nzralphy

Shercoman... Anodizing is for aluminum. Do you need to replace the whole leg?... i have taken a very fine honing stone to a similar scratch and slowly honed it off. Slowly!. Then i have filled the scratch with a hard paint (black in your case) or two pack epoxy glue. You should let this set for a couple of days, then hone or sand it flat. When you are done rotate the leg in the clamp so it is inside and hard to see. Just ring a plating specialist in the yellow pages.... they'll know who can repair your leg. Ralphy

Shercoman... Anodizing is for aluminum. Do you need to replace the whole leg?... i have taken a very fine honing stone to a similar scratch and slowly honed it off. Slowly!. Then i have filled the scratch with a hard paint (black in your case) or two pack epoxy glue. You should let this set for a couple of days, then hone or sand it flat. When you are done rotate the leg in the clamp so it is inside and hard to see. Just ring a plating specialist in the yellow pages.... they'll know who can repair your leg. Ralphy

I got rid of rust in a petrol tank some years back by putting in a couple of handfulls of clean large gravel from the local gutter.......and shook it about for half an hour. Don't worry about putting tank sealant into the tank unless it leaks. Wash it out. Fit the fuel tap. Done. Zero cost.

Becuase the disk is 150mm dia rather than the 165mm fitted to the rev3

I use Total 10w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil. It seams good but the clutch drags more than when i got the bike - it had Castrol 10w-40 semi-synthetic.

My Beta 2t '06 spare back wheel fits my newer 4t '08 fine. I did have to run different spacers, different disk 150v165mmm, the sprocket is 42t v41t, and the sprocket is on the other side. Beta man said the Evo wheel is the same as the 4t wheel. I don't see that Beta would change the hub........because, as far as i can tell, most trials bikes are running the same wheels. So. Don't sell your wheel before you get the bike. It is highly likely it will fit.

You'll need spoke nipple spanners. Ask at a motorcycle shop.

I was young and not so good. 1989 SSDT i was in a small group of sections sorry i forget which... well it was rocky, uphill, and a stream at the bottom so that is about 99% of the sections!. As i was going up i looped the bike near the top. I fell/ran backwards until lying in the stream and looked up... oh ****e... the bike landed on my head. Knocked me out. Feck! had to sit on the bank for 10 minutes to get composure together. SSDT in 1988 i learn't to avoid the really large mooreland puddles.... only after i was thrown at high speed over the bars. Twice..... 40-50km/h and instantly have the front wheel dissapear into the bog.

You'll need a calender with bikes or girls on it.

The jettings changes done, as above, and all is well now. Because the fuel screw is now 4 turns out it really is rich at idle and just above. No choke needed now! I'll get onto valve checking/adjustment this week.

Nice one Stork. I'll check that as i adjusted the valves a few weeks back. I have jetting changes this weekend - will report.

Yes. Cut off the centre seat support - -it restricts the air flow to the air box. Fit a proper kill switch. Set suspension at 30-33% sag when stood on the bike. Ring the UK importer and speak to Chris for his jetting setup - 112.5 main jet, lift the needle all the way, 4-4.25 turns on the fuel screw.

Hi Munster. Yes i have tried the bike with the fuel cap loosened. It made no difference.

Guys, has anyone had a hesitation when their bike gets warm? The bike starts fine. Easy infact. As i ride around the yard for balance practice the bike develops a hesitation and lumpy idle just as the fan is kicking in. A slight snap of the throttle has the bike slowly pick up ...and on the way back down to idle the bike will easly stall. I don't even rev the bike past 1/4 throttle. There is no missfire at low or high revs. It doesn't go away until the bike cools down. I have two plugs and changing between the two makes no difference. I have tried the fuel mix screw 2, 3, & 4 turns out. I have drained the tank and flushed it out. The carb has been stripped, remove jets (standard), blown out and inspected 3 or 4 times. Float height is set to 13mm. I have a new fuel filter fitted. Any thoughts?... and thanks in advance. Ralph

You could have a spark jumping to earth somewhere.

The wash water may be making the coil leak to earth

What are the oils like?....Change the fork oil and perhaps consider a rear shock service. Most bikes should have this done every 1-2 years. First - Check you have the correct sag settings. Your suspension should sag 30-33% front and back when you are stood naturally on the bike. From there experiment with the damping both directions - too fast and the shock will bounce up, too slow and it will have a dead or slow feeling. Set it half way between.

Er... are they the correct size... you'll be amazed how many different sized orings there are. Try warming the ctr section and subsequently the orings... warm orings tend to soften a little and mah help you to fit the pipe. FWIW... Always fit Viton high temp orings - they don't melt

Nope.... I'm not upset by poor english so long as it is a minor gawf. I'm an engineer and can't spell. Hell I'm too busy trying to save the planet to go back and check what i wrote

The end bearings are held in with very small wire C clips. Make sure these are out before you start pushing!

Beer is full of goodness though..... A good mix of anything will do, but Pasta is really full of replenishment energy - multi day Cyclists eat it by the truck load.

One chuff and it stops.... I'd say the Woodruff key is sheared. The flywheel will look fine and appear tight, while the electrics to the fan will also appear fine. To check this you must remove the flywheel.

Back in '88 when i did my first SSDT (remember I had travelled from NZ to do this event) I limped in to park and had to rebuild the back end of the bike. The PEMs parts guy handed me all the parts i needed, i struggled, I got the job done, no one helped and was 40min late. Phew, I was pleased to still be running. Then some SOB whizzed into an awning in the park and had 3 guys work on his bike. i was STUNNED god i was mad. So i went a found the steward and told him. He put a stop to it. BUT i had to tell him even though he was in the same bl**dy place i was. i found more of it going on in the park. Flipp'n eck! So i told the same steward. I often thought that the stewards would act on what was pointed out to them..... but they did have a lot of apathy to the rules. EVERYONE needs to make a stand and ask for stewards' help if something is not right..... you are not being a tattle-tail........ stewards can't be everywhere...... apply the rules!

Most brakes that have made this noise have been somewhat cured by bedding the pads in. Ride the bike for 500m with the brake lightly on, at the end of the 500m hose the system down. This will hopefully take off the glaze and bed the pads in to the disk.

I have had a Rev4T for a few months now and still cannot get over how light the clutch is. it is lighter than my one year old Rev3. When i changed the oil to 15/50 fully synth oil the clutch went a little on off where it was a little smoother with the 10/40 semi synth the last guy was using. FWIW he was not a rev-it-and-dump-the-clutch guy