nzralphy

I did the same. It works but is very slow..... you almost have to move your hand to get full revs. Now back to the std throttle with the acceleration ramp filed off it.

Put the clip on the bottom so the needle is raised right up and the bike will have a much stronger mid range

Whoops. Yes it is possible with an adapter but it is a huge chalange to get correct

Rev3 wheels fit onto the rev4 but need a smaller disk

Sorry

Er..... just an idea how about taking your current ones out and checking if they look the same???? Just been out to have a look - small pad with hole in the centre.

Get it warm (important)and give it the berries for a few hard runs to get the rings to seat properly. See here ... http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Craig.... go for it mate... there are a bunch of rule nannies trying to stop you saving money..... at an event no one will give a rats a*** you have done it.

Above is correct. Use standard settings when you first get a bike so you get a feel for what the designers intended. Change the fork oil. Do this at least every year. It only takes 60 minutes to do. Remove the swing arm and shock linkage bushes. Clean and grease. Do this every year - again it only takes 60 minutes. Set suspension sag to 1/3 total travel when stood on the bike in riding gear - have a friend help, check it a few times to get a good average, and get it mm accurate!!!!!!!! Rear shocks should be serviced/rebuilt but it is difficult to tell when they are due. Every 2-4 years would be normal. Tip - your shock is likely to have a rebound damping adjuster, unscrew it to make the car park bouncing up and down test damping overly-bouncy-no control-highspeed kick back-fast, turn it in 1/2 turn, feeling for some speed control coming into it's action, turn adjust in again, and feel the difference, turn in and test again, and again. Rebound damping makes a HUGE difference to traction and slightly slower normally gives more traction. You are looking for a smooth but controlled rebound action and not too fast. If the rebound adjuster makes little or no difference your shock needs a rebuild. Ralphy

It is completely different type of shock to the one fitted to your bike. It won't work. The shock you have is a very advanced shock designed to work with a linkless Beta suspension - where the TRP is designed to work with a linkage. Sorry. If you want better suspension have your current shock serviced (it makes a huge difference) I'm not sure of the length.

Hi chris happy new year mate. Good to see you back on a beta.... that other bike made you suffer a little?!?!? Beta guards flexibility vary year to year and colour to colour even 10 years ago - call lampkins or saunders (I think he does his own guards) to find the most flexible that they have experienced. The Beta guards are a little pricy - have you checked price from spain / france / italy, that should keep the UK dealers on their toes? I made a hinge for an older Rev Beta and used cable ties as the sacrificial fixing. Get a length of piano hinge and cut it to 2/3 - 3/4 the width of the the guard. Curve the hinge to match the guard (hinge bulb facing upward). Run a skill saw through the guard nice and square and steady - note to check under the guard and leave enough 'flat' space to rivet the hinge to the guard. Rivet the hinge to the both halfs of the guard. Make two sheet aluminium tabs (can't remember the size but were about 75x20x2) with 2x holes - one at each end. Put one end of the tab between the front guard section and the frame - snug up and loctite. Drill a hole through the rear guard section to match the other alloy tab hole and put a cable tie to hold the guard in place. Couple of things: experiment with cable tie size and keep spare in your pocket, the hinge will pop back to the curve shape when it is utilized, use larger head rivets on the plastic, use a length of tape to tidy the look up every month. It worked. Now i have a black plastic guard and find it plenty flexible so have't done the above fix. Yet.

Perhaps you have an engine side carb air leak???? Is you petrol fresh (see how i avoided asking if your gas is fresh..... gas=fart.... oh don't worry) ???? Check your kill switch and if you have the factory fitted control unit.......put it in the trash and fit a new square yamaha type.

Undo the engine mounts and top bolts on the front engine support bars and rotate the engine with the rad in place. 0.1 and 0.15 sounds about right and I did the adjusters up snug on the shim. My bike has developed a little too much head noise and can feel a set of valve guide coming on. ...another guy on this site had the same problem a while back and am wondering if the early bikes had a design issue with them

Twist the throttle enough to take the slack out of the cable and kick over slowly ish..... That should fix hot starting

Do the clutch mod. It helps a lot. Don't remove clutch springs - i tried it, and got some clutch slip. Use ATF and change it often. Neutral is ALWAYs difficult to find.

I love getting a new bike. Enjoy it. Jealous! You have a bike with the best rear shock in the trials market and consequently it'll get amazing traction - set it up with 1/3 sag when you are on it with riding gear on.... and check it as the spring settles in in a few months time.

Make sure the disk is flat - and not dished as they wear out on the middle first. If you are sure they have been bleed properly and you still have the same feeling then you should get a really high quality hose.

Personally I have my bike set with the needle on the bottom clip grove and it runs brilliantly.

The CDI will work or stop - it can't do in between. Check that the choke plunger is seating properly and the float Valve is working properly

Bugger! quite right I've got it the wrong way around. Sorry.

But he has a bike! ........ and your advise would have him sell it. Strange.

I did this. Machined the ramp off and made it non progressive. It is much better! I also tried a "Fast trials (black) throttle" tube and it was a bit too slow but the bike was very controllable. I'd think you could find a good no ramp throttle from the shop.

What..... you are selling your bike cos it isn't running right?!?!? What happens if the 2t doesn't run right???? Have you called the Lampkin's - their mechanic is brilliant and could possibly help

I know mate.... the Toyota shop wanted $240 to change the oil and look at the tyre pressure (or something lame) in my hilux truck. I just can't figure why a lot more folk don't change oil and save $100's