sparks2

Hi The picture is of the original production Greeves trials bike. As far as I know the hubs were made by the British Hub Company specifically for Greeves. I do not know of any other fitment. The Bantam / Tiger Cub type (of which there are plenty around) look similar but are cast of course.

Hi A 21'' front wheel and tyre is one of those compromises you might have to make for the sake of practicality. I do not know of a 20'' trials tyre.

Only slightly better than the Mk 1

Exactly

That's nothing more than light surface rust. Nothing to worry about. An occasional wipe with WD40 will suffice.

No, I take your point about the condition. In my experience some work is always required to produce a reliable bike from what is after all a 50 year old machine. But there is absolutely no need to over restore the bike or make it into a 'modern' pre-65 trialer. The ignition question - I believe the original, energy transfer system, never worked particularly well even in more knowledgeable and more youthful hands. If you can get it running and starting well with the energy transfer system all credit to you. But the modern electronic systems are very good and hidden from sight therefore need not detract from the historic appeal of the machine. As Woody once said, a modern electronic system is the best money you will ever spend on the bike. But really, worry not, you have a gem, well worth the effort and any money you may care to put in. Use it on the road, green lanes, observing at trials, a great retirement project and toy. Only my opinions and thoughts of course. Kind Regards Sparks

Why go to all that trouble to gain about 3/4" extra ground clearance. Cutting the frame surely weakens it. The standard frame (on trials wheels and tyres) has great ground clearance anyway. Regards Sparks

Congratulations -- You have quite a rarity - a BSA C15T as it came from Small Heath. I would agree with all of the above , preserve the bike for what it is. Regards Sparks2

Hi Just Google caswell Europe GTS1750 It's really good. I've now done 3 tanks (GF) with no problems so far. But I always drain down the tanks completely after use. Regards Sparks

Thanks for the mention Jon. I would say you are about correct (about 2'' (50mm) to the rear of the filler). But I had to rely on memory for that (from my original 247, bought new, 40 years ago tomorrow). Incidentally I've done a fair bit of work on mine since that photo. Now have a prop stand, gearlever with folding end, re-sleeve and new piston, new rear shocks, re-packed the silencer etc, etc. But still on points ignition. It's now taxed and tested and running on the road. Turns out to have a Swindon registration number, so would this, in all probability, have been bought new from Westbury Motorcycles??? Regards Sparks2

No doubt Trickymick's correct, but I still had to weld some extension plates onto mine to get them to sit and fit right. Regards Sparks

Mark - surely you mean colour co-ordinated.

Blue, same colour as the frame.

Hi There are 19 DOTs listed in an entry of 209. Included in the 19 are the 3 man DOT works team of Dave Younghusband, Eric Adcock and Bob Hart. There are some blanks against some of the riding numbers so that would suggest that there were somewhat less than 209 starters. Regards Sparks

Hi In the 1961 SSDT programme a J. Noble was down to ride a 500cc BSA. (which in those days would have been the Gold Star trials). His Club was the Edinburgh St George MC and riding number was 187. Could it have been a late change of machine?? Is this of help. Regards Sparks

That's a shame Hope you can rebuild it

I've had good results with Wren's waterproof dubbin

Hi Thanks for your reply zerorev3rev4 The pegs will miss the ports either way round. The transfer cutouts are symetrical, so again, will work either way. However, the consensus, is that the longer skirt should be to the front, just as you say. Thanks again. Regards Sparks2

Hi A light gear oil in the gearbox (any modern brand). And ATF in the clutch case. Regards Sparks

Hi Can anyone remember which way round the Cota 247 piston is assembled ? Long or short skirt to the front ? Thanks in anticipation. Regards Sparks2

Jeeves, I think I know where your coming from. But, my philosophy would be -- IF what you have is usable and looks the part and is even period then use it. What would happen if Jerry could not find, as is likely, a steel top yoke? Would years of anguish, shame and sleepless nights follow? Yours sparks

We don't do concours. Don't bother looking for Sherman tank bits. It's period - has to be - no one has valued these bikes for donkeys years (I know I have one). Keep it and enjoy looking down at ordinary mortals.

Don't see how a 'proper' one could fail. They are skillfully fabricated from mild steel, a Sherman tank like construction and weigh nearly as much. No fatigue problems with MS and far stronger than any aluminium alloy yoke, so how does one fail , Beats me. And, I agree with Woody it's not a later Montesa yoke. Save yourself a headache and keep it. It's strange we buy a new or nearly new bike and then 'have' to spend on the aftermarket or blingy bits just to make the machine that little bit better (or prove the healthy bank balance), and then look down on those unfortunates with standard machines. There then comes a time when everything has to be returned to 'standard' --- Madness. Yours again controversally Sparks

Yes, I noticed straight away, but just didn't think to mention it. I assume it must be a contempory mod rather like the stronger aftermarket Bultaco top yoke from SHM and Jim Sandiford. Interestingly the alloy yoke introduces some Bultaco type tiller effect (with the bars behind the stem), the very thing that the intelligent ones now try to do away with. As they say, keep something long enough and it comes back into fashion again , .... , and again. Why change it, it was probably designed and made for the Cota. Yours, controversally Sparks

Are you sure it's not just that the chrome liner has completely worn off, disintergrated, etc. I've seen this more than once.