nzralphy

There is no packing in the exhaust. It is all metal plates (baffles) and tubes.

Nope. He is wrong.....ish. Some blokes will say that their soft rear springing gives them more traction and feels better. Well that's BS, other wise the factory would send them out like that. More likely is the spring has sagged and the rider is preferring to slow shock feeling cos the shock is working in a more dampened part of it's action. Mostly it is Rebound Damping gives the bike traction. Reset the spring and slow the damping down. Springing resists some compressing force, makes your bike ride at the correct height, and forces the shock back out ready for the next impact. BOTH need to be set for your body weight. The rear spring settles over time and is not adjusted up. Reset it! Stand on the bike and make sure it ONLY sags 1/3 of it's travel (on front and back). Have someone help you measure this. It is important. Note that bikes are sent from the factory for 70-95kg (ish) riders - if you are outside this range you'll need appropriate new springs. Resetting this will correct your bikes geometry. Shocks wear. Shocks need servicing. Shocks need to have their damping tweaked at regular intervals to take account for wear or a re-tensioned spring. Your bike has a small rebound damping adjuster screw near the top of the shock. Give it a little turn inwards to slow the damping down. If you turn it in (go on, turn it all the way in) and there is no difference to slow the shock down then you are due a shock service. Try different settings. Remember DAMPING gives you traction.

Well the Mont and Beta have their frames made by Verlochi (sp?) so there is no cost difference there. Mont use Showa suspension which could be marginally more expensive. Beta and Mont both make 4T engines Beta 5000 Mont 6500 = marketing are rip off b**tards, or their company is more expensive to run. Back to the new bike. I'd say the the rear shock will be one of the most expensive items. My mate just got a TTX Ohlins rear shock for his Ducati and it was moon money..... it also made a huge difference to the bike. I'd by the OSSA just because of the rear shock!

Why do you need it and what will it get you? I thought the UK had a reciprocal health deal with other EU countries?

Beta do a Rev3 shock rebuild kit. It is very difficult to do. Get a shock tech to do it. 5wt oil and 250psi

Most Rev3's do it. It is pinking. Remove the head and polish the top of the piston and the cylinder head (get some Autosol polish). Use the best petrol you can find. Use fresh petrol. Raise the needle a notch helps some bikes (but also makes other '4-stroke'... run rich). Check the air mixture screw is correctly adjusted. Then when this is done..... just put up with it cos i never fully got rid of it on mine. Ralph

Hi Mike. Yes. The modern bike is sent out from the factory with front and rear suspension set for 70-90kg riders. To get the best from the bike i would recommend uping the front and back spring rates. Talk to a couple of sellers to get the best opinion of how much heavier rate to go for.... i'd guess a 10%-15% heavier spring. Yes set things up with 1/3 sag when stood on the bike.

280 bhp would be very handy when you are faced with ....both.... a rock step and the need to get into space

check this site for a home made unit.... 2 bits of flat bar, two short bolts (short ok!!!!!), one joining nut and bolt. hry looking in the Beta Forum Ralphy

For some good coaching words go to http://www.trials.com.au/content/ the site has some great tips to read.

I moved from a '07 Rev3 and now am on a '08 Rev4t. I think it turns about the same. First thing i noticed was the i could feel the engine was 3kg heavier than the 2t. This put s more weight on the front and should help plant the front tyre to the floor. The 4mm is good. You could try moving that to 6mm for a quicker action. Finally the biggest difference i found came from being mm accurate setting of the front and rear suspension. Set them to 1/3 sag when you stand on the bike.

Good summary. I'd go so far to say all the bikes are way better than they were 6-10yrs back. Yes? But not all moves to a new bike make you a better rider. I have had friends that move to a new bike, but different brand, and their placings for the next year a worse. Should folks stay with one brand to maximize their placings?

