends on what you mean by 'snap' and how hard you're pulling it (stifle the giggles please) and ideally you need to compare the same action on someone else's bike that you know performs well. I've been told that the villiers carbs people are using, as fitted to Mick's Honda - sorry cub are reworked on the inside. A bit like fiddle forks perhaps. I've no first hand knowledge on this but I was told by someone who I believe. Mick's bike certainly isn't lacking in top end power, or anywhere else for that matter.

There have been one or two posted on here in the past, just search on Lejeune in the Honda forum and you should find the topics with them in

Have to admit, I would have assumed, as you did, (or not even given it a thought in my case) that the NZI carbon helmet was ACU approved. However, there are many events that are not governed by the ACU, therefore I guess there is no need for them to be ACU approved - they will be marketed worldwide too so they must be constructed to some type of international standard before they could go on sale. So I would guess that you won't get any joy asking for an outright refund as you didn't specifically ask about ACU approval. No harm in asking though, but I'd have thought that if you wanted to exchange it for another make from them that is approved, they would be willing to take it back. In terms of having someone check the helmet at a trial, I've never known this to happen - doesn't even seem to happen at enduros anymore as I think it is deemed rider's responsibility - onus off the club if anything goes wrong and they can't be sued for passing a suspect helmet in today's 'sue the b*stards' focussed society. If you used it in an ACU run event though and you did injure your head through the helmet not doing it's job properly, I would guess that you would not be covered by the ACU insurance. AMCA and other non-ACU events wouldn't present a problem but I'm guessing most of your events are ACU. There are plenty of riders out there using those helmets but they probably haven't given it a thought. Now that you have, you are never going to be comnfortable using it 'just in case' so may be worth asking Millers if they will have it back on exchange. The local BMCA mob over this way (AMCA governed) still don't wear helmets and I just can't believe it in this day and age. If any of them were to crack their heads (and it comes close on occassions I can tell you) and suffered serious injury I don't know how it would affect the sport, but in terms of image it wouldn't be good - 'irresponsible biker injured through not wearing helmet etc.' I sometimes used to ride without one before it was compulsory but no way these days - plus I'm more clumsy now...

If you've already got the tyre then I'd just give it a go. I doubt it will drop off the rim completely and if only a small section of it drops in you can still ride with it, it won't finish your practice session/trial. Just start at about 5psi and gradually drop it. Only way to know really is to try it as I guess you can't guarantee all rims/tyres will behave the same. Re; TrialsRfun - Security Bolts - Positioning of the security bolts didn't make any difference to the IRC dropping partly into the well of the Yam rim as it was a different part of the tyre each time, sometimes right next to the security bolt. The tyre never had time to creep as it dropped in very soon after starting to ride. Blow it up and pop it back out, let it down again to about 4psi and it would drop in again. Gave up and fitted the Michelin tubed type. No problem on the Ossa which has the same rim as your Bult.

Dale, thought I'd answered for you (as best I can) IRC tubeless will stay on an Akront rim at 3 - 4 psi with no problem, but on the Yam rim it slips into the well on one side for a length of about 6 inches. It does this consistently and not always in the same place. This suggests there may be a problem running a tubeless tyre on the Yam rim, although I haven't tried a Michelin. We have run a Michelin tubeless with no problem on an Akront rim. A friend of mine ran a Michelin tubeless on a Beamish with no problem but no idea of the type of rim on a Beamish. Only way to be really sure is to try it but it is a gamble of course - it may be ok on your rim, but as I mentioned before, I can't see that a tubeless Michelin with a tube in it is going to offer any advantage over a normal tube type - unless they are coming to you considerably cheaper of course. Only reason I used the tubeless IRC was because of the different construction (or, more accurately, the apparent difference in sidewall construction to me) which meant the tubeless performed better as I could run it a lower pressure without it rolling on the sidewall.

