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About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1971

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  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club

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  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
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  1. Tyres can definitely be an issue, some brands really struggle to maintain lower pressures. IRC are well known for it & your tyre being of an older generation may also be the problem
  2. I'll drag my homogulation headlight out tomorrow arvo when I wake up & see what the bulb in that is
  3. 01 on is basically the same. Look on ebay for a blue head light & you should be okay. The 99 & 2000 model lights are actually usable, has a real bulb in it & will fit The road legal kit which mine came with should work but are butt ugly
  4. If you're unsure of the condition of the big end etc it's best to give it to someone who knows what they're looking for, ideally a trials dealer if possible. A engine reconditioner will be able to accurately measure the bore for you I find splatshop's site great for ordering parts with how suggestions of other parts needed come up at the bottom. I would suggest replace the waterpump seals & bearings while the engine is apart, check the shaft for grooves as well Do not remove the head from the cylinder if you haven't already, it's not necessary for doing the piston & will save you needing to buy new o-rings which are 1 use only
  5. Are you sure you don' have a 290 rather than 250, pretty sure the 250 is 70mm bore. Complete 290 top end is a straight swap Where are you measuring piston size? Standard clearance is .03/.04mm measured just above the rear cutout
  6. Sealed is what the later bikes came out with standard, Sherco normally keeps the same part number for upgraded parts I have the sealed bearings in my 04 Jarvis & they seem to have lasted longer
  7. Have been having issues with fork seals not sealing for very long, inspected the chrome & there are no nicks or rust etc on them The leg that has the biggest problem definitely has noticeable movement when extended so it looks like the top of the slider is worn I'm thinking that I'll need top have them bored & bushes fitted but so far I haven't found a 34mm fork that uses bushes that I can use & the coated bushes that can be bought from bearing suppliers are either 32mm or 35mm inside diameter Any suggestions of a fork that I've overlooked or somewhere that may be able to help
  8. Look in the posted links above for the manual on doing the main bearings, hardest part is getting the engine out. Make sure you replace the crank seals with viton versions Describing how to check the big end for wear is a bit hard but basically hold the crank steady & push & pull on the rod to feel whether there is play up & down rather than side to side. Piston wear really needs proper measuring equipment but if it has gouges or large amount of discoloration below the rings replacement is definitely needed. Piston kits aren't cheap, find out what Beta charges for a 270 piston kit as they are the exact same part made by vertex & may be cheaper How far from splatshop are you? Chris etc are a wealth of knowledge & should be able to supply everything you need, I've done my bearings before with parts from them & I live on the other side of the world
  9. Rebuild kits are plentiful on eBay & come with all sorts of bits Your overflow problems could be caused by the tube inside fouling the floats, it's quite tricky to take the bowl off without catching anything, the keihin is just as bad. A clear float bowl can be helpful at times & last time I looked was only about a tenner
  10. What brand? Rear view like that is hard to get too much detail from but it does look very Beta like with built in tank & left side clutch
  11. If you're talking motor then pretty much all, even the sidecovers will fit but then it won't look like a D model motor Rest of the bike is much the same story
  12. Big difference between the Sherco & Beta is that the Beta has 1 more gear which means 5th is the first of the between section gears unlike on Shercos Normally needs to be something big to require 3rd on the non stop era bikes
  13. Grooved float jet needle generally causes flooding. Most likely cause of no fuel getting to plug is gummed up pilot jet, if you're worried it doesn't cost that much to replace every jet in your carb
  14. Have 1 of their rear mufflers, it uses perforated tubing inside fibreglass packing so it breathes well. Not particularly loud either which is a bonus
  15. Mid-atlantic trials does a ready jetted Oko for $110us. They say 26mm for stock exhaust & airbox, 28mm for free flowing exhaust & opened up airbox I've been using a Oko on my Sherco for years & haven't had any problems with it