nzralphy

Just thinking out loud here.... um there is something wrong don't keep making the same mistake. Take the system apart (one piece at a time) and find out what is wrong. Replace the bolts with NEW rear hub/sprocket bolts (high tensile)

What is this worth...? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/M...n-267506598.htm

1 foot down = 1 point. 2 feet = 2 points.... Go out and be a SOB and that will at least make the day interesting.

I'd check the reeds again (disassemble them!). Water pumping into them will crack them really easily. Ralphy

You can make the action quicker by either tensioning the springs up or reducing the damping. FRIST thing to do..... adjust you springs until you get 1/3 sag when you stand on the bike. Both ends. No more no less!!! Have someone help you to get measurement correct. Front forks have a rebound adjuster flat head screw on top of the forks. Rear shock has a rebound adjuster allan screw on the shock rod end. This will make the action quicker...... BUT rebound damping has a huge effect on traction. This means if you reduce rebound for faster action you will reduce traction. So you are best to keep rebound very slightly slower and use the proper technique. Ralph

I hope 4Ts will be around for a while yet. My Beta has plenty of go and is lovely and quiet. There is no reason for other brands to make their bikes quiet. Emissions on a 2T will always be s**t. EFI on a 2T doesn't work very well.... It was tried on Moto GP bikes by Honda etal and failed. They all went back to carbs. How can a small manufacturer (OSSA) make it work. (Sorry - orbital in austraila with direct injection managed it)

Slosh 500ml of petrol around the disassembled exhaust to get the goop out. Let it stand before using..... to let excess evaporate.

My understanding is that the 300 racing had a lumpy cam in it to make it go a bit quicker. I'd buy one. If it was a bit too wild i'd consider putting a std cam into it.

Not so now....SS spokes are now very reliable. Some one worked out the appropriate amount of pixie dust to improve fatigue life. I've never heard of SS rims, but then i do live under a rock at times.

Ok now i follow. Would it be cheeper the get new (higher) bars?

I always run the high octane petrol simple because i read somewhere the the manufacturing spec for the lower grade stuff was very poor and variable. Go with the best it will give you piece of mind but won't make the bike go any better.

Hey mate. Yes Happy New Year. Then mill off the current clamp to give a flat surface then use the ones you can buy.....?

I've had this. Heat it. A lot.

Could you just fit a 'riser spacer' under the bars and maintain the same triple clamp?

After soooooo many years riding slow throttles i ground off the fast action last section of throttle no my Rev4T. I can't describe it bit i just couldn't get used to it. Happy now though.

I toned mine down by retarding the ignition and machining a piece of alloy pipe and tapping it into the tail of the centre exhaust box. I can't remember the pipe diameters but the wall diameter was about 3mm. The plug was about 35mm long. It put a little more back pressure into the system and quitened things down (mostly the pop!) with little effect to low and mid range power, top end was effected only slightly.

I'd say that the cylinder head oring has blown and cylinder pressure is getting into the cooling system. I'd whip the head off it and check this....and replace the orings as a matter of course cos they go hard.

Nope.... no idea what you are on about. Toasty pie here . Sun is out and we have just BBQed the turkey for xmas . Lovely. Hope you are having a good one. Oh, and i hope it warms up for you . Ralphy

Two things.... Foot pegs used to be very high. Big crowds.

A wee man on this site said it could be done. Oh well. Merry Xmas.

Tom you are brilliant. Thanks. Have a good Xmas.

Agree with the above. Fantastic bike. All the mods are related to early engine numbers. Lamkins should be able to tell you if it needs mods and advise best jetting. No reliability issues as far as i know and none with mine. Replace the Beta kill switch! Easy to start. Rev 4T ABSOLUTELY fantastic bike. Easy to ride. Smooth power. Lots of top end if you rev it. Tweaked suspension settings make it ride very well. Get one they are great. Down side is that you have to rock the engine forward to adjust the valves - sigh. Evo 4T are better again. Lighter, more progressive suspension, different ignitions, different exhaust, shorter/rear bias. Can adjust valves in situ. Newer newer newer! Both have the newest smoothest and lightest 4T engines in trials. There is lots on this site how to best set one up.

Give it to us in 10 words. I don't even understand your second post

Welcome to trials. You have a great bike and agree with the tips given. Check you have a slow throttle fitted. I retarded the ignition 4-5mm on mine to get the bike a little quieter.... or run it with three base gaskets. Check the jets are correct with the importer and run high octane gas. Ralphy

Ok quite correct. You can have too much damping. More what i was saying is that slightly slower feeling is better for traction than no damping which is how a lot of blokes let their bike deteriorate too. Yes chewy is right balance the damping front an back. Bounce on the bike a feel the action front and back. Your bike should feel slightly dampened and not all springy! 83kg is about normal the spring will be fine.