woody

According to a mate of mine who works at a platers/anodisers, anything with steel in or attached to it can't be done unless all steel is removed. I couldn't get my bottom fork yoke anodised unless the stem was pressed out first. Can't help you as to whether you can remove those redundant bits though

That's something else she's going to kill you for when she finds you've divulged it on a public forum.....

I can honestly say, that YZ426 I had never needed the shims doing once, so I wouldn't worry too much as the trials engine won't take anywhere near the punishment of the YZ.

The 4RT 'brain' for fuel or ignition can't be remapped. If you want to get involved in altering the power characteristics by remapping you need to buy the replacement module or whatever it that's needed.

Car exhaust fumes fed into the tank kill the petrol vapour and enable the tank to be welded. Don't ask me how, I just know two alloy welders that use this method to repair tanks and they are both still alive and have all of their hair, eyelids and eyebrows....

You've never had an ignition failure then.... I'd agree though, the smoothness of the Beta engine low down is second to none of the modern bikes. Not a hint of snatch of jekiness on the 02 I had, or others I've ridden.

You shouldn't need them with a Yamaha...... I ran a YZ426 for nearly 3 years in H & H and enduros and when we finally stripped it to put a new cam chain in we found it didn't need it. The engine was still like new inside. Couldn't fault the quality of it. Being a Yam fan for many years it's going to be hard to resist this Scorpa, especially if Mr Birkett is involved in it's development. Should be one heck of a clubman bike.

In addition to the reed spacer, retard the ignition all the way as a friend of mine did that to his and it really softened it off without any loss of 'go'.

Any news on the Sorpa 4T from French world round?

Forgot to mention about Craig as well although I don't think he has any of the smaller Majesty engine parts, mainly 250/320 stuff, but this is his website with contact details. http://www.yamaha-majesty.com

I think there is more than one piston that cab be used. Have you tried asking Shirt's as I've heard other people say they are still helpful with Majesty queries. If no luck with Shirt's try Dave Renham at Bultaco UK as the piston used in Whitehawk 200 was maybe from a 238cc Bultaco - 70mm bore I think (not the earlier full 250cc Bult) Don't know offhand if it needed a new oversize liner and any other mods or whether it was a straightforward fit. Nigel Birkett should also know if no-one on the forum knows for sure and you're stuck

I'd double check on the anodising of the hubs as I've been told that anything with any magnesium in it won't anodise, and being Honda hubs they may well have magnesium in them. I've no idea whether this is correct or not, just what I was told when I wanted some Yam hubs anodised, so just thought I'd mention it.

After all that I've now gone and found the original haven't I. So had a quick mess with it last night. Now all I have to get it to do is spark.......

Thanks for all the help guys, looks like I do have the correct inlet manifold thingy so hopefully, this weekend, we shall have life...... or tears

Thanks for the help guys. Looks like my manifold/inlet bit is the same as those in your pictures. It could be that someone has remade the airbox which is why it appears not to line up fully but it is only a bit out so should fit with a bit of tweaking. The only thing I can't identify is the object on the far right of your picture TLRS - what is that as not sure I have one - may be in a box somewhere Mark - Central Wheel in Coleshill can make you spokes in various design/pattern if you send them an old one. They have to make the nipples too though as they can't do metric threads I believe.

Thanks for that Mark - the old card and tape method eh... effective isn't it, I've made a couple of airboxes like that. I'm glad you said there is nothing in it as I want to have a go at making one for mine and it is easier if there are no internals. The one fitted to the bike is quite neat but it is steel and I'd like an alloy one. Must get it running first though...

Trying to finish builing the box of bits I got that was once a Seeley. Put the engine in the frame and last week and went to fit the carb and found I had no inlet gasket/stub/mounting - whatever you call it. I got one from an RS200 yesterday as they look to have the same carb positioning as the Seeley and have the same hose from the airbox to carb inlet. Tried to fit it all up on the Seeley and the hose didn't seem to want to line up too well from the airbox to carb. It may be because the airbox doesn't appear to be original and has been made so maybe it is out a bit because of this. I've attached a copy of the inlet stub from the RS200. Before I carry on trying to make it all fit with what is the wrong stub, if any of you have a chance can you have a look at your Seeley and see if it is the same as this one. Thanks

Riding without the clutch has nothng to do with 2-stroke / 4-stroke riding style. There are plenty of 2-strokes that can be ridden without the clutch all of the time, although on any bike you'll need it in real nadgery stuff. I just don't like to be on it all the time. It's all subjective as it depends on how you like to ride, but my 05 280 pro was different from my mate's 04. It was less smooth, quicker off the throttle and had a different exhaust note. Riding on low revs it was difficult to ride without the clutch as the bike wanted to leap ahead and the power was jerky. This is on a whiff of throttle. If your style is point and squirt, dip the clutch/brakes then go again you won't notice it. My mate's 05 250 was the same but with the weight fitted it can be dropped to nothing and will happily plonk up sections clutchless.

