nzralphy

get it repaired.... it will be fine

I can't tell you the last time i cleaned my chain. Really i have no idea. I use Maxima Chain Wax. It lasts a trial and doesn't attract dust / mud. After a dirty ride i hose the chain, let it dry, and re lube. Done. A large can lasts a year.

Hummm as you say - long header pipe - they used to promote power down in the lower revs if i remember correctly. Bit of a contrast to the new ossa with a short header?

They fail because some of them have no damping. If you can turn your rear shock rebound damper in all the way in, and the damping doesn't slow ..... it has failed. Unfortunately the rear shocks don't appear to be rebuildable. PS. You need rebound damping for traction.

Hey we ride limited production bikes and you have to be ready to work on or improve a bike when new! I'd be p****d if it was a big item (frame or major engine) but would just suck it up.... it is second hand.

I can't find any. The only thing i found is Beta do a light weight muffler assembly.

Only way is to take the front wheel out mate. If that doesn't do it take the rear wheel out.

Have you got a blocked fuel filter or fuel tank vent?

An engine specialist would replace them quite easily. But really..... I'd be surprised if they had warn! What measurement did you come up with?

yes it will. worst case will be that, perhaps, the spacers will have to be changed about

Friends have just switched from gas gas to a beta 125 and they are loving it...... it is a better built machine.

I'd say you'd be in your rights to hand the bike back to him and get him to replace piston, barrel, big and small end.

No issues with oil 8hrs after oil change. No issues with adjustment - I checked. Mind you i was giving the bike some welly, so i am not surprised it was slipping. Yip as i thought.....it is much better with the 6 springs. Today it had no slip and a positive feel for when it bites or releases.

Hi All. I got some clutch slip yesterday up some long big hills. I guess the 4 spring idea was a little hopeful. I have gone back to 6 springs and will test today.

Most Beta Rev3's will knock going up hill on a constant heavy load. I did heaps to get rid of mine and reduced it a bit. Check the jetting is correct. Polish the head and top of the piston. Clean the exhaust out. Retard the ignition a little (3-4mm) on the plate. And then it is still there......get used to it.

Keep with it. I too, am tall and have put higher bars on and it has been brilliant. Just make sure that the bottom section/bend of the bars is vertical when the bike is on level ground - this makes heaps of difference to the way the bike rides Also check you are getting the rear suspension to sag 1/3 of it's travel (no more, no less.... and do the front as well) when standing on the bike on level ground. Get a friend to help. Too many wheelies could be from a rear shock that is settling too far into it's travel.

You must start by setting the sag. Sag is critical to get the bike to work properly. Set both ends to 1/3 sag when you stand on the bike (you'll need a friend to help with the measurements). Check this every 3-6mths as springs sag. Then adjust damping to preferred feel, but remember a slower dampened bike will tend to give more traction than an undampened.

Nice wings. Can you get a bike in the back?

Retard ignition for smoother engine performance.......?...... no?

yes...

Even though you mentioned the kill switch...... I'd bin the Beta kill and light switches. I have heard bad vibes about them when the lights were on (or off - can't remember)!! New plug needed? 0.6mm gap on an NGK Iridium plug. I read somewhere of a replaced stator due to poor running.... do a search of this site. Coils can die and are cheeper than stators

when i had one of those bikes i quietened it down by machining an aluminium tube that i pushed into the the exit pipe of the ctr exhaust box (ie just before the tail pipe). It took the pop and some of the volume away. It made the bike quite torquey and i couldn't notice any loss if top end, although i am sure it did come down. I can't remember the size but it was approx 40mm long and about 4mm wall thickness. DON"T tap it right in..... you may want to remove it some day. Also make sure the pilot jet is correct size and retard the timing 4mm.

First up....read the owners manual. Set the front and back sag to exactly 1/3 sag when you stand on it. No More No Less. Get a friend to help for this. Bikes come out of the factory best set for a 70-75kg rider if you are up over 95kg(ish) you should be looking for a heavier spring (warning, it is odd to have to put heaps of spring pre-load turns on the shock). Putting spacers under fork springs helps if you run out of adjustment. Loosen the rebound damping adjusters on the fork and shock a little (keep note of how far you turn them). Now bounce the bike up and down. It will be fast/ bouncy fast/coming back up at you with a thud. Now turn the adjusters in until the superfast return speed goes away... but is not over dampened. A little bit of show is good. Adjust damping in and out to find your favourite feel. If the rear shock rebound damping doesn't slow down then you NEED a shock rebuild. Damping gives you control and traction. Did I say 1/3 sag Check it every 6 months as damping and springs change.

I'd say that the tube strength will be compromised as it is. Not a lot....... but i'd sleep easier if was mine... and it was repaired. Get a quality piece of 4130 Cro-moly tube that is one size bigger than the dented tube, cut it to 40mm long and split length ways, get a good TIG welder to weld it over the dented tube. Get him to work quickly to minimise heat effects. Clean it up slowly with a file. Do the other side to match the looks and, likely, no one will notice. Oh and remove the electronics before starting to weld. Ralph

That bottom screw will only adjust the rebound damping.... but in doing this it may have a subtle effect on compression damping