Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

All Activity

This stream auto-updates   

  1. Past hour
  2. Mystery solced. There is a star shape adjustment behind the purple adjustment that can be seen on the bottom. I m still not sure which one does what since I cant find tech info on it. I ll ask later on the general forum! Our shocks are mounted upside down compared to the one in the link that is mounted on a gas gas.
  3. This link you sent is for the 4 way adjustment shock. Not the one I have in my bike. You and I prob have the same is called a 3 way I believe. (I can only see one adjustment though), maybe they re counting the spring spanner as a second adjustment and in this case I just need to find the 3rd one . lol Let me flip the bike upside down
  4. More or less like this:
  5. I think I have a 3 way. lol Reiger is a little lame on their tech info. supposedly they don't want anyone touching their shocks but certified people. I m not necessarily changing anything without a lot of riding first, but I would like to understand and know how it adjusts.
  6. FWIW, with the 4-way shock, your best bet is to not touch anything It's really easy to make it work like crap. This is why I tend to prefer the two way these days... less to mess up.
  7. My dealer is Stu from Jacks Cycles. Great guy but I like to research and figure out things just for the fun of it. Its always nice to know well what you have in hands. The gas gas GP manual gives very vague info on suspension! the trans oil capacity Stu told me to start with 400 cc. here is where I stand: I notice that my Reiger shock is a bit different than models I found online. Tech fork is all figured out. I found a link on sent an email to Ryan few days ago. waiting on answer Gas gas manual is very vague about suspension adjustments. the Splat shop link has a Reiger that is a bit different than mine. Mine does not have 4 adjustments. it does not have the bottoming reboud, hydra stop and high speed compression adjustments. it looks like this specific model only has one adjustment No idea yet of manufacture volume for Trans oil. Stu told me 400cc thats all i have for now. Tech forks are figured out. there is a great link at Thanks for your help
  8. Today
  9. Thanks lowbrow , I was thinking the alloy spacer not the insert , so may give it a go it's running a kehin carb , unleaded plus fuel 62 ml putoline 2 stroke oil per 5ltr . Not checked jets yet but tried the mixture screw in a bit further , doesn't seem to make a difference what map it's on . Plug looks fine doesn't do it all the time . Read on here that some S3 gold inserts are not the correct volume so am going to check that out . I built a Villiers engine bantam a while back and had a similar problem when it was hot it banged away like a whore on speed, had the head milled out to a larger volume and it transformed the bike .
  10. Seen this happen on someone’s Sherco before and now happening on my Trs... When giving it a really big handful, rather than shutting off straight away when I shut the throttle off it keeps revving for a split second or so and then revs down... almost like the vibration of the bike is causing to rev. Happens most when bike is stationary and I rev it to clear it out.... Any ideas anyone?
  11. I meant the former. Best to relax a bit and always assume people are generally good... even on the internet.
  12. If your talking about Jeroni Fajardo finishing fourth regularly then yes On the other hand if you are talking about the presentation of facts to back up what I said then I think it is sad that you think that, as a person should always be able to back up what they say or they are an idiot.
  13. That's more than a little sad...
  14. He may well be the most unapproachable of the of the top ten but when he does speak he makes himself clear.....he is not for example like Busto or Graham Jarvis in his delivery. Re the resident 4th for Fajardo he has a 4 as part of his Geronimo Logo on his helmet and his shirts The number 4 is adopted on his merchandise JF4 and his internet site alongside his name Jeroni Fajardo 4 Fajardo positions outdoor indoor 2008 4 2009 4 2010 4 2011 4 4 2013 3 4 2014 4 4 2015 3 4 2016 5 4 2017 4 3
  15. No, do not disconnect the rotor bolts, and certainly not the brake hose. We always remove the disc plastic protector when removing the rear wheel, makes it easy to install. As you remove the wheel spindle/axle, hold the wheel with your right hand, unhook the chain over the sprocket and let it hang over the left side of the swinging arm, then swap hands, so now holding the wheel with your left hand with the wheel slightly higher than the axle holes, you can now remove the caliper from the top of the disc by gently wiggling it so it doesn't catch on the rotor bolts - you'll soon see what the guys mean, don't stretch the brake hose just be carefull there. With that M5 silencer bolt, once you have removed the broken piece there is enough aluminium around that area for the hole to take an M6 thread, just be carefull not to go too deep, measure the depth of the hole when you get the broken piece out - use a new drill bit for this, unless it is easily unscrewed. Bye, Peter B.
  16. +1 for the Jitsie pre-filter.To remove the rear wheel,remove the axle and lift the wheel up a few inches.The caliper stays on the brake line and the rotor stays on the hub.A wee bit tricky,but you'll figure it out once you do it right.
  17. Thank you to everyone!! Funny, I was just trying to remove the rear wheel this if I understand you right I need to remove the rotor bolts In order to remove the caliper and bracket assembly....I’m also assuming you must disconnect the brake hose to get the wheel out?
  18. I think reading anything two events into the season is a bit of a stretch. All competitors drop their worst event, so it isn't the end of the world. I'm hopeful Busto will go replay Montpellier a few times and see how he looked. Shame is a decent motivator...
  19. I Like that air filter idea, my air box is ugly right now, I guess I just have to be real careful as I clean it......
  20. At the moment that wasn't a good decision, was it Colomers idea I wonder?
  21. You've never met fajardo then? He's the most unapproachable out of the top 10. Didn't think he was always 4th
  22. I second that comment about watching the kickstart bolts. I locktite mine and they seem to stay relatively well. But they still tend to come loose. I’ve broken the linkage, so regular maintenance/inspection is a good idea I think. I’m running a Ti setup with zerk fittings now. One thing I wish they did was run regular bearings with seals and zerks. But probably for most trial uses the factory setup is fine (I ride trails most of the time). I use a filter/funnel for all my fuel. Changing the fuel filter is a pain (the engine has to come out)- and while it doesn’t need to happen very often, I’d like to keep it to a minimum. The filter and fuel pump are common parts. I’ve found about every 100 hours mine have liked to have the TPS reset. Easy if you have the cable and software. I wish BTWICE was still selling them. (Factory ones were ludicrously expensive) I also change gearbox oil often, it also lubes the main bearings. I loosen all the clutch bolts and pop the cover out a bit to drain the last- it seems to work well for me that way. I also measure how much I get out to make sure I get it all. I fit a ‘Super Easy Start’ that I came up with on both of mine. It is good for troubleshooting as well as making it really easy to start. Mine likes a very healthy kick, make sure to take slack out of kickstart mechanism first (like all bikes really) Mine have been really good for me. I have almost 400 hours on my Explorer, although I recently got a Beta 4T to use a bunch of the time to keep from getting quite so many hours on the OSSA. If they were still making them I probably wouldn’t have done that. have fun with it! Mark
  23. Dont know if it works , I heard some 4RT owners in cold climates install knitted ''Tea cozies'' on the cylinder/head to aid cold starting... Good to hear you got sorted, Keep your feet on the pegs
  24. Pretty hard to beat the SKF, seem pricey but kit includes stainless clip, Wiper seal and oil seal.
  25. Try one of these before you spend any more time and money on new seals. Best £6 I've spent on garage equipment - works every time.
  26. buy one of these: The new type filters are easy to remove but this thing is even easier and keeps the actual filter spotless
  1. Load more activity