PERCE - be worth getting a go on one fitted with the flywheel weight if you can as although it improves the rideabilty a good deal at the bottom end the engine lost none of its pickup, not sluggish by any means, it just smoothed everything out - best of both worlds. I liked it a lot and generally I hate the way most modern bikes ride off the throttle. I know what you mean about the carb to airbox fit. Took me ages to figure out I wasn't doing anything wrong the first time I was refitting it, it's just how they are.... There is no way you can achieve the same result by jetting as you can with the flywheel weight. If I'm wrong I'll eat an old airfilter. I'd hardly call it messing about either, just a simple bolt on job instead of hours messing with the carb by trial and error. I know the weight works as I've ridden the bike before and after - and a good few motocross/enduro bikes too.

I've ridden a friend's 05 250 Pro with the flywheel weight - before and after. I didn't like the bike at all when he first had it, almost impossible to ride without the clutch, engine far to snatchy and lumpy. which made it very difficult to shut off and then just feed the throttle in again, always had to slip the clutch. And yes it stalled easily too, as did the 05 280 Pro I had briefly, just stalled for no reason. This wasn't because it was new either, it was like this long after it was run in. With the flywheel weight fitted there was a noticeable difference. It can now be ridden on the throttle very slowly with no snatch or lumpiness, the flywheel weight has ironed all that out. Engine can now be backed right off and brought in again slowly - you've time to think and are not chasing it anymore. Doesn't stall for no reason anymore either. In my opinion well worth fitting and much better than the head spacer kit. I fitted one of those to the 280 and it was barely noticeable, if at all. In fact, a mate did it for me when he borrowed the bike and if I didn't know better I have said he hadn't done it.... Can't comment on how difficult it was to fit but I've put them on enduro bikes before and they are pretty straight forward. You may have to remove the flywheel to do it though, I think he mentioned, so you'll need a puller.

TLR250 barrel and piston just about impossible to find I'd guess. I'm interested in what can be done as I have a TLR200 which I got cheap but needs some work. I was thinking about using either it or the Majesty in the Classic series next year to replace the ailing Ossa. I think a well set up TLR will just edge a Majesty but I could do with a bit more power/torque than the 200 has. All pipe dreams at the moment as the Majesty has to be finished first, but after that, maybe. I'd love to get one to 270, or 300..... Anyway, good luck with the 210 conversion. For a TLR200 or something else?

TLRS - Thanks for that info. Sounds suspisciously like you may have done something like this at some time. Have you converted a 200 to a bigger bore/stroke?

Nice job, just out of interest what is in it? Empty, a baffle, or core with packing? Any idea what is in the middle box? Griffiths - any news on what's in that exhaust Interested to know as my Seely has a non-standard box on it. Neatly done but steel and I'd like to get one done in Alloy eventually. I can cut it open to see how it is done, that's no problem but just interested to know what you've done inside yours. I'm also interested in hearing what mine sounds like if I can ever get around to getting it running....

No problem, just glad if I can be of any help and hope you solve your problem. Although I own and like my Mont 4RT I like the Sherco too and hope they relosve the little niggles they seem to have. Nothing like a bit of variety out there in the sections. Sounds like a novel solution you may have found to your hot starting problem. You ought to post that on Thumpertalk as mulling that one over would keep them busy for days

Took the hotstart button out and had a look. It is just a simple pull/push plunger that sits in an inlet tube which is 8mm in diameter and about 1 and a half centimetres deep - although this depth is irrelavent really as it depends on the design of the carb. At the end of this tube is another which looks to be 5 - 6mm diameter but I have no idea where that goes - presumably into the carb inlet itself. The plunger I guess uncovers a jet somewhere in the side of the 8mm tube to allow cold air in - couldn't see into it properly but I can't see any other way it works. This jet must be open to the atmosphere somehow, presumably through one of the many pipes that come off the 426 carb. I guess the remote handlebar fitted hotstart wouldn't need the additional internal jetting/plumbing, just the inlet, as the valve which opens the inlet to the atmosphere is on the handledar mechanism and connected to the inlet via the pipe. The kit can be bought from any motocross/enduro retailer but they aren't cheap - about