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tony27

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About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1971

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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club
    manawatu-orion

Profile Information

  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Self tapping screw wound in gently then pulled out with vice grips. Don't wind it in too far or you risk damaging the bearing
  2. Engine number should be above the swingarm pivot
  3. Shouldn't need to double up on gaskets, I think that was a much later bike that had different thickness gaskets to alter squish gap to the head & also port height I've always removed head & cylinder in 1 piece rather than needing to replace the o-rings between the 2. Fitting the cylinder over the rings isn't hard but that is all down to making sure the gaps are centred over the locating pins before you start. Use something under the piston to hold it steady then lower the cylinder over the piston while pressing in on the rings through the gap in the transfer ports, you can twist the cylinder a small amount to make the rings sit around the locating pins if needed, compress the lower ring the same way & the cylinder should slide down to whatever you used to stop the piston rocking
  4. To play devils advocate here, what difference is there between these Honda copy motors & using a replica frame, neither is truely period & replicas rarely are 100% copies of the original
  5. Unfortunately Beta uses different hubs to the other manufacturers, as you've found the widths & spacing of sprocket & disc are different. Most of the other manufacturers share hubs & the rear wheels especially swap over It's likely that as well as spacing the sprocket & disc the correct amounts which also need to be relative to the rim centreline/edge you would also need to make spacers to centre the wheel in the swingarm Could be a lot of work that won't be as strong as the original parts due to longer bolts & the sprocket & disc no longer located on the inside to the hub casting
  6. If you look at the top slot there should be a line punched on the stator, rather than retarding the ignition I would line that up with the edge of the casting which is standard position & see how it goes. Mark looks a long way from where it should be The earlier ignition covers with built-in sprocket cover never sealed right, they distort basically right in front of the sprocket & throw chain flings water through the gap. I changed to the 06 on cover as soon as they became available & haven’t had a problem since, use sealant instead of the original o-ring to maximise benefit
  7. If you didn't get the motor hot enough to dry the exhaust out properly after submerging it chances are you're going to need main bearings soon. Is the play in/out with the primary gear off or up/down? Up/down is worn out, the primary gear being tightened up should remove in/out play Replacing main bearings isn't the worst job as long as you take your time, biggest thing to be careful of is the gearbox. The whole job is in 1 of the links pinned at the top of the section
  8. Very nice, are both running standard porting? I have a V-Force reed block to fit into my C model but haven't had a chance to get inside the cylinder to open the intake housing out for it to fit. Do you credit the reed with the wider power spread?
  9. Pretty much all front wheels from 02? onwards should fit so a replacement shouldn't be that hard to find although later bikes went to coloured rims
  10. If I remember correctly the hose from the pump isn't quite right as supplied. I suggest you give Chris at Splatshop a call & see what he can suggest, has always been very helpful as a lot of people on this site will agree
  11. I had a similar problem when I fitted ARC folding levers when I first received my Jarvis rep, I ended up working our where the pivot needed to be & machined a large enough hole to take a bush, was only about 1-1 1/2mm difference but it fixed the problem If you have an engineering background or know someone who has access to a lathe & mill it's an easy job
  12. Good that's something simple In answer to your question about the partially covered hole in the flywheel, that is normal
  13. Hadn't opened the photo to see the rivets, if I'd looked closer I would have seen it is on the opposite side of the headstock to mine There is a lot more detail on the label than what is on your bike as well
  14. Kart guys etc swear by it
  15. Nothing like the number on mine. A quick look at as much of the bike as I can see in the photo says probably between 2001 & 2004 model but I'd probably lean towards the older age from the fuel recommendation label Unfortunately the engine number on mine doesn't help with size so I doubt yours will as well, can be found across the back of the cases in front of the swingarm Easy way to tell if it's a 2001 is rear caliper position & number of spokes, 2002 the caliper moved to inside the swingarm on the bigger bikes, I think the 125s & 200s kept the older above the swingarm calipers for at least a year longer,. Spoke count dropped from 36 to 32 at the same time