nzralphy

Yes would be ok. Put a slow throttle on it. A better bike for a beginner would be a 200 or 125 though - especially for the first year.

My Beta 250 4T gets about 10.5km/l

Go here http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive...rs/4347056.html ....to watch an amazing video of the new BMW 1000r sport bike engine reving and watch the valves open and close. It just becomes a blurr! Wow. Ralphy

Fluffy tends to be lean. Blubbery or 'four stroking' tends to be rich. I'd say that your mixture could be a bit lean because of the high fuel:oil. Try running the bike at 70:1 and if the problem persists try raising the needle a notch (lower the clip). Tell us how you get on.

i'd do the same but i live out in the country side so there are fewer smoke issues. Point the pipe up so it acts like a chimberly (sp?). It will get WELL hot! when the fire dies put an old speedo cable into an electric drill and the flailing cable will knock off the carbon. Check your timing and reeds! Ralph

Yeah. Somewhat like that. Some clever french bugger made that. From what i remember the front wheel drive was from an accessory hydraulic pump he mounted to the front sprocket. We could use that front hub though!

Hey Dan here is something to work on. Chewy we need your help.... I have plenty of wild ideas about how to make things better. I like better and simpler - sometimes you cant get both together which is a shame. The variable Turbo pressure at loss if traction thing is a bit complex. But fun. Next is a Hydraulic drive. Remove the gear box and fit a hydraulic pump. For the rear hub fit a hydraulic motor with some spokes. The hydraulic fluid moves through a couple of tubes so there is no chain to get all messy. Now the complex bit - you will need to be able to get max revs at slow speeds as well as high speeds. Like we can now. So we'll need a variable pullie (as in a CV gear box) system to the change the input to the pump. Or something (nice vague ending there) Then there is the air starter for the engine idea! Seal the swing arm so it will hold air. From the swing arm to the frame fit a small air cylinder. This pumps air into the swing arm through a non return valve. Riding the bike will keep it pressurised. The air is routed upto a small air motor which is mounted to the engine starter system. Fit a command push button on the bars. Now you have free auto-starts without a battery! Pump the swing arm up in the mornings to get going. Cool. Ralphy

Go for it. There is nothing saying an optical sensor wouldn't work, but it will be working mighty quickly with a 2T compared to a 4T. The down side of having a eliptical output gear is that it would have to have a matching eliptical driven gear thus negating any benifit. if you could match an eliptical gear to a round gear then you'll get the benifit. Now if you could do that then you will be faced with varying gearbox speed rather than varying output torque/power. How about a variable turbo pressure gate mated to rear traction! Ralphy

I don't actually see it coming from me or my bench. I know it isn't operation room clean but i do know every thing (!!!!!) that is on it... and there were no bearing cages on the bench. The drain plug was clean last time i changed the oil and it went back in clean. Hmmmmm. So it could be a "factory" part !!! Ralphy

Hey that looks cool..... Reverse gear and shaft drive!!!!!!!!!

I agree with Addict all good mods. - also cut off the middle mudguard mounting tab as it stops air flowing freely to the airbox. Agree with the water pump corrosion advise - replace with quality premixed coolant. My advise is to get the suspension set back to standard. Replace the fork oil. Have the shock serviced if the rebound adjuster makes no difference to the speed of the shock (call lampkin's for a rebuilt shock) as it makes a huge difference to the traction and feel of the bike. Set the forks and shock to 1/3 sag front and rear when you stand on the bike (have a friend help). Then set the rebound (front and back) damping so that it just starts to slow the fast spring action down a little. Take the shock off and grease the swing arm bearings. Then do the headset bearings. These are good things to check and do and won't take a long time to do. Ralph

I brought both bikes new many many moons ago. The 250 was so completely different that i wouldn't bother with the 'flat' 200. M Lampkin gave the 250 a very good review when it was a new bike.

Pete, you may be right. I have looked through the manual and have found nothing that would be the right sized bearing. Upgrade time . I keep the workshop bench clean(ish) but now, as we are in the process to move home to a new city, it is time to invest in a new bench for a very clear work area.....

I haven't noticed any change in note from the engine and i appear to be lucky that the found part has no damage. If it is half a bearing cage then it is from a stub shaft. If it was from a through shaft the the photographed piece would still be hanging on the shaft as - i assume - the other half is hanging about on now. The piece has an OD of approx 10.5mm so it isn't big. I'll look through the pdf to try narrow the search down. Good help sofar guys, keep it coming.

Oh smeg.... here is the photo

Hi Guys I recently changed my oil on the Rev4 250 4T and this little wire/wave washer was attached to the magnet on the drain plug. I don't know where it is from. Or if i have misassembled the engine. There doesn't appear to be any damage on the part and the engine appears to run fine. History stuff i have done - the bike has had a factory kick-starter kit (requires removal of clutch basket), head gasket (i did a cylinder head polish, piston top polish, and valve tickle while it was apart), valves have been adjusted a few times, clutch plates have been cleaned up (requires removal) Does any one have any idea where it is from??????? Thanks in advance, Ralphy

Ok Now i've done it. The modification. To the Rev4 250 4T. Before i started the clutch on the 4T was a significantly lighter pull then on the 2T i had. I have done the mods and cleaned up the plates, and take out two clutch springs. All the work was done with a needle file - no power tools - and it took 2.5hrs. I never used to get much clutch drag but perhaps there is a little less drag when the bike is idleing. It is, perhaps, a little easier to find N but there isn't much in it. Now for the BIG change - i have a much more progressive clutch take up. Much better. Like wow! I have given't the bike some stick and no clutch slip yet. Will post back if i get slip... and will refit the two removed springs. Ralph

Brilliant blog starting here "Ishy gets ready to play" Can you give us a daily update? PLEASE

If you are keeping your bike - Lay out the dosh for a rebuilt shock. Most shocks need rebuilding every 1-3years. If you brought a newer bike you could still have to rebuild the shock. Choose a good reason to upgrade the bike.... say a better air box, smoother engine, better brakes, or what ever....(test ride some bikes to get this info).... these will relate to a particular model/year. Then go find the best condition bike of that model. That way your upgrade has a better meaning and/or value. Oh and yes upgrading your bike is always worth while. New bike = better bike (if you find a good one) Ralphy

First one day water cooled beta at the SSDT was in 89 or 90. I was there.

I've done that at the SSDT.....the disk didn't come right until i sanded it. Remove the disk and get the junk off.

Also check that the inlet manifold is not cracked or perished - it can give similar faults

Hi again There are just hundreds or thousands of rocks in each section and as you say some (most) are covered in water). So...try this.... walk up a section and get a general idea/direction you want to go, coming back down remember the key obstacles and how you would attack them, for the rest stay loose and ready for the bike to move about. You are not allowed to stop/ballance in a section at SSDT. Top tip.... all rocks are one wheel base length apart (or they seem to be!!!)......so keep the bike flowing/moving. Talk to a chemist for their best advise for an endurance sport. Good luck.

Hi Luct4 There is plenty of advise on this web site for the Rev4t... do a search. Ralphy

Best advise for new comer.... i am sure it is still relevant 21 years later! .... Ride motocross style across the moors and ride trials in the sections - hard to do!!!. Look at the sections QUICKLY and then get on and ride them - remember you will NOT have time to study them!!! Ride with 1psi more in your tyres to avoid flats. If you get bogged in a wet hole - lay your bike over and drag it out sideways. Get fit, take pain killers, stretch and stay flexible. Boy are you going to have fun! Ralphy