Furgie. Rubber compund should be the same. Due to the crossing over nature of construction fibres, crossply have less suppleness to deform over obsticals as the carcass rolls/lays down, And the knobs squirm about. Radial lays tread down softly with no squirming and have supple carcasses.

I've just checked out the space view. You can't quite make out the trailer. So in all reallity it is not too big

The truck is big, and the trailer, and the house, and the road. Feck. That place looks scary!

Even though i rebuilt one of these 8ish years ago..... i didn't write done the bearing numbers. The wheel bearings will be the bearing number etched into the outer face (sometime it is even on the rubber seal). Knock them out after you have heated the hub and head set and take them into the SKF shop. He'll see you right. Ralphy

Beta = New, light, Good traction off idle, narrow, tight!!!! turning circle, 5k quid. Mont = Old design, bit heavier, Heavier steering is a bit heavy, can be a little abrupt off idle, 6.5k quid. Both are jetted well and will do upwards of 800-1000 hours of work before major work is needed. Not a difficult equation

Nice hill, your back garden?

Oh now that is a very nice motorcycle. Ohlins rear shock = I want it. Tubeless double walled rear rim - as Mavic do for their tubeless MTB rims. Very short bash plate will be stiff. The engine is a stressed member.... i don't know if that has been done on a mordern ish trials bike. LOADS of stearing lock with all the fork off-set at the top. The alloy fork brace and tube guard is inovative = I'd give the USD forks a go. What is the swing arm made of - cro-moly or aluminium?

I forgot to add.... Fuel float level set to 11mm (this is to the bottom if the floats' casting mark)

Well i fixed up the weird idle issue. The mixture screw was only 1.25 turns out rather than 3-3.5 turns. It appears like some moron had been turning it the wrong way. Just wait till i get my hands on him.... Hi Tapscott Yes my bike is running great here are my top tips for your bike.... The factory has a few updates - call Lampkin's to find out - kick start, head gasket, hot start (this is on this web site) 1 The cam chain is self adjusting. 2 Change the oil every 15-20hr, oil filter every second change, factory is 15-50, use FULLY (!!!!!!!) synthetic oil only, 800ml per change. 3 The bike is jetted wrong to pass Euro emissions tests. Change the main jet for #115. Move the needle clip to the bottom grove of the needle (note where the washers are for the needle, and DON'T get the diaphragm caught when the top cap is put back on). 3-3.5 turns (right up to 4 turns if the bike feels like it wants to stall) out on the mixture screw. 4 Make sure there are no splits on the caps that cover a couple of the carb breathers 5 Cut all the carb breathers short so they don't hang down low (it keeps them out of the water) 6 Get an NGK Iridium spark plug, and gap it to 0.6mm 7 Remove the front support/bracket on the rear mudguard - it hangs in the air flow to your air filter and restricts air flow. Stupid thing. 8 Remove an air baffle that is supposed to stop back firing from burning the air filter. 9 Have two air filters and ALWAYS keep a clean one fitted 10 Remove the stupid BETA kill switch & light control - these are often faulty - replace it with a Yamaha square unit. 11 Valves shouldn't rattle. It is more a sewing machine sound. Exhaust clearance=0.125-0.15 and Inlet=0.10mm. You have to rotate your engine forward to do the valves. 12 I ground off the rising hump inside the twist grip - now my throttle is a linear action. See how these go..... worst case you could need a valve grind or you could have a poorly electrical system (i have heard of one instance) . Again call Lampkin's (very helpful) Ralphy

Screws could do it but I think you can buy the tyre inserts. Have a look in the web. How the h*ll will you stop the bike coolant from freezing. Does it need anything special?

Hi Richard. Welcome to the team. There are some great tips and a training sheet available from the Australian Trials web site

I'm 6'3" and use a higher bar. I wouldn'd ride without them.

What he said. WTC trials sections need to be realistic. It has taken me a while but now i agree with no-stop. Lets bring the sport back to what most people think is ride-able not the silly hippity hoppity (trademark ) stuff most riders can't do.