nzralphy

Canyou share the tips for set up?

Cheep option. The muffler has a series of baffles. cut off approx 40mm and you will remove the last baffle. It'll now make the noise you want and will run like a POS. I did this and welded the piece back in. Noisy bikes actually don't run better. Sigh Ralphy

Tires 6psi front and 4 psi in rear for good all round grip. Perhaps less in the mud. Set the sag front and rear - with riding gear on measure how far the suspension sags down too when you are on the bike. Have a friend help and do the measurement a few times as there is friction to overcome. Adjust the spring pressure so the bike sags down 1/3 of its travel. Aways set to 1/3..... and recheck it every 6 months. Damping - the forks and shock have rebound damping adjusters. These control how quickly the bike springs back from a bump or compression and have a HUGE effect on traction. Before you start measure where it is set (just in case you want to go back there) - turn in the adjusters counting how many turns until they JUST bottom out. Unscrew them all the way and it will get very bouncy fast suspension. Basically what you are looking for taking the return speed out of the spring. Try adjusting things. Some like it fast some slow. Generally a little slower gives a little more traction. Ralphy

Yeah I know what you mean, but how do you tell someone "where the ball park is" .....you tell them accurately. Now they will have somewhere to work from. Phew I had enough. Again. Ralphy Phew

So some motor cycle engineer develops the swing arm length or piviot point to adjust how your bike rides and gets traction........... .........and you set the swing are to "near level" (+ve or -ve ???) Very scientific.

Nope. You have just given a bunch of wooly nothings for a person to work from........ And now someone who has no (zero, zip, nada) idea what to do will mess about, get it wrong, and think it is fine. The guy asked for help, so give it to the mm - it isn't that difficult to screw the the spring adjuster and get it accurate. When the person has learnt a heap about suspension they'll start adjusting further. Oh, and why is our bike suspension setup different to a mx or road bike ?..... Oh and don't worry about jetting, bar position, tyre air pressure, riding technique, etc....... it's only trials after all. Flipp'n heck.

Oh this getting ridiculous....... Because if you DON'T set the bike up as it is intended from the factory - the bike rides like a POS. Do you see the factory riders riding with sagged-out suspension?.... no. Factory riders follow a normal experience. I'm sorry to tell you this but the normal experience - from very advanced suspension development engineers - is 1/3 sag (and accurately to the mm). Please remember I've not come up with this technique. Your bike has some adjustment, so why wouldn't you set the same as a factory ride (apart from their flash dampers of course)? Try both settings..... I have and the bike handles slow and can't take bigger hits when set soft. Oh whoops...nearly forgot....a balanced motorcycle is very important, so the front and back action should be balanced when you cycle the suspension. I've had enough. Good luck, Ralphy

Yip. Set your sag with both directions and try it and see what you prefer. If you do it with 1/3 race ready sag you only need a little static sag probably 10-20mm. Now..... your bike. I really don't understand how you can have sooooo much sag and you have tightened your spring all the way! It doesn't make sense. If it is as you say..... you need a spring and/or it is broken. Perhaps you should call the importer for his thoughts. Ralphy

58-60 sounds correct. So you have compressed (check this) the spring all the way!!!!!!!...... wow. Well done you may be the first (really). I'd expect the bike to thump up to the top of it's travel and have no static sag at all. Hummm check the spring isn't broken.

So have you tried setting the spring tension to get 1/3 sag with your riding gear on.... and did you get a friend to help with the measurements (it is not possible to do it by your self)?

Errrr nope. You are wrong. You are writing off a whole setup area - why? Both race and static sag are very important for best suspension set up. Stock springs are fine when they have been chosen well by the factory and you fall within the range the factory expects to get onto the bike. Example of a complete brain fart was the 09 & 10 Beta - you had to be a 65kg rider to get best or buy a heavier spring (and loads did)

Run the engine and spray some starter fluid around the carb. Wiggle the carb and see if the idle changes -- to find the air leak.

Gawd some folk go on.... join our club we need the folk, don't ride in the hills you'll kill a polar-bear.... don't listen mate, go find some fun. A trials bike is a brilliant way to explore some hills with a mate or two. Either the 250 or a 300 (detune it a little - compression and ignition and slow throttle) will be fine. I had a big 2t trials bike and really LOVED the way it would devour a hill climb even when it was tuned down. . If you are trail-riding remember the bigger bike will go through gas a little quicker. Get the beta 300cc 4t, it both has a smooth easy ride yet has a strong as hell mid range. And no gas mixing. Ralphy

DO NOT put a tube in it. Go buy a bottle of goop or slime (probably the same price as a tube) put half of it in the tyre, and job done.

Don't panic about the colour of the plug. Mine runs so black it is scary. Raise the needle. The bike loves the richer midrange and will run so much better. Some guys lift it and use 2nd from the bottom notch but i've set mine on bottom clip position and get a much better hill climber. Happy riding.

Have you adjusted the midrange jetting on your bike? The 4Ts are shipped from the factory running lean to pass emissions testing. If you raise the needle the bike has a much stronger smoother mid range.

Linkage or no linkage follow the same suspension rules. 2009 and 2010 Beta Evos had soft springs (god knows what the factory were smoking?)..... so unless you are 65 - 70kg you'll likely need a heavier spring. Free sag is tough to get right with a trials bike as they are sooooooo light. So I generally don't panic over this so much (if at all). Anyway set you static sag with you stood on the bike in riding gear. Get a friend to help. Measure it a few times to get an average. Step off the bike and the bike shouldn't snap up to the top of it's travel. Ideally it will be 10-20mm sagged under its own weight. If it goes right up to the top - the spring is too soft........ or if it has WAY too much free sag - the spring is likely to be too stiff for you (yes I know this sounds backwards but it is true). Also if the static sag has been set correctly and you bottom the bike too often (assuming the damper is working correctly) then the spring is too soft. ......Saunders does a heavier spring

Setting the sag to 1/3 is exactly right. Rebound damping gives you traction. Fast rebound makes the bike hop quickly but the quicker it hops up.... the quicker the rear tyre looses traction. Now you have to set the rebound damping so that the action is not super bouncy.... just take the edge off the action and you can sense it is getting slower. Try it. The adjust it and try it again. Ralphy

No.... just fit a regular "yamaha" one within left thumb reach from your grips. Remember kill switches have a habit of not working at insane high revs - to kill the bike take off your glove and hold it over the exhaust tail pipe.

Nope. Because it is a linkless rear suspension you are stuck with the Paoli (sp?). But because it is linkless ..... Beta had to use a VERY good quality/performance shock. Have it rebuilt and it will be a good perfomer.

sorry can't help with a dealer But....... you've moved the needle the wrong way. Raise the needle to richen the midrange. Put the clip on the bottom notch, and see how it runs. Ralphy

Nope..... you are adjusting the rebound damping. There is no compression damping adjustment. The shock will still blow through it's travel. You can help......Put a heavier rate spring may help a little, or thicker oil

Snap. Brilliant bike and loving it. The Beta 4T engine is so sweet. Did you raise the needle to richen the mid-range? Ralphy

If you have the std Beta kill switch it could be that ..... they are horrible and don't work well.

My Rev4T nearly always has a black plug. Having a rich mixture makes the bike run smooth and the lower revs