nzralphy

Noting wrong with the grey coloured plug - run 'em rich to keep them from stalling and give good throttle pickup. I've never ever ever ever got a good plug colour reading from a trials bike. If you manage it please let us know how to get it. Modern fuel doesn't seem to give a good plug or tail pipe colour..... Or am I just dreaming? Ride your bike it is fine Ralphy

Have you had the carb appart earlier?.... If so you may have the CV bellows boot pinched as they are a SOB to put together properly. As above, raise the needle all the way( lower the clip to the bottom groove) to get a stronger richer midrange

Yes I do this to every bike in the first week I own them. You have to keep the front brake pads in good order so the one finger pull is enough. Don't cut off as much as you think you should as it can't be undone ) Also don't forget to push the leaver clamps inward so that you have the maximum leverage to the leaver I normally cut off the ball end plus 10mm. Then bend the end of a leaver around a mandrel or a bolt clamped in a vice to get a small section to become a 'hook'. But..... getting the original alloy leaver to bend is a HUGE challenge..... Most of the time it cracks.... Try heating the end of the leaver with a blow torch to try and get the temper out of the alloy.... And if it cracks you will have to have it welded. Also do you know you can get Beta "shorty" leavers. They are very good and work just fine doing just what you want. Then you can keep your standard leavers as spares

Wrong. It works very well. No warning needed thanks

The bike is fine. 4 th & 5 the gears are higher geared so you can trail ride between sections.

Quad bikes use very low pressure so use one of their gauges

Hi. Getting to the back side of a seal and pushing is best. When we can't do this at work we put a hole through the side of the seal ( drill it or punch a flat screwdriver through it) and use a seal pick to "dig" the little bugger out. It sounds brutal but the seal is just a lightweight metal pressing covered in rubber. Smear a bit of grease onto the seal befor you push it into the hole. ALWAYS take a photo before you start..... So you can put the seal in the right way round. Done that.

MATE...!!!!...stop it. "My bad" is grammatically worthless. Listen to the words you use and try "my mistake" ;o) Argument anyone.....

Holley sh!t...... They obviously didn't give a monkeys when they were developing the bike

I've cleaned mid section by sloshing petrol through it. But REMEMBER to let it breath over night to get last vapours out

Hi umm I could be wrong but I don't think there is a head gasket as standard.

+1 There are two ways to get two stroke CR. I think your maths is out somewhere and don't think CR will be lowered by 1/3

When i had a 270 I retarded the ignition timing about 3-4mm and it ran a loot smoother at lower revs. I also removed the head and piston to polish (400/800/1200 emery then Autosol polish) the head & piston (both to a nice shine) then put in an iridium plug and it started and ran WAY better. To lower the compression..... Some say putting in a base gasket moves the port timing up the rev range but you'll actually not feel much difference.

http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/25302-beta-4t-jitsie-carb-screw/ http://www.trialendurodirect.com/products/Jitsie_Beta_REV4T_carburettor_air_screw_569.html http://www.trialendurodirect.com/index.php?manufacturers=39&sort=&filter=12

Just to be sure the valves haven't touched the piston and need replacing..... I'd be removing the cylinder head.

Middle clip position is factory position I think. I've put my clip on the bottom clip to raise the needle. Hey be very careful to put the rubber diaphragm back in correctly as they a bitch to put in. Approx 2.5 - 2.75 turns out for the mixture screw. Let us know how it runs

The orings are likely to be ok. If you take the head off you'll likely need a head gasket. If I remember you can take the cam out without removing the head. Put the piston at TDC and mark the chain and cam sprocket with a dot of white paint where they line up with the head before you start. It makes easy assembly.

Mine fan never ran all the time. Perhaps you have a radiator thermo switch which is a little off where it should be. Get a new one or borrow one for a test. The Beta 4t bikes are shipped lean to pass emissions testing. Raise the needle 2 notches and the bike will run and start amazing. I did and it does. Ralphy

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks

It is worth trying what billy says. however, I tried this and it made little difference.... But then raised the needle two notches and it ran WAY better. They are lean in the mid range to pass emissions - I think the emission test is around 3-5000rpm

If a kill button doesn't work at high revs...... Why would this work?

30 would be right if you have quality oil and mostly ride lower-mid revs. If you rev the tits off it then 15-20 sounds right

Broken ribs a few times...... Major crash on road bike. Major crash(s) DH mountain biking - god I've crashed sooo many times. Major crash on a slick slope on the Trials bike into a ditch. Broken third finger during the SSDT - I taped it to another and finished )

Hi. Your bike has two suspension adjustments on the front & back. Spring tension and rebound damping. Spring tension should be set with you on the bike to 1/3 sag. Get a friend to help & wear your riding gear. Measure and test a few times cos there is some stiction in the system. Stand on the bike all-normal-like and measure how far it has sagged from fully extended (lift the bike off the ground). Adjust and recheck. Check this every few months and after eating a pies ;o) Yes there should be some sag without you on the bike, but it isn't 1/10th as important as getting the riding sag correct. Do the same with the front suspension. Turn the damping adjuster right in and try it. Too slow eh? Turn the adjuster right out. Too fast eh? Adjust it in so the hippity-hoppity springyness is taken away. Keep adjusting and trying until happy and everyone likes a different feeling. Note The damping NEEDS to control the rate of shock extension by slowing things a little and Note that a little slower rebound will tend to give you a little more traction cos the back wheel is a little more in "control'. If the damping adjuster makes no change when it is adjusted - you need a shock rebuild. Do the same with the front (after you have put fresh fork oil in - you did put fresh fork oil in didn't you?!?!?) Ralphy

Well done Ben. Brilliant job. You need to be an engineer with those skills. Serious. Ha.... emails.....Little lesson i had......I told someone what I thought and emailed 'em to 'F...en Pull Your Head In'.... they forwarded it to Boss and boy did it get in trouble...... Be careful what you type and always read it before sending or posting. )