htrdoug

Pics of handlebars mounts in detail if you please,Kind Sir

Oh that's what I'd been doing,As a matter of fact I always put any two-stroke in gear and rock it back and forth before starting it to prime the engine,I was a Maico rider BITD so if I didn't want kick-back I had a set procedure to follow. I'm running Maxima gear oil,oddly it's the same as JimmyZ was running but after 1 change to PJ1 Clutch tuner which did nothing to help the clutch disengagement but made shifting clunky like ATF a return to Maxima gave me a clutch that is free upon cold startup even after sitting a week. The next temptation may be to run the next step higher viscosity oil in the trans,which usually causes a firmer clutch pull,Just too see how it makes the clutch feel and how it shifts.I don't know which brand to try,so I will likely put that off for awhile,good experiment for hot summer I'd say. Next time I feel the need to try ATF I will use Valvoline Maxlife,It meets an impressive range of automotive manufacturers specs. P.S. I definitely don't care for Gas Gas clutch action after owning a Sherco,yet my vintage Fantic feels ok,even with it's firmer pull.

I'm going to have to remember what gear oil I put in last time,But my 2011 was sticking BADLY when cold and I was planning to do the Beta fix as it worked wonders on my Fantic,but my Sherco seems to have corrected itself and now works wonderfully. Everything I put ATF in makes the clutch work good but shifting gets clunky when hot,makes me worry about my transmission.

I'm unfamiliar with the design of that airbox,but whatever you do make sure nothing can fall off and go directly into the carb or cause unfiltered air to get in!

Center of bars kill switch is not easily contacted by accident while riding,and easily reached no matter which side the bike is lying on. Kill buttons just ground the circuit,so you could hook 5 of them in parallel and they'd all work. You can leave the center mounted on in place and just tap in a second one out by the left grip.

Now you can harass Chris about "How can a guy who owns a auto detail shop..." I've been told by a young man who has plenty of experience with them that the Sherco 125 got much better response in 2011.

My 240 with a Oko runs smoother than my 309,as smooth as my Sherco...and almost too snappy! I had to sell my TY350 since it was so flat accelerating it completely fouled up my timing when I got back on any other bike. Don't know about 200's yet but you can have a smooth running piston port engine, I've had a couple of Suzuki T500 street bikes that also run very well down low,plus piston ports don't wear out!

Borrow some parts from your temporarily dormant 280 to isolate the issue,see if you can swap throttle cables over,if that doesn't correct it then swap the carb,doesn't have to be jetted perfectly,just not leaner than the 125 carb(I am unsure which carb is on the 125s that year) Problem persists with different carb-look for air leaks in engine,problem goes away-repair or replace old carb. You might consider relocating kill button to a location that can be reached by your thumb without removing your grip from the bars,might give a new rider some peace of mind that she can keep it from running away from her. Twin kill buttons would work just fine.

So if Jimmy knows it's you the specs will change? He's got a pipe guard for me I need to pick up and I might buy a Ti header pipe from him,sold my TY350 and thinking about buying more carbon fiber for the 250. I'll be taking a spin on Jerry Young's 2012 290 on Dec2nd as my new buddy Bill who bought it is coming down to ride that weekend,I'll see how smooth it is.

Sorry,I don't,I will find out in the offseason but weather is far too nice around here now to go taking her apart for the winter refresh. The reason I answered above is Jimmy had this think just purring at any throttle opening yet after owning it for a few months it started taking longer to clear out each time I rode it,and just off idle it was blubbering. A quick cleanup and back to smoooooooooth again! didn't bother to take down jet numbers,eyesight has a bit of trouble reading them and don't know where my magnifying glass is.:no appropriate smilie for growing old and decripite:

May just be dirty,make sure the air passages from the inlet horn are clean,first spray with carb cleaner and then blast with canned air. "tip in" blubbering is due to all the inlet vacuum being applied directly to the pilot jet,drawing up a solid stream of fuel like a drinking straw. The air that comes in via the air correction or bleed passages foams the fuel a bit and help it break up to a burnable mixture.

I second that,well,don't know about comfort but they're as light as my Carbon fiber Hebo Zone2,and look cool as hell.

