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I'm surprised no one mentioned the use of silver solder vs standard plumbers solder. I have had nipple end failures with plumbers solder but never with silver solder. Silver solder creates a much stronger chemical bond and will withstand much more abuse than plumbers solder.

The seal spring, with very few exceptions, always faces whatever you want to keep in or out. As an oil seal, it faces the oil you want to keep in the fork and as a dust seal it faces the dust you want to keep out.

Just splice the stator wire and the condenser wire together in one spade connection and attach it to the coil.

There is a good description of the OKO at www.classictrial.co.uk.

Tell your wife, in a nice way of course, that she needs to stop standing on the foot pegs, with the kick-stand down, while attempting to kick start the bike. That will bend the kick-stand every time.

Assemble the head dry and torque to 24 ft lbs.

Hugh's Bultaco (http://www.bultaco.com/suspension.html) stocks them.

I've used Dennis Kirk (www.denniskirk.com). They have heavy duty Pirelli tubes in both 2.75 x 21 and 4.00 x 18.

Try www.rebelgears.com in Crossville TN. and search under Vintage Sprockets.

Go to You Tube and search on Ryan Young trial school and Ray Peters trials training. Great beginner and advanced videos.

It will look as if someone entered each digit with a center punch, i.e. a series of punch dots.

You can always make your own to the length you want. Just go to Venhill.co.uk and purchase one of their throttle cable kits.

Dan's comments are absolutely spot-on and what New England trials has experienced can also be applied to District 6 trails in Pennsylvania. One only has to look at the eight meet 2013 season where six of the eight meets saw five or less Novice riders. And this from a District that also used to see 20+ riders in the Novice class. By contrast Mid-Atlantic Trials runs combined modern and vintage meets in MD and PA that that typically will draw more attendees than the D-6 modern meets. The difference between the two is in the level of difficulty, especially in the Beginner and Novice classes. Not everyone has the desire to be a National class rider and the MAT website sums it best in this quote ... "We are not observed trials for the very best riders. We are trials for the rest of us, who still want to challenge ourselves, but with the emphasis on having fun". And Dan, I'm with you in regard to the name "Mototrials". I still cringe every time I hear or read it.

In the 17 digit serial number format the 9 digit is a check digit used to verify the VIN. If a specific calculation using the check digit does not match then there is a mistake in the VIN. The country of origin is identified in the first two digits with VS - VW being used for Spain. Go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_identification_number for a complete description.

Go to www.bjracing.com > Vintage Trials > RL250 Suzuki for modification suggestions.

I've used Rust-Oleum medium gloss black (between gloss black and satin black) on engines for years, with perfectly satisfactory results. It is just their standard enamel. No need for an engine enamel.

To expand on what has been noted above, most manufactures have adopted the 17 digit ISO standard for vehicle identification. In that standard the 10th digit is always the year of manufacture, as follows. 2001 = 1, 2002 = 2, 2003 = 3, 2004 = 4, 2005 = 5, 2006 = 6, 2007 = 7, 2008 = 8, 2009 = 9, 2010 = A, 2011 = B, 2012 = C, 2013 = D, 2014 = E, 2015 = F, etc, etc.

A common myth is that blue is lean and gold is rich (or the reverse). Gold and blue pipes result because the exhaust is running too hot. There are three reasons for this. The first and most common reason is that the bike is running lean. A lean mixture causes exhaust temperature to rise very sharply. A slightly rich mix normally will not cause blued or yellowed pipes. Second is the quality and thickness of the chrome and the steel and how quickly the exhaust pipe dissipates heat. And third is of course how hard the the bike is being ridden. Extended periods of wide open throttle (not likely on a trials bike) will obviously create more heat.

If you search some of the TC forums I think you will find that Caswell's tank sealer and Red Kote are most often mentioned and recommended. I've personally used Caswell's on at least 6 tanks, with excellent results. See www.caswellplating.com and www.damonq.com for additional information.

Rev 3 models came equipped with lights. If the lights were removed I suspect you will find the connectors tucked in above the radiator. Usually it is only the headlight that is removed and it has a two terminal connector. The rear brake light is seldom removed but just disconnected.

i recommend Gaerne Balance Oiled. Check out the video on this site. http://www.atomic-moto.com/Gaerne-Balance-Oiled-Dual-Sport-Boots_p_79.html

Check out www.mid-atlantictrials.com/. An eastern Maryland and Pennsylvania trials series for vintage and modern bikes that operates under the no-stop rules of the 70's.

I have had a similar symptom on my 2003 270 numerous times. All easily fixed be removing and throughly cleaning the carb, especially the pilot jet. Do that first before undertaking more costly and time consuming alternatives.

Unless you are on a level with Bou and Raga it won't make any difference what brand of front tire you use. Just adjust the front tire pressure to match the conditions you are riding in and you will be pleased with any of the major brands.

Thanks for all comments, greatly appreciated. Low speed throttle and 10T sprocket are currently installed. Sounds like a toss-up between the flywheel and the lower compression. I'll probably try the flywheel fix first as the bike is also used in no-stop vintage events. Yes, we allow modern bikes in our vintage events.