nzralphy

Hi NWR Hi from New Zealand. Yes trails is a complete blast. I've done many types of motorcycles and always hang onto my trials bikes. Put a couple of boulders in the garden and ride around or over them for a few hours per week will do wonders for your skills (get the basics right). Ralph

Hi Mike Welcome to trials! Well 30hr is some going in such a short time! practice the basics a lot. Lot n lots n lots - huge hours will pay off! find a bump or a slope and do figure8 in all different angles. Dependant on the gap between the bearing and the hub I would either use some loctite 620 bearing fit which can fill some impressive gaps, or a speedy sleeve. Ralph

Talk to John Lawton at Kapiti Motorcycles he will likely know.

Yes often it is black - trials 4T bikes tend to run a rich first range of carburettor tuning to help with idling through without stalling and a snappy pickup. Typically Beta ships the bikes to pass emissions, I would suggest try lifting the needle (drop the clip) one or two notches and see what the mid-range does (typically it will be stronger). My bike has the idle mix tuned for the day/weather but 2 turns out is not unusual. Also....call the importer and get his advise as he will know what is a good combination

Yup fit the narrow x ring chain. You will likely still have the same chain many years later. Back in the day I adjusted my ORing chain on the first day on SSDT and that was it. Done. Different story for the standard chain guys!

My Beta4T has a lot more character and is more fun to ride over the Beta 2T. For me it balances better and has a LOT more traction at all revs (and it constantly amazes my mates) I'll not go back to a 2T. Canyou do your own maintenance? You need to factor in the valve adjustments $$ by a mechanic. The 4T is quieter and is SUPER easy to start. You never need to rev n 'clean out' the engine like a 2T. The 4T loves to rev - good for hills The first time you ride the 4Tyou will instantly feel and you'll notice approx 3kg heavier engine. After 1-2hrs you won't notice it as you adapt.

That is beautiful mate! I'm really impressed

Stood on your bike and ready to ride you should have 1/3 suspension sag front and back. Try to be accurate with this. Springs get a hammering so check every 6mth.

Move the needle clip to the bottom slot (or the next one up if it "blubbs" in the midrange). These bikes are shipped from the factory very lean in the mid range to get them past emissions. Moving the clip to this position really opens the bike up to a much stronger midrange.

I fitted one of the first Jitse adjusters and the tip broke off in the carb - check for this!

The spacer is either under or over the needle clip and gives another "1/2 clip" adjustment. Also remember that the bike ships from the factory set to pass emissions testing. To do this the mid range is very lean. You can dramatically change the 4T bike performance by raising the clip to the bottom (likely too far) or next to bottom position. The mid range is way fuller, smoother, and more powerful. Jitse make a fantastic finger/wheel screw adjuster for the idle mix

Are you sure it is slap? Yes you can. In fact you can until the piston and barrel are both stuffed.

Do what the manual suggests. 20hr is fine and if you are using fully synth oil (which will last wayyyyyyyyy longer) and changing it earlier then you may as well take your money and flust it down the toilet.

Interested in how far you now have to twist.... can you put a pen mark on the grip and tell me how far you have to twist for full throttle when viewed from the end of the bar? Thanks everso.

Good to know, thanks

Just a heads up that some of the noise and movement will come from the pads moving within the calliper

Hi. 5. yes 2 parts both the same shape and same Beta parts number this is worth a look ..... http://www.betausa.com/content/support

Yeah that is good news. I hardly ever need to use the hot start knob.

I would spray some brake cleaner or WD40 all around the inlet manifold area and see if the engine note changes. If it does you have an air leak.

Bike dies after water crossings. Don't do water crossings. Next. Sorry couldn't resist

There is nothing wrong with this type of carb! Do Not change it as it is very good at metering fuel for the difficult 4T engine. Seriously. Even the factory kitted 300cc bikes used this carb. The bikes ship with a very lean mud range to pass emissions. So you need to raise the needle - lower the clip to either the bottom or second bottom groove. Note that there is a plastic spacer either over or under the needle for a half groove adjustment. The main and idle jet is the correct size from the factory. The carb has a VERY thin air balance bellows and it can get a crease way too easy. Check it out. Fit a Jitse air screw to help tune the mixture to about 2.5-3 turns out The carb air ways are very small so take your time and inspect it with a torch Set the spark plug gap slightly large. Bin the original Beta kill button. Check the kill button earth and attach it really well to the frame.

Ok first hand experience - I used to build and ride unicycles. I also did a heap!!!!!!! Of other things to try to get better at trials. Did it help. Not really. I could have but really I would go spend that same money on a one day coaching session with a pro. Get a mate to video it if you are allowed. Every time I have been to a coach it has helped a lot more than I ever thought it would.

Going back a few pages.... Can we make something up that gets Andy wound up? That was fun

So it's not running due to scratches on the bore?

Mate don't get the bore replated. I've seen near new bikes with similar scratches. Put it back and ride it. It'll be fine.