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Well when mine went the dealer said he knew exactly what was needed and the parts were already in stock and he had done them before. My TRS dealer helped me install the parts in a hurry because we wanted to go riding.

My lads Rev 50 was due a plug change, I removed the old one NGK B5SH. A quick google indicates it should be a NGK B9ES. My issue is the thread is longer but does fit ok with hitting the piston but it also seems to rev a lot higher on tick over. Were these swapped for any reason or has previous owner just fitted an odd plug? And why would it rev a lot higher on ticker over? Any help or info would be much appreciated.

Has anyone noticed a change in the throttle response after switching from the magura? My impression is the domino makes the bike softer, almost like you don't quite get the full throttle. Free play is setup ok

Thank you. I looked at a YouTube TRS video and figured this might be the issue though I don't much like the idea of removing the starter motor in order to replace it. Weird though, my nearest main dealer (sounded like a genuine guy) said he had never heard of it happening. Your reply very much appreciated, cheers.

I she blows you can disconnect the starter by removing the idler gear very easy. (spur gear between the starter and the sprag)

There were some lovely bikes there…. I suppose I just said Bantam because they usually look the most ‘trick’, Draytons etc, so thought they were most likely to feel a bit more modern like the Fantic…. It’s a bit of a minefield with the old bikes unless you’re clued up. To be fair, I’d love a well sorted Cub or C15 but that would be nothing like the Fantic so getting off topic a bit…

Had you thought beyond a Bantam ? I was observing for a bit of a change at that GV trial. Amongst the entry there were some lovely smokers, Cottons,James and Francis Barnett. Then of course there are also Dot's and Sprites.(Among others) These often have the later 250 Villiers motors in them. These can be absolutely cracking bikes. But like the Bantams, not cheap if you spec them up.

Horrible isn't it. Sprag clutch, should continue to work until it doesn't and then you get to replace it. Already had one go myself, it's the cost of having electric start. Seems to be safe to still ride after the bearing blows, it doesn't seem to spew metal parts everywhere.

Hi all, Has anybody suffered this and found the soloution? 2022 TRS One RR starts and runs normally but there is a VERY loud metallic 'clack' sound when you switch the engine off as everything comes to rest. The 'clack' is the last noise to be heard. Something to do with centrifugal pawls retracting maybe? Any thoughts gratefully received because something definately isn't right. This has only just started happening, it was all fine before. Thanks for all comments and happy riding, Trevor

Is john lee close to you? https://www.johnleemotorcycles.co.uk/

Marine organisims 👍

Oil and its derivatives (petrol diesel etc) is plant based.

Do you ride an electric bike, or can you buy vegan friendly petrol and oil ?

The difficult but is educating yourself on what’s good and worth having and what’s unsuitable. I’ve been looking and it’s a bit of a minefield if you don’t know what you’re looking at..

Is you are prepared to spend the money, a trick bantam is every bit as good as a standard fantic, but will cost 3 times the price.

I would have to give the alpinestars the nod for stiff when considering ankle issues. My wife's garnier are much softer in almost every way. Good luck.

Glad you had fun. Try reaching out on Adv rider. Go to the trials forum. No events during the week, but you might find some riders to hang out with.

Were the original sprockets aluminium? This one is magnetic and all references I see to the brand on line are all old so it could be a 25 year old aftermarket sprocket. Is the OEM offset listed somewhere? Everything looks straight as far as I can tell with a tape measure, eyeball and the bike together. One odd thing is that the paint is rubbed off the swingarm where it touches but I would expect to see it more torn up from the chain. If I mis align the snail axle adjusters by one step, I get about 2 mm clearance.

No of course it shouldn't rub on the swingarm. Here are a few possible reasons for why yours is rubbing. The axle may not be square to the centreline of the bike. The swingarm arms may be bent to the side. The sprocket may have too much dish. You may have the wrong length spacer on the brake drum side although it looks right to me in the photo. The sprocket looks like an aftermarket one I ordered in at a local shop 25 years ago and did not accept because it had too much dish.

I am in Bedfordshire where within say 50 miles can I find a shop with a decent set of alloy trials bars I can examine in the real world?

Depends if it is a fuel screw or air screw. Simple, usually air is on the air inlet side of the slide towards the air box. More air for leaner (out) or less fuel (in).

I have a new to me TY250A twin shock and the rear sprocket lightly rubs on the swing arm. Do they normally have very little clearance? The bike appears unmolested and with low hours. The axle hardware/ spacers match what is shown on the part list. The rear sprocket is steel, looks original and is marked PORTCO YA-311-53. The sprocket runs reasonable true and is not bent. My attempt to check sprocket alignment with a home improvement type laser suggests that the rear sprocket is about 1.5 mm farther out than the front sprocket. Is there something else to consider before installing a 1.5 mm spacer or taking 1.5 mm off of the mounting surface of the sprocket? Purely by eye, the sprocket looks 1/4" out from the front sprocket.

Thanks Rich, What’s the BMCA British series, I don’t know that one? I’m going off at a tangent now but I rode my Fantic at a Golden Valley Classic and Twinshock trial the other week on their Clubman route and had a great time, a day full of ‘real motorbikes’ but those trials are few and far between. I do like that I can ‘do more’ on the modern bike but it’s all rev and squirt and lacks charm. And although I love the Fantic I’m thinking there is more variety and more of a ‘scene’ for the pre 65 bikes. I’d love a Cub but with other trials bikes I’ve found that I get on better with two strokes, hence wondering about a Bantam. Interestingly, (or stupidly), I didn’t realise my Fantic had a reed valve!…. And the brakes, which I keep on top of, are no problem at all…. Guess I need to try and get a ride on one..

What should they do with all the dead animal hides, would you have them buried or burned? <- a reasonable question.

I have a bantam and have ridden a borrowed fantic on occasion. The fantic brakes are better and the bantam doesn’t have a reed valve so won’t rev and provide as much power for longer hill climbs. Having said that I ride the bantam on modern trials at clubman level and it does manage very well. Perhaps the thing which your missing which is what I suffer from and no longer why I have a modern bike is that I can ride most things on the bantam and ride the BMCA british series which gives me best of both. I’ve never really taken to twin shock because the bantam will do it all and enter British events. Classic bikes are also on the up so a British pre 65 will always hold good money long term. Youll also find that pre 65 events have easy middle and hard routes that are generally easier. Just don’t forget a “competitive” pre 65 will cost a fair bit more. Rich