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tony27

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About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1971

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  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club
    manawatu-orion

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  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. There are 2 or 3 different swingarm extension plates available, 1 type involves cutting the swingarm plate off at approximately 45 degrees the same amount both sides & welding the new parts on. The ones shedworks sell should lengthen the swingarm 40mm or so. The other type I've seen on eBay involve cutting the end of the axle slot off & sliding the new part in for welding which should be easier to get the axle slots perfectly inline. These ones may give slightly more length
  2. I'm wondering if top friction plate is in wrong place or pressure plate not lined up with the marks on the hub. Been a while since I've been inside my motor, push rod is turned down both ends to different lengths going off photo on Splatshop's site, could be in backwards with the shorter length at the clutch end
  3. The main point he makes is pretty true, when someone of Trump's age makes rules for short-term gain they won't be alive to deal with the consequences but those of his age & younger will have no choice. Think of how different things are now from when you were his age, you certainly didn't make the decisions & those that did are generally not with us any longer
  4. Have you tried different oil heights? Lower the level by 10mm & see if it helps
  5. Anytime you see a level quoted it will be with the fork compressed & no spring, rod should be extended as well
  6. Self tapping screw wound in gently then pulled out with vice grips. Don't wind it in too far or you risk damaging the bearing
  7. Engine number should be above the swingarm pivot
  8. Shouldn't need to double up on gaskets, I think that was a much later bike that had different thickness gaskets to alter squish gap to the head & also port height I've always removed head & cylinder in 1 piece rather than needing to replace the o-rings between the 2. Fitting the cylinder over the rings isn't hard but that is all down to making sure the gaps are centred over the locating pins before you start. Use something under the piston to hold it steady then lower the cylinder over the piston while pressing in on the rings through the gap in the transfer ports, you can twist the cylinder a small amount to make the rings sit around the locating pins if needed, compress the lower ring the same way & the cylinder should slide down to whatever you used to stop the piston rocking
  9. To play devils advocate here, what difference is there between these Honda copy motors & using a replica frame, neither is truely period & replicas rarely are 100% copies of the original
  10. Unfortunately Beta uses different hubs to the other manufacturers, as you've found the widths & spacing of sprocket & disc are different. Most of the other manufacturers share hubs & the rear wheels especially swap over It's likely that as well as spacing the sprocket & disc the correct amounts which also need to be relative to the rim centreline/edge you would also need to make spacers to centre the wheel in the swingarm Could be a lot of work that won't be as strong as the original parts due to longer bolts & the sprocket & disc no longer located on the inside to the hub casting
  11. If you look at the top slot there should be a line punched on the stator, rather than retarding the ignition I would line that up with the edge of the casting which is standard position & see how it goes. Mark looks a long way from where it should be The earlier ignition covers with built-in sprocket cover never sealed right, they distort basically right in front of the sprocket & throw chain flings water through the gap. I changed to the 06 on cover as soon as they became available & haven’t had a problem since, use sealant instead of the original o-ring to maximise benefit
  12. If you didn't get the motor hot enough to dry the exhaust out properly after submerging it chances are you're going to need main bearings soon. Is the play in/out with the primary gear off or up/down? Up/down is worn out, the primary gear being tightened up should remove in/out play Replacing main bearings isn't the worst job as long as you take your time, biggest thing to be careful of is the gearbox. The whole job is in 1 of the links pinned at the top of the section
  13. Very nice, are both running standard porting? I have a V-Force reed block to fit into my C model but haven't had a chance to get inside the cylinder to open the intake housing out for it to fit. Do you credit the reed with the wider power spread?
  14. Pretty much all front wheels from 02? onwards should fit so a replacement shouldn't be that hard to find although later bikes went to coloured rims
  15. If I remember correctly the hose from the pump isn't quite right as supplied. I suggest you give Chris at Splatshop a call & see what he can suggest, has always been very helpful as a lot of people on this site will agree