Well crap, I keep thinking I need to but a trials pedalbike... but half afraid I won't be able to do a damn thing but get hurt on one(Can't seem to do a single trials type move on a mountain bike)

Don't go with more preload than just a tiny bit of freesag like Copemech said,if the rear suspension tops out to much it'll have poor traction in the rough stuff,if the steering starts deflecting when hitting small rocks you've gone to far and will wear yourself out constantly correcting it, I haven't ridden a 2006 but I think you can still get good turning agility with a Sherco while still sagged enough to be stable. When I had my Gas Gas TXTedition just as you got the shock cranked up to get it to turn good the front end started deflecting constantly so I had to back off the preload and sacrifice ultimate turning,just made me work on technique more.

I'd give the DT wheel a go,if it has good braking action then I'd do what it takes to get a alloy rim laced up.Hell,I'd ride it with the steel rim until I had the money to swap rims,good strong brakes are the most important thing about old bikes,the energy you don't put into stopping or controlling weak brakes is energy you can utilize for riding P.S. I've always had better luck with lugged backing plate stops over torque arms,the torque arms seem to put sideloads onto the backing plate just enough to slightly vary the shoe alignment.

Nope,lots of guys your size and bigger ride just fine,it's all about technique. If you ride properly the bike doesn't care how big you are so much. Trials Inc. event in Little Hocking,Oh next weekend,come watch,it's just west of Pa. If you are near pittsburg then message BPutt here on Trials central,he can hook you up with a bike! And his son can show you how to ride!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jericho_%28TV_series%29 Thought it might be more relevant to today's generation

Or this guy would have responded that way

First off,I'm still a trials neo,but I can tell you the "13 felt smoother than the Smage practice bike I rode a few weeks before,and seemed to pull to the moon,almost like a powervalve bike except it had no step up in acceleration or exhaust noise.Down low it was very easy and controllable,not abruptness. I myself will be sticking with my 250,but it does make me curious about a Keihin carb as that could be the real source of the sweet running.Zuroske says he's always rejetted the Dellortos but this years Keihin seems right on the money. I really couldn't see anything I'd want to change on the new bikes,only adding in guards for the header and the forks,good,already has good,big footpegs and folding levers. My bike IS a pussycat,she lets me twist her throttle and hear that intake moan without getting me into trouble,yet pulls me right up anything I have the sack to try,It's best after I've been playing around on my Fantic 309,which hits hard on bottom and absolutely jumps when you crank her in a kinda unsettling way.That make my Sherco feel tame and nice and controllable.After The Stoney Lonesome trial which I had lent my buddy Shane my 250 for(He immediately bought one of the above 2013 after the trial!) my 250 felt like a Nitro burning funny car as I had spent the weekend aboard my old TY350,now that's a culture shock jump right there,so much so I cleaned the TY up and am going to shuffle it off to a new owner (Money for Blinging my 2011!) JimmyZ will have his 250 together next time I ride with him,I'll take it for a spin and compare it to my 2011.He'll be riding it it the West Virginia T.I. event this coming weekend I'd bet,which I will be skipping,I'm planning on attending Gilbert Reeds last event of the year in Little Hocking,Ohio but I may get a chance on the 2013 250 before then. It might be wise to stay off of a 2013 unless you have jingling pockets...

Well,here in Indiana we can actually ride on county roads with just a ORV registration(Depends on the county though),So a X-Ride would actually be street legal enough for me,Motorbike fund tapped out for now though...

http://www.denardise...s.com/50cc.html Make it a automatic! Kicker even goes the right direction

Slight Hijack,but here's two 2013 290's delivered to their new owners in Indiana today,no action shots because I suck and was too intent on showing everyone around my practice area Rode one,everything gets just a bit better each year,Power on the 290 just keeps pulling forever! But very smooth and controllable down low. I'll get a chance on a 2013 250 soon,JimmyZ didn't have a chance to get his own prepped as he literally pulled them out of the container saturday. The Yellow frame looks great,much better in person,kinda a safety yellow.

Hey,I'd sure jump on that offer if made to me...do you think you can register them? My KLX 250s feels like a damn Gold Wing to me on the trails.

I try to just speak to a real live person on the phone before getting very far into a transaction,I do the proper precautions too,it seems to filter out the shady types.