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About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1971

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  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club

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  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
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  1. Have a read of the link in the heavy clutch thread, oil capacity is 700ml for diaphragm clutch models according to the very detailed write up
  2. The 270 has more bottom end torque than a 250 which isn't a problem, the problem is that they produce a lot more power further up & will be a handful for a beginner
  3. Being so close to the heat from the exhaust will have contributed to the short lifespan of the fuel lines
  4. Using the choke lets in more fuel rather than air, more fuel cools the piston, more air leans out the mixture which creates heat. This is why air leaks are a major problem with highly tuned motors It sounds wrong but more oil means larger jets are needed as every extra oil molecule means 1 less fuel molecule getting to the motor
  5. Flywheel holder, from memory the sort that is basically a large pair of vice grip with pins on 1 face work ok with the other side being ok for holding the clutch hub
  6. Get rid of any damage that the key has done to the tapers, ant high spots stop the taper taking the load properly which then puts the load through the key Worse case will involve you needing to lap the tapers after filing off damage on the crank Make sure the o-ring in the cover is in good condition when you reassemble it or use