nzralphy

When you get one there are a few mods to do so search the Beta area..... Best one is to raise the needle all the way up..... cos the bikes ship lean from the factory to pass emissions testing

The Beta 250 4T is fine buy one - you'll be amazed how much go it actually has and it gets SOOOOOOO much grip. My bike has the same engine & I ride at a competent level and don't need more power. If you have more riding skills get the 300 4T.

Time for a shock rebuild. Yes it is a DIY job but you have to have the right gear. Get it rebuilt is is easier. If you are tight on money don't do a full rebuild.

Mate it is the largest trials community in NZ - if you combine Tauranga & Auckland in this local group. Still small in UK standards but at a club trial probably 20-30 riders dependent on the weather. There is a trial probably every 2nd weekend if you are willing to drive 60minutes to the other large towns. Bugger!

I have never had to remove an air box to get a carb out..... Remove the seat/guard and Photograph all the cables and tubes!!!!!!! loosen both front and rear carb clamps a lot and undo the throttle cable. Push the carb forward real hard! ....and twist the rear outwards slowly. (Assemble in reverse order and use a blunt pencil to 'help' the rear boot over the carb) With the carb on the bench carefully remove the screws that hold the black cap on the top of the carb. Note to use a new/good screw driver! Under the black cap is a VERY thin rubber bellows and in the middle is a white throttle slide. The needle is in the slide. You shouldn't have to remove the bellows but don't worry if you do. There is a small lock that keeps the needle in place, remove this and the needle. The needle has a row of grooves near the top, note a 'C' clip is in one of the grooves. You need to move the clip. When you remove the clip it WILL shoot across the room and be lost! Be careful (and have a spare handy). So the taper points down, and you want to raise the needle to richen the mixture..... so?!?!?..... (teacher asks question)...you want to....... lower the clip. I lowered mine all the way to the bottom groove. Do the same, but remember every bike is different so if the bike does a weird 'blub blub blub' rich-mixture noise you'll have to go back one notch. When you put the top cap back on the carb please please please take your time to make sure the rubber bellows sits correctly in the small grove. Work slowly and check if you are not sure BEFORE tightening the screws

Underneath, at the exit end of the carb (engine side). It is a right SOB to get at. Make a mini flat head screw driver to do the specific job. Or, as I have, buy the Jitsie air screw. Don't over torque the screw down. Note if you are removing the jet there is a mico-mini-small oring in there!

It sounds like it is a bit lean in the mid range. The 4T bikes are sent out from the factory lean to pass emissions..... I raised the needle all the way on mine and it gained a lot more snap/go in the mid-high end.

Use fresh hi octane gas every time. Polish the top of the piston and the cylinder head. It helped when i had a 270, but it never fully went away.

+1 as above Make the idle mixture a little richer to help a bit, or retard the ignition 3mm on the ignition base plate, or lower the compression ratio, or polish the top of the piston and head ......or all four...... I did on a 270 Beta and found it a lot smoother and I didn't notice anything missing from the top-end power.

As he said. Is the carb clean? Check fuel is running through the fuel tap and filter. Check there are no blockages to the fuel tank air vent.

2007 was their first commercial year for the 4T so things were a little unfinished in places. As mentioned above with mods to be done. Carbs were sent out running lean to pass emissions testing so the needle needs to be raised nearly all the way to the top (if not all the way) and mixture screw needs 2.5-4 turns (experiment!)

Brilliant. It appears as though Beta have the same service WORLD wide. Same service here in NZ. The other brands should take a look at this...... people who ride Beta are happy.

They are all like that. I have glued 3 pieces of 5mm square x 50mm section hard foam across the air box. This keeps the filter off the plastic airbox and air can flow. Happy days.

I recall it is a Mikuni 28mm BSR SE.... and yes as per the above Yamaha use 'em They are sent out lean in the mid range to pass emissions testing.... so....raise the needle most of the way up and approx 2.5 turns out for the mixture

Your plates are sticking and you'll need new oil. ATF is a very good trials gearbox oil (Betas run much better with it in the box). If oil doesn't fix it go to the Beta forum and read the sticky thread near the top about improving the beta clutch - the info is relevant.

Check everything to do with coil/lead/plug cap and cut 10mm off the lead and re-insert. Try a mates one.

I'm not bagging any bike here..... Sorry but that is just a little BS isn't it..... it may be on the edge, specialized bike, the lightest, the best you can buy, blah blah blah....... but fitness for purpose comes to mind when the exhaust melts. In my mind the factory simply didn't do the right testing and screwed it up. It is a warrantee job and the importer MUST stand behind the fault or people will chose another brand. You poor english *******s having to suffer such sh*te service.

I service my own bike by breaking it into areas and do one per month (or sooner). For instance I'll disassemble clean check lube reassemble the control systems on one day, the next time I'll do the forks and head bearings, then the swing arm, then the wheels/spokes, etc etc. This way the bike gets looked over and it is manageable. I use a soft blue waterproof Mobil grease or CRC marine spray oil (thicker than the 556) on most everything. All bearings get a clean and wipe on the outside before the seal is popped off and the bearing is over packed with fresh grease. Throttle and cable are kept dry/lube-free. Send the rear shock away for a light rebuild every couple of years (makes a HUGE difference the the ride and traction). Maxxium Chain Wax is a brilliant chain lube that lubes well and keeps the bike clean. If the engine needs work it gets a complete strip, replace all suspect parts and replace the main seals. Plastics get a wipe with silicon spray.

Both make enough hp to wheelie. Keeping it up is technique and hence the rider!

No throttle or just take the slake out of the cable. Full choke when cold (note the choke has two clicks on it) Kick slowly(ish) all the way through. DON'T jab the kick starter. 2 kicks when cold every time. Notes Jetting is very lean in the mid range when new to pass emissions testing.... so raise the needle all(or most of) the way up! Air mixture screw approx 2.5 turns out - but experiment for fastest idle speed. Fit a Jitsie air mixture screw to the carb (note there is a VERY small oring under the screw!). Fit a NGK Iridum plug with 0.6mm gap. Brilliant brilliant bike.

For goodness sake ....... Go to the Beta forum on this web site and read how to fix the problem you describe.

Yes They make a difference to all bikes and are brilliant. I think they are made out of dead unicorns.

Charlie you need to set the sag to 1/3 travel when you are on the bike in a normal position (with riding gear on). Stand on the bike, move about, and let it settle (use a wall for support) then have a friend measure the sag. Be mm accurate. Adjust up or down to correct. Set the damping by, again, getting on the bike and heaving up and down equally with hands and feet... the damping/rebound should feel the same front or back. The damping should be set to just take the springy ness out of the spring. Note that it is the quality of the rear shock that has the most impact on the bike's ability to get traction - and if you set the damping too fast the back wheel essentially bounces off the ground rather than staying in contact.

Lift the needle a notch. Clean the carbon from the head and piston top. It helps but doesn't eliminate it.

No. Front and rear damping is put there to help maintain traction. In the garden..... Try setting the rebound damping so that it just takes the bounce out of the springs.... Stand on the bike an bounce the bike up & down evenly... then make adjustments..... try all the settings to get a feel for how they work.