Every single bit of Lejeunes works RTL360 Honda

The rear silencer isn't packed (assuming it is the small bullet shaped one) they have baffles, so nothing to repack in that. If it is the later, long tube type with exit holes underneath I've never done one so can't comment. To repack the middle silencer is the stuff of nightmares as it is fiddley to say the least. The perforated tube is attached (welded) in at both ends so you can't just cut one end off and slide it out. The way I did it was to cut open the body (just the cylindrical bit)lengthways by cutting two slots down each welded seam on either side. I then cut around the body at each end so that the body came away in 2 halves. Now, the silencer is is still in one piece except that the guts are exposed in the middle - looks a bit like a fish that has had the body eaten and the head and tail are still on.... (it's late and I was up very early...) Make sure that whatever you use to cut it open leaves a very narrow cut, otherwise the edges won't meet when you come to put it back together. I use the super thin cutting discs in an angle grinder. They leave a very thin and clean cut. I also found that they are extremely efficient at slicing through a human thumb knuckle down through the bone almost to the point of it being severed, so quickly that there is no pain and you won't even know you've done it until you see the blood on the floor and think to yourself - where did that come from? Another month off the bike. Anyway, I digress. Now the fun bit. Whatever it was packed with originally has a length of wire wrapped around it several times. So in order to remove the old packing you will also have to cut away the wire and it can be a pain in the neck. Similar to removing wire you've run over from your back wheel. Once it is all removed you will probably have to clean out all the holes in the tube which will be blocked with carbon. How you proceed next depends on what packing you use. I use silent sport string/wool type so I replace one half of the body by tacking it back in place and then stuff it full of packing. I then tack the other half on but with a couple of tacks only so I can bend it open and shut like a flap/door. With the door open enough to get the packing in, I then stuff the remainder of the silencer with packing and then 'close the door' on it and tack it shut. Then weld it all up. Be careful as the metal is thin and easy to blow holes in it. If you are a competent welder and know what you are doing this won't be a problem. The fact that I'm telling you about it tells everyone else that I'm not a welder by trade and much swearing and screaming accompanied my efforts to weld it up without making it look like swiss cheese and playing chase the hole (steady...)with the MIG. How much packing you stuff it with is personal choice. I pack it reasonably tight but not crammed in to bursting otherwise it doesn't work as efficiently as it should. If you use the wrap around sheets then you can wrap them around the perforated tube and then replace both halves at once and weld them back up. Hope this helps. It definitely made a difference to my bikes when I did them, not only to noise levels but made them run much smoother at the bottom end of the revs again.

I know the one you mean. Nothing wrong with that though as they were around when twinshocks were current. Just managed to source one for my bike but no idea if it is any good yet. Probably not knowing my luck. Back on the topic, be nice to see some of these SWMs in the Classic series this year. Only one that makes the odd appearance is Chris Dark on his blue framed 280. Wonder if the Jumbo that was on ebay a few weeks back was ever sold. It never made reserve and wasn't relisted. Looked in very nice condition too. Ideal bike for the Phil King round of the Classic with those BIG muddy climbs - if it's wet...

Falcon sets the Nitrogen gas pressure at 90psi

This will be of interest to anyone who has to use Birmingham licencing office to register an old bike. Went there on Thursday to register my C15. Had the MOT (from the day before)insurance certificate, driving licence (as it is the old non-photograph version you also need a utility or credit card bill as proof of address) completed V55 and a dating certificate from the Vintage Motorcycle Club (who are authorised to date old machines by DVLA)confirming the age as 1959. Whilst I was waiting to be called to the counter a memner of staff was doing the rounds checking that all paperwork etc. was in order before people got to the counter. She told me I would need to get the bike inspected. I thought we'll wait and see what the guy behind the counter says. Everything was in order but he said it would need to be inspected. I asked why and I got the predictable 'that's the procedure' reply. Asked to speak to the manager who promptly arrived and confirmed the same. No exceptions, it must be inspected. I pointed out that I had proof of age from an authorised body and an MOT confirming that the bike complied with the necessary regulations for a vehicle of that age. The inspection, I was told is not to 'MOT' it or examine its condition, merely to verify that it is what I'm claiming it is and that the details given are correct - ie; that the frame number on the bike matches the one I had given and that the bike was what I said it was. This, I was told, is DVLA policy and that all centres should do it (after I pointed out that not everyone has their bike inspected) No exceptions is the rule. So if you are registering at Birmingham, the chances are you will need to get it inspected before they will issue a registration number. To their credit, when I explained that I was unable to get any more time off to take the bike they agreed for someone to come to the house to inspect it. PS Anyone had an MOT under the new computerised system. Is this progress? 5 minutes to perform the MOT - 40 minutes waiting for the computer to get a response from wherever as authorisation to print off the certificate. And it is like that every time, that wasn't a one off slow response. It's halved the number of MOT tests this place can do....

It's a very good venue but any trial depends upon how it is used. It is mainly wooded bankings which offer big climbs, cambered climbs, mud holes etc. with potential for big open and flowing sections. If the sections are right 4th gear could be in play on some, depends on what the weather does with the ground. If it's wet, then it's very slippy. I've ridden it several times, it usually takes a few marks and hopefully the sections will again be of the open variety rather than tight up your own jacksy, hinge required in bike crap. There are a couple of muddy streams running through it, one has a few rocks but obviously we're not talking Yorkshire standard rockery here. Hopefully 2 laps of 20 sections again, it's always been a good event but obviously nothing is guaranteed. If you like only dry rocky going or rocky streams then maybe not for you, but if you like getting the bike wound up in slippery going then give it a try. It has been used as a group in previous Vic Brittain trials. Re; Earl Shilton, I was speaking to someone at a trial last week and they mentioned that you need a hinge in your bike to ride their events as they are a bit on the tight side. Now I've never ridden there so don't know but that is what was said, but obviously it was only that person's personal opinion.