neonsurge

Sorry to say that it's still not sorted and I'm totally baffled. DNF'd a trial today because of it - the bike was still knocking badly when chopping the throttle and running very "flat" (didn't want to pick up from idle and rev out cleanly). Not what you want when a lot of the sections involve very steep blasts up banks and over root with little run-up. It certainly feels as though it's running weak. The best way I describe it is when backing off the throttle from high revs it goes "KNOCK.....ding.....ding.....ding.....ding.....ding.....splutter" I've stripped and cleaned the carb, repacked the sliencer, flushed and replaced the coolant (checking that the impleller is working properly), replaced the plug and checked for air leaks (none found). The fuel valve in the carb (which I've had problems with in past) is working and the float height is correct. The timing is correct according to the information on beta-uk.com. I'll going to pull 'er to bits again this week and re-check everything but if anyone has any bright ideas, I'm all ears! EDIT: I'm using a different fuel and oil too.

Thanks guys, I've stripped and cleaned everything, drained the tank, drained and flushed the cooling system and ordered some new plugs since I'd run out (including a couple of them new fangled Iridium jobbies, just to see if they make any difference at all or if lastplacebrad is talking bullplop as usual). I've also removed and thoroughly cleaned the radiator, just in case. I'll get a can full of V-Force tomorrow and see how it goes. Interestingly, the "plug advisor" utility thing at http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk suggests an NGK BPR7ES for the Rev3

My Rev3 has recently started to run very hot. Last week I noticed it starting to pink a bit and this got progressively worse. The fan's on all the time and although it hasn't actually boiled over I think it was pretty close. It also seems to have quite literally burned most of the packing out of the silencer and it's generally pretty unhappy. I assumed that I'd managed to put a hole or tear in one of the carb boots but they both seem OK. I've pulled the flywheel and the woordruff key's fine and the timing's spot-on. The exhaust isn't badly carboned up (in fact, it's pretty clean). I've stripped the carb and everything seems OK there too. At this point I'm wondering if there's a problem with the cooling system. There's plenty of coolant in there so that's not the problem but I can't see an easy way of testing the pump. Is there a way? Would it be worth draining and flushing the system to eliminate the possibility of blockages etc. and what's the best way to achieve this? Any other ideas? Many thanks for any and all advice/suggestions!

Mr. RONALD MCDONALD, the official ambassador of trials currently in 93rd! Go Team Atom!

Q: Who would win in a fight between Lemmy and God? A: Trick question, Lemmy IS God!

C:\Documents and Settings\[username]\Local Settings is a hidden folder. Open Windows Explorer (hold down the "Windows" key and press "E"), open the "Tools" menu, click "Folder Options...", click the "View" tab and click "Show hidden files and folders" under "Hidden files and folders" in the "Advanced settings" section. Click the "Apply to all folders" button, then OK. Close and re-open Explorer and you should now see several more folders beneath C:\Documents and Settings\[username], of of which will be "Local Settings". The "neromediaplayer" files are probably an artifact of the codecs that are installed by Nero Media Player (funnily enough). You can probably cure this problem by simply uninstalling the player and/or audio/video codecs and reinstalling if necessary (or replace with something better like VLC Player).

An Italian person was rude to me once. Because of this, I now hate Italy and all Italians. Oh, and your favourite bike sucks etc.

Full results from last weekend's C&D national are on the SDMC web site. Podium pics are here. Results summary: D class small wheel: 1. J. Peace 2. A. Blacker 3. J. Dawson D class medium wheel: 1. D. Peace 2. M. Todd 3. T. Minta C class: 1. L. Walker 2. J. Burch 3. J. Stones

There's obviously David Knight but is he a bit too "current"?

My old bike had an ally cover that the previous owner had manufactured. See attached pic.

Like this you mean WARNING: BarryBoys thread link!

Happened to me too. Got 'em welded at the local engineering shop for a fiver. Did a very nice job, too!

The easiest way is to remove the flywheel, grab the end of the crankshaft and wiggle it around. If there's any play (no matter how small), your main bearing is probably gone or on the way out. It's not a terribly difficult or expensive job to replace but you will need to remove the engine and split the cases.

I had similar problems with my old '03 Rev3... running rich, fouling plugs, strange engine knocking etc. It soon started to be extremely smoky and this obviously pointed to leaky crankcase seals. Is there any movement in the crank shaft? If so, the main bearing may have gone and in my case it was this that trashed the seals.

To be honest, I'm not 100% sure. All the symptoms pointed to fuel starvation and I knew the carb was OK because I'd given it a thorough clean using the compressor. Anyway, I whipped the carb off again along with the silencer and mid pipe, drained the tank, removed the fuel tap and hose, blew everything out again, reassembled, put fresh fuel in and she fired up first kick. I can only assume that it was an airlock or some kind of blockage in the fuel hose or tap

It was bright, sunny and WARM, okay? :thumbup: BTW, it was a blocked fuel line. Once again, many thanks for everyone's help

Well actually is HAS been pretty warm here the past couple of days. Proper t-shirt weather yesterday when I cleaned the bike so I don't think freezing is the problem. It did seem like fuel starvation with the suddenly rising revs and all and thinking about it, when I took the carb off there was a distinct lack of fuel in there. I know the carb's OK now so I guess it could be a blocked fuel line or filter. I'll take a look at that tomorrow. Thanks for everyone's help!

After cleaning my '06 250 Rev3 yesterday, I removed the flywheel cover and ran the engine for a few minutes as usual. The bike started fine and responded to throttle movements so I turned it off and left 'er out in the sun for half and hour or so to fully dry off the plastics. When I went to put it back in the garage, it started but immediately picked up a lot of revs and as soon as I cracked the throttle, it died and I haven't been able to start it since. I've pulled the flywheel and the woodruff key is fine. The stator looks immaculate (no signs of corrosion or evidence of moisture ingress at all). I've removed and cleaned the carb thoroughly. I pulled the plug and there's a decent spark although maybe not as strong as I'd expect. Hard to tell. I've checked the kill button and that seems to be OK. Any ideas where to look next?

OK guys, we all wanted a detailed and insightful analysis from an unbiased perspective and here it is. From "I want a 4RT" honda_tlr no less. C'mon, what more do you want?

rcgod's suggestion is fundamentally correct but many recent XHTML parsers will complain about the use of "align" as a tag attribute. The solution is to use the "vertical-align" CSS directive in either the linked stylesheet or inline: <td style="vertical-align:top;">Some text</td> Either way will work of course but those of us who have to comply with every random standard that customers come across and consider to be holy gospel are acutely aware of this kind of thing.

OK, cards on the table: I think I'm being talked into entering an enduro on the Beta (long story) and don't want to have to stand up for 2 solid hours' riding, especially on the faster bits. I'm also thinking about other practicalities like handguards and richer jetting etc. Maybe even a set of knobblies with appropriate mudguard spacers. Also, being a fat lazy sod it might be nice to have something like this anyway AMCQ46: That's exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for but instead of zip-ties I'd like to use quick release rubber straps somehow. Do you know who makes those "generic" trials bikes seats?

I like the idea of the Scorpa Longride and the similar setups available for the 4RT. I want something similar for my Rev3. Obviously there's not a lot you can do about expanding the fuel tank on a Beta unless you're up for a bit of extensive cutting and shunting (which I'm not) but there's always those fork-mounted auxiliary tanks. What I really want is an easily removable seat unit. Before I start experimenting with sheets of plastic, a hot air gun and a hacksaw, does anyone know of anything similar that's already commercially available? Or maybe other SSDT-inspired solutions?

What (if anything) did you guys use to re-seal the manifold after removing the reed block spacer? I gather there's quite a bit of sealant in there from the factory.

I thought compulsive blinging was a disease that only affects 4RT owners. Obviously the virus has mutated and is now blighting the lives of Beta owners too. We should start a support group or something. Or maybe only southerners are susceptible.... 'round these parts, broken mudguards, bent bars and mashed footpegs are badges of honour Seriously, nice bikes chaps!