nzralphy

Normally 5wt would be about the correct weight. Normally you fill the forks with some oil, pump them up and down to fill chambers/cavities then lower them to max travel (just leave off both caps) and measure the height to the top of the oil. Actually over fill it and put a tube to the correct depth then suck out the excess with a syringe. the forks should have 165mm travel and, with some effort, you can get close to max travel in the garage. Have you got too much rebound adjustment turned on on the RHS leg? or have you got too much oil in them?, or do the springs need a little more preload on the LHS leg?

You need to set the spring up so the bike sags 1/3 of it's travel when you stand on it. NO MORE and NO LESS. Get someone to help check this. Note if you are heavy (90kg +) you will need a heavier spring otherwise you could blow through your travel If the bike blows through its travel you should have the shock oil serviced. It sounds like your shock is ready for a rebuild. Most rear shocks have a rebound damping adjuster - set this so it slows down the rear springing action. The bike should not bounce too easily. Hopping the back is all about technique.... NOT by setting the rebound damping too soft. If you do this the bike will get LESS traction all the time. Then again, you maybe happy with this i suppose.

Pulls up sofa. Wow.....not that i'm a disbeliever...... ;o) ....... If these clowns have made their own crankcases they could carry on when Montesa finishes! They have made the hardest part of the bike! .......New crankcases my a**e.

Ok I like Titanium. A lot. How many bolts are in Titanium and what is the cost? Ralphy

Right here is your work to do list..... Do you have any slack in the shock bushings? If yes replace them/it. The bushings have a very thin (read tiny) C-clip holing them in from both sides!. Do you have 1/3 sag when stood on your bike? If not go readjust it so only 1/3 of the travel is used up when you stand on the bike. This stops the bike from settling into it's slow part of its stroke as default! How heavy are you? Bikes come out the factory set up for a 75-80kg rider. So if you are over 90-95kg you will need a heavier rear spring. You need damping to maintain rear wheel traction. For this you should keep some rebound damping. I suggest you screw the rebound damping screw in until it slows down noticeably, then back it out a little to get the quicker action you were looking for. Again make sure you adjust for 1/3 as above. Does your rear shock need a service?. If you screw in the rebound adjuster and the rebound doesn't slow down then you should have your shock serviced. These things take a hammering and need oil changing regularly. Ralphy

Take the reads out and look for damage to the reads and that they are sitting flat

That was a fantastic review of the clamp RLR.......

Hi FWIW on my rev4 250 4T .... they are sent from the factory with lean mid range to pass emissions testing and a large main jet to stop seizing our new bikes. I reduced the size of my main jet from a #127.5 down to a #112.5 and moved the needle clip all the way down (to raise the needle). Boy did it make a big difference in the mid and high end, really helping to get it to rev out and bags of power. I'd pick that the 300cc should have a #115 or #117.5 main jet at sea level to help it to rev properly. For altitude I'd be going down a size (ie a #117.5 would go down to a #115..... or even a #112.5 if it bogs down) Ralphy

I don't mind a few colours or a bit of writing on my gear..... it gives people something to look at (i'm no looker) and confuses them into thinking i'm a good rider as i move past them.

Pour some petrol into it and slosh it about. Blow out the excess and DON"T light it. It will melt.

Gosh that is a lot. I purchased a shock rebuild kit nz$45 and 2 shock bearings nz $80 and had it rebuilt by a shock expert nz$160 and it was good after that. You should be able to find a shock expert by asking at your local motorcycle shop. Ask for a specialist in off road shocks

Yup. 1/3 front and back. Note that if you have to put lots and lots of turns into the preload it is likely you need a stronger spring for your weight. Note 2.... but wait there is more..... shocks and forks need servicing at regular intervals. Some riders should get a rear shock rebuilt every year and others every 3-4yrs.

How ridiculous, when someone said leave it slack it will help with traction. It will not. If this was the case the bikes would come out of the factory like that. Jeez. Springing holds your bike up off the ground and allows the wheel to move. Damping controls the motion and this effects traction. You may have good traction with slack suspension but this is only because you prefer how the damping has more effect because you have let the spring have less effect. Go and wind the spring up and, at the same time, increase the rebound damping. If you can't get your shock to go slow enough for your taste then it is likely your shock needs a rebuild. Suspension needs to ONLY have 1/3 sag when you stand on it..... so 1/3 of 160mm rear travel is 53mm sag from fully extended. Have a friend help measuring this. Then adjust the damping to slow things down and keep the wheel in check (read keep traction). You may like it, but if you are riding with slack suspension you are not riding the best setup bike. You have adapted, and you are fooling yourself it is better.

First .... Your needle could be loose on the carb slide. or.....Your timing/flywheel key may have sheared. Your reeds may be broken. Or.... i'm wrong and don't know.

Yip. No idea why but my Beta 4T revs and goes without knocking on a 6km uphill, while the beta 2T would start to pink/knock after 1km. Oh and the 4T has more tan enough go.

Hey, now that is impressive! What engine oil has been used and how often has it been changed? Didi it get a new oil filter every oil change? Thanks, Ralphy

I love the Beta 4T it runs more consistent than my 2T used to run. Get a Beta EVO 4T 300cc. It is jetted rich from the factory and will run flat out all day with no issues. It is a much cheeper bike too!

It is an NGK CR7EIX

Same with the MTB thing - you don't want too many turns. 1/3 sag is correct setting. Wind it up all you like but you will still go throught he travel too quickly. Don't worry about too many turns on the shock. Word is the rear spring is too soft from standard, and a bunch of people have swapped them out for a stronger unit. 2010 models have "revised suspension setting" which is BS for we got the 2009 wrong.

Err why the serious doubts??? strange! ..... i took appart my bike to replace a head gasget and there, on the cam, is the little weight system. It is also in the workshop manual.

No Scotland is too twisty for holding it flat for more than 5-10minutes.

The the 4T cam has a small weight that moves inward when revs are low/stopped. This weight holds open one exhaust valve to allow easy starting. Once running the weight is flung out of the way. AAAAAAnd explains why this won't be the noise explained.... sorry. Ralphy

Hi. My Rev 4T has a very sooty plug. I am running a Iridium plug with 0.6mm gap. It starts and runs fine - one slow kick and it is running. Have you replaced the problematic Beta kill button? They are ****e, replace it. Check you have a good earth to the frame for the ignition system ... this has fixed a few of these bikes starting problems. Jetting is critical - Raise the needle all the way, replace the main jet with #112.5, and idle mix set 3.5-4 turns out. Ralph

At low RPM some times the auto decompressor weight can rattle about - try increasing the idle speed to around 1200-1400 rpm