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Serial number 12908 is a 1978 model. Malcolm Rathmell signature tanks were on early production Cota's (1976 and early 1977), then there was a short period of plain tanks, and then they went to the black and gold decal on the base of the tank at serial number 11307 for the 1978 model's. Remember that Montesa, as well as Bultaco and Ossa made "running" changes which made identifying models by year a little fuzzy at times.

I've gone the same route as Feetupfun, from the original Amal, to a VM26 Mikuni, to a 26 MM OKO. Could never get the Mikuni set up to where i liked it. The OKO works great with a 50 pilot jet, needle in top notch, and 115 main. Actually there is nothing wrong with the Amal if it wasn't for the fact that they tend to wear, especially around the slide.

Turn the counter shaft sprocket nut clockwise to loosen it. This also applies to the magneto / flywheel nut. They are most easily removed with an impact hammer.

Standard length on the 348's was 340 mm (13.4 ").

Transmission and clutch have a common reservoir on the 123 and 175 engines and the correct quantity of oil is 600 cc (20 oz).

See www.fluid-film.com. Works great and is easy to remove with hot water and soap.

Cylinder (barrel) = 23 Nm (17 lbs ft) Cylinder head in sequence = initially set to 15 Nm (11 lbs ft), then to final torque of 22 Nm (16 lbs ft.)

Here is an exact match from an auto paint specialist using PPG paints.

Greg, I'm not sure this is relevant for the earlier Beta's, but here is what the engine service manual for the Beta Evo series lists for the difference in size. In each case they are in increments of 0.01 mm (0.0004").

"When you say he raised himself off the ground do you mean he used his off leg to jump in the air and then he transferred all of his weight to his left? He kept a little pressure on the kicker to keep it in the right spot right?" That's the drill, although the jump is more of just raising up with all of my weight on the left leg.

Had a similar problem with my 03 Rev3 when I purchased it 2005 and did all the usual carb, fuel, plug, and wiring checks with no change. That is until I had it at a meet and had just started the 15 - 20 kick starting routine when another Rev 3 owner came up and said you can't start them that way. I was standing along side the bike and giving it what I thought was a decent kick. He straddled the bike, raised himself completely off the ground and came down with all his weight and speed and the bike was running. I've used that procedure ever since and it is always a 2 or 3 kick start when cold and one kick when warm

If it is going to spend the winter in an unheated shed I would recommend the following. Perhaps a bit extreme but will ensure a safe journey through an upstate NY winter.. Start and warm the bike up. While running, fog the engine with fogging oil. This will ensure that the crank and connecting rod bearings are coated. Dumping oil in the spark plug hole will not do this. Since your tank is coated, remove it and drain the gas. Even with a fuel stabilizer, the gas will deteriorate some over the winter and you can always use it in your snow blower. Remove and clean the carb. It will then be ready for fresh gas next spring. Coat all exposed bare metal with something like Fluid Film, or even WD40. Cover the bike. An old sheet as mentioned above is a good idea. Not sure what to recommend for the seat, although the mouse traps are a good idea.

From www.powersealusa.com. Vintage-Steel-Cast Repair There are many cast iron and aluminum cylinders with steel/cast liners in use today. PowerSeal USA offers a choice of upgrade and repair solutions for these. A NikaSeal layer can be applied to existing steel/cast bores. This technology has saved many cylinders that are worn beyond available overbore piston sizes. Additionally, the NikaSeal layer provides a harder, better lubricating, and longer lasting wear surface than the existing steel/cast iron bore.

Beta has an electrical junction box, the wiring looms, and the radiator cap all jammed into that small space. Usually you can force the box over enough to remove the cap.

Need some advice on what to look for on a 2014 Evo 2t 300 that will occasionally fail to up-shift into 4th gear (remains in 3rd) and at other times will fail to up-shift out of 1st gear. In both instances the problem will correct itself after repeated shift attempts and then will shift normally. The selector gear rivet has been checked and is secure in the selector gear mechanism.

I have the exact same set-up on a recently purchased 74 TY250. It would be nice to know what it is from.

Cylinder studs - 22Nm (16 ft lbs) Cylinder head nuts - 35Nm (25 ft lbs)

Lineaway, actually laying it on the ground did work once, since it evidently flooded the carb and then started. But that only worked once, Pilot circuit is clean as is the choke passage. I do have a spare Mikuni off of a 348 Montesa. I may re-jet that and try it.

Having problems with a 2007 125 cc Rev3. Bike will not start when cold. It acts as though the choke is not functioning. If I give it a shot a starting fluid it will start first kick and once warm will start repeatedly with just one kick and continue to run without any problems. To date the stator has been replaced, crank seals replaced, a carb o-ring kit installed, and the carb (Dellorto) has been off and cleaned at least 4 times, with special attention to the choke circuit. With all that done it still will not start when cold unless I give it a shot of starting fluid first. Would appreciate and thoughts on what to look for.

Go to www.betamotor.com > support, for the owners manuals, parts, and technical data.

Check the rivet in the gear selector assembly, item 7 in the attached figure. If the rivet in the selector (item 8) comes out, or becomes loose, the transmission will not shift.

Let me start by acknowledging the fact that I haven't tried to exchange them, but I do have a 2007 Rev 3 and a 2014 Evo in the garage. My guess is that it will not work. The rear leg of the Rev 3 pedal is longer, which accommodates the location of the master cylinder. The master cylinder on the Evo is positioned further back on the frame and the rear leg of the pedal is shorter. If you installed a Rev 3 pedal on an Evo, I'm not sure the push rod for the master cylinder will line up.

Obviously a personal choice, but I've always liked gloss black on the frame, satin black on the engine, and flat black on the exhaust for my 348's

Trying to confirm the timing on a 1983 Cota 350 (European MH349). Searching this forum has been inconclusive as timing is given most frequently as 1.8mm BTDC and occasionally as 3.0mm BTDC. I know 1.8mm is correct for the 348's, and I think it also applies to the early 349's up through the 81 white wonder, but I'm not sure it applies to the 82 and 83 models. Can anyone confirm the timing for an 83 Cota 350.

No spark after cleaning and washing it sure sounds like a water / moisture problem. Dry it out as Chaser has suggested and then check terminal connections for moisture ingress and corrosion. For the clutch concern, go to the Beta forum and follow the pinned article "Beta Clutch Fix".