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Trying to make a 2010 TXT Pro 300 just a little more novice friendly. Can anyone comment on the merits of the addition of a flywheel weight versus a compression reducer. Would you consider adding both, or is that an overkill.

If the bike has been sitting for any length of time prior to your purchase, the least you need to do is: disassemble the carb and blow out all jets with carb cleaner. replace the slide if shows signs of wear. move the condensor as mentioned above. replace the points with Motoplat points, set to 4 mm. Do not use other brands, as they tend to pit. Set timing at 1.8 mm btdc

If you are not already familiar with it, acquaint yourself with www.mid-atlantictrials.com and come join us at the upcomng New Windsor MD meet.

Ron Check distributor / supplier www.kimpex.com. Page 545 of their Motorcycle catalog lists Ipone Synthesis 2 (strawberry type). On their home page click on Find A Dealer. They list F&S Yamaha in Spring Grove and two snowmobile dealers in Carlisle. Ipone Synthesis 2 is also listed in their Snowmobile catalog on page 1287.

349's with the 51M code were manufactured between 1979 and 1983. Can't tell what you have with so little information. Go to www.montesaweb.com and match your 349 with the correct year.

One product I have used consistantly over the years is J-B Weld (see jbweld.com). It is a two part epoxy and once hardened you can drill, grind or machine it. Works great on engine cases.

I've painted engines successfully multiple times in 40+ years of trials and never used a heat resistant paint. Quite simply, the engine does not get hot enough to require high temp paint. I typically use a good rattle can brand like Rustoleum in medium gloss black (not satin or gloss) for excellent results. Save the heat resistant paint for the exhaust pipe and muffler.

To be more specific, use an API GL4 75W90 gear oil in the gearbox and my preference is a 10W30 motor oil for the clutch, which is what the Montesa manuals call for.

Some other good sources for trials parts are 'In Motion' in the UK (inmotiontrials.com) and 'France Trials Classic' in France (francetrialclassic.com).

You could also try Buchanon Spokes and Rims at buchanonspokes.net

For top quality stock and / or custom spokes you can't beat Buchanon. Check them out at buchanonspokes.net.

Try InMotiontrials.com for parts. They are reasonably priced and have a good selection of parts.

As noted by Stillers65, there is substantial wear in the '3 pronged plate'. A certain amount of wear there and in the plunger, and in the clutch plates and discs can be compensated for by clutch cable adjustment. However, your original post indicated a problem with clutch drag and all of the items previously noted will lead to clutch drag and all will contribute to 'gunky' oil. Incidently, the design of the clutch release mechanism is one reason why you never want to sit for extended periods of time, on a Cota, with the clutch lever pulled in. It just contributes to the wear shown in your photos.

Just finished viewing the FIM No Stop video. Yes, it will place a little more pressure on the checkers, but it is a step in the right direction and so much better than the current stop and hop, and stop and hop antics.

No special tools are required. However, sometimes we tend to overlook the obvious, so before you tear it apart, have you checked the clutch cable for binding, kinks, etc.

My unrestored 1978 348. Purchased it 4 years ago from someone who bought it new, put 51 miles on it and stored it for 31 years. AllI did was clean it up.

Location of the splice is not that important, as you are just creating a path to ground. I cut the existing coil spade off and then crimped both the black coil wire and the kill switch wire into a new spade that attaches to the coil.

You will have the best results with a two wire kill switch. Splice one wire from the kill switch into the black coil wire and run the other kill switch wire to ground. Not sure about your Mikuni question. I have a Mikuni VM26 on my 348 and I just removed the Amal and installed the Mikuni. It fit without the need for any additional adapters.

360mm center hole to center hole is correct. 360mm were used on the white 349's.

I just sent a request to Wiseco for a quote on 24 std and 24 +25 348 pistons. I'll let you know if they can make them up.

I recently (Nov 2012) purchased two on e-bay from Y&R Segal in Israel. However, I believe he indicated they were all he had. Perhaps he can locate some more.

My Montesa manual provides the timing specs as follows: Cota 247 - below serial number 21M2999 = 4.0 mm Cota 247 - after serial number 21M3000 = 2.5 mm

The flywheel puller for a 340 Cota is 30 mm X 1.5 mm. Commonly available on E-bay and trials shops

Replacement of the crankshaft seals does not require that the cases be split. Just remove the flywheel on one side and the clutch drive gear on the other side to gain access to the seal carriers. Previous advice on removing the drive gear is correct. It is a tapered fit to the crankcase and requires a good fitting puller. Don't bother with heat as the gear and the crankshaft are both steel and will expand at the same rate. Tighten the puller and give it a couple of goods raps with a hammer. Retighten and hit it again, then retighten and hit it again. Repeat until it comes loose. If you have access to an impact tool that may help.

Crankshaft bearings are 25 x 52 x 15, bearing number 6205/C3. Be sure to use C3 bearings for the correct clearances.