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For a dial gauge and adapter see E-bay (USA), item #140574740657 (BULTACO OSSA MONTESA MAICO MOTORCYCLE TIMING GAUGE TOOL). Timing requires that both the points and the stator be adjusted. If you have set the points at 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to 0.016 in) with the piston at 1.8 mm BTDC you are good to go. If you can not obtain the point setting of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to 0.016 in) with the piston at 1.8 mm BTDC, then you need to remove the flywheel and loosen the three screws that secure the stator backing plate and move (rotate) the plate in its slotted holes. If the points are too close with the piston at 1.8 mm BTDC, then move the stator clockwise. If the points are too far apart, then move the stator counter-clockwise. All of this involves removing the flywheel each time you change the setting, then re-installing the flywheel and re-setting the points and timing. A bit tedious, but well worth the effort to get it right.

I concur with the silicone sealant recomendations. Stay away from the super-glue stuff and just use a good silicone sealant like Permatex Ultra. I've used it for years on my Montesa's and it works great.

An update to my original question regarding the Electrex World electronic ignition kit for my 348 Cota. I purchased the kit and received it within three days via DHL. Components included a new stator, rotor, CDI unit, and plug cap. Installation was very straight forward and involved removing and discarding the original stator and rotor and installing the new stator and rotor. I used a dial gauge to set the timing at 17.5 deg BTDC, as recommended in the installation instructions. 17.5 deg BTDC is identical to the 1.8 mm ( 0.071 in)BTDC as recommended by Montesa for the 348 / 349 Cota's. With rotor at 17.5 deg BTDC it is just a matter of aligning the timing mark on the stator with the timing mark on the rotor. A two day vintage meet the next week provided ample opportunity to test the system. Starting was a welcome benefit. What was always a three or four kick routine when cold was now a one or two kick routine and I was surprised a couple of times when the bike started on what seemed like a half kick when hot. Can't say I noticed much difference at idle, but did notice a bit more response over rocks, logs, and uphill sections. All in all well pleased and nice to know that I don't have to worry about condensors, points, and timing.

Unless you are running lights forget about all but the black wire. Here is a short article about the condensor from Southwest Montesa. 'Disable the stock condensor on the backing plate. Purchase any good automotive condensor with a ground wire. Mount the new unit under the tank or in the open (I use a small hose clamp on the frame backbone) run the ground wire to the coil mounting bolt. Splice the condensor's main wire into the hot wire coming out of the coil.' Splice the kill button into the same hot (black) wire coming out of the coil.

I can confirm 3/16. You might also try 25x45x12 tapered bearings available from www.pyramid-parts.com.

The Amal L2627/402 carb is a MK2 2600 series. As previously noted, see the Amal website for parts and technical information

The overall length of a front brake cable is: Inner cable = 1075 mm Outer cable = 675 mm The correct mounting location for the lower adjuster is to the rear fender mounting boss on the left hand fork leg Length of the front brake stay (center to center)is 194 mm. FYI ... front and rear brake stays are the same length.

Sprocket sizes are certainly a personal choice, so I'll add my two cents. I have three 348's, one with a 10/38 combination and two with a 10/33 combination. I almost always ride the the 348 equipped with the 38 tooth rear sprocket. I just find it fits my riding style better.

"When kicking over the engine only turns every 4th kick and would seem not to be engaging on the other 3. Thanks folks" From what you have described it appears that the clutch is slipping. The clutch has to be fully engaged to turn the crankshaft. First make sure that the clutch cable has not been damaged (no kinks, bends, etc.) and that the clutch lever, on top of the left hand side case, returns fully when the clutch lever on the handlebar is released. If the problem remains remove the left hand side case and check the condition of the clutch plates. With the side case removed you should be able to see if the clutch is slipping when engaging the kick start lever.

Belldane I'd be glad to stay with the standard ignition, but my original post in this column comes with some mild desperation. I've been riding my '77' 348 continuosly for 34 years now, but over the past two or three years I've been plagued with points corrosion, that requires that I run a file over the points if I let it set for more than one week. I've changed points, using both EFFI and Motoplat, changed condensors (yes, it is mounted under the tank), changed coils, and changed stators, but can't seem to correct the problem. Hence my question about an electronic ignition.

Electrex World (www.electrexworld.co.uk) offers an electronic ignition conversion for the 348 / 349 Cotas (kit #STK-349). I'm interested in hearing from anyone who has made the conversion and can comment on the installation and subsequent performance.

You have late 79 or 1980 349 Cota. The lack of rear upper frame loop behind the seat and over the fender is the easiest way to distinquish between a 348 (actually 305cc) and a 349.

"Then again an extra 5 hours of practice a week would probably do more for your riding then all the titanium you can afford." Dan Williams ... priceless, this should be pinned at the top of every Forum.

BPilgrim ... The cases can be repaired, but as you pointed out you need to find someone who knows what they are doing. I repaired a similar failure on one of the 348's I purchased with a metal based epoxy, but I had all the pieces and merely had to 'glue' them back in place along with some extra epoxy for reinforcement. It's lasted more than 3 years at this point.

Ormplus is correct in that you can use them straight from the pack, but I've always coated them with tire patch cement prior to insertion. Just makes a more positive seal and never had one leak.

I concur with BPilgrim and also use synthetic (Amsoil Interceptor and Castrol ActEvo) at 50:1 in my 348's. The 32:1 ratio was fine back in the 70's, prior to synthetics but all that unburned oil just collects in the muffler and will eventually creates problems if not burned out.

I can't give you the RAL number, but Bultaco blue is PPG Grabber Blue, paint code DBU (Deltron Base Color) 2230. Same paint color (Grabber Blue) used on the 1970 Ford Mustang.

The spacer (more like a thrust washer) is located between the inner clutch basket and the inner side case. If you have access to a part diagram, as you have indicated, it is part number 0263.126.

The flywheel key is a half moon key. Use a small punch on one end and drive it out. No need to replace teh lock washer. Torque is 70 lbs. ft. for the nut.

Straight from the operator's manual: Gearbox: 300cc, SAE 90 Clutch and primary drive: 200cc, SAE 10W-30 Gas/Oil mix: 32:1 I use 50:1 with todays oils.

All kidding aside, you better stick with the manufacturers recommendations. There are four major types of antifreeze, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, organic acid technology (OAT)e.g. DEX-COOl, and hybrid organic acid technology (HOAT) e.g. Zerex G05. Their corrosion resistance varies with the composition of the engine components.

I can't give you the RAL number, but Bultaco blue is PPG Grabber Blue, paint code DBU (Deltron Base Color)2230. Same paint color (Grabber Blue) used on the 1970 Ford Mustang.

Keys can be obtained from Hugh's Bultaco, Craryville, NY USA (www.bultaco.com). Part number 188-001 for the ignition side and part number 188-007 for the clutch side.

I usually run 5 psi in the rear and 12 psi in the front on my 348's. Those pressures may be a little high for some folks, but it prevents spinning the rear tire on the rim and nasty rim dents in the front. Truth be told that unless you are a national class rider you will never notice the difference between 4, 5, or even 6 psi in the rear.

Sorry, but I couldn't disagree more with the term MotoTrial. As a 40+ year participant I have explained 'observed trials' countless times and almost always in response to a query of 'observed what'. 'Moto Trials' as mentioned by Dadof2 now just associates the sport with speed and motoGP, and motocross. The mere mention of Moto Trial will congure up visions of me racing around some track at break-neck speed. No further explanation required ... motocross, motoGP, mototrial, what's the difference. I'll stick with observed trials and the opportunity it affords to explain it.