grib

300 uses 230cc per leg, I prefer 5w.

Robin Packham at Falcon will rebuild any shocks.

I can't remember the actual grade I think it is 75w, its here: http://www.putoline.com/en/products/catalogue/segp_road/pgo/331/road/gear-oils/gear-light-/tab-omschrijving/

I used to use ATF but agree the gearchange is notchy, particularly when the engine is hot. I use Putoline light gear oil.

The ugliest Beta ever could only be the Zero.

You need to use the gearbox mainshaft and the clutch cover from the 303 as well as the clutch itself. You also need to make/have made a bush to fit the primary drive pinion on the crank.

I have what you need, drop me a PM.

There are parts diagrams here for the model you have posted a pic of and some newer/older ones too (the 50cc parts diagrams cover the 75/80cc too); http://info.motorsyk...lekataloger.htm they aren't exactly what you want but may be of use.

If its any help the output shaft is the same on all forward kick Fantic engines, except possibly a Section; the part number for all the others is 450.43.00.5600 but for a section it is 450.43.00.5601. I don't know what the difference is though.

Agree with Dadof2's last comment - the first thing I would check with these symptoms is the tank breather.

I don't think i have ever heard of someone fitting a larger front sprocket or smaller rear to tame a bike down.

Exploded engine diagram on Bill Pye's website here: http://www.nickandkaren.co.uk/frankfieldfantic.co.uk/enginediagram.html

Sounds like you need to adjust the clearance at the pushrod: Unscrew the cap from the middle of the clutch cover, loosen the locknut on the adjusting screw and then back the screw out so it is about a quarter of a turn out from touching the end of the pushrod. Tighten the lock nut & screw the cap back in.

The 307 manual I have is only the italian version - I dont have the separate translation sheet, but it is fairly obvious what is what (and there is always Google translate for the less obvious things). I have also attached the parts list.

The 303 manual/handbook is on Bob Wright's Fantic website (which it seems I am not allowed to post a link to for some reason) just over half way down the page. I got it from there and only have it saved as single pages so its probably easier for you to get it from there than for me to upload 4 separate files. I have attached a parts list though which may be of use.

Sorry, no. The closest I have is for a 307 - I can put it up if you want it?

These could come in handy - it looks like it needs some help.

I always use Simply Bearings - get the number off the old bearing (including the C3 suffix if it there - very important).

They are standard bearings - 6205/C3 and 6305/C3.

Theres's nothing wrong with choosing an older bike to learn on (but it wont be as easy to ride as something more modern). The Fantic you are looking at is 212cc not a 250 BTW. I don't know what used bike prices are like where you are but I definitely wouldn't pay that much for a bike as rough looking as that. Fantic parts shouldn't be too much of a problem but you may find yourself buying an awful lot of them if you want a bike that works properly and is reliable. I would echo what a few others have already said and suggest going for something 10 or so years old. A friend of mine recently started riding trials and bought a 2002 Montesa 315R for only slightly more than the price of this Fantic.

Thinking about it - it won't be the shaft because the teeth aren't on the shaft; they are on a pawl on the end of the shaft - you could do either without splitting the cases.

I would guess it has knackered the teeth on the end of the kickstart shaft and/or the idler gear. Easy to check - take the clutch off and have a look. Idler gear easy to change, kickstart shaft means splitting the cases - not difficult but a bit more of a chore.

The CDI, source coil and pick up are the only things you need for ignition - the rest of the stator is power for lights etc. If it is losing the spark when it is hot I would check for dodgy insulation somewhere first; most likely between the stator coils & backplate.

Handbook with torque settings is here; http://s292.photobucket.com/user/fantictrials/library/fantic240manual/#/user/fantictrials/library/fantic240manual?sort=4&page=1&_suid=13733944618480784788185855814 are the timing marks lined up?

He does but its probably better to phone him. He fixed my 240 pickup coil 6 years ago and it has been perfect ever since. website is http://www.nickandka...o.uk/index.html This was the coil I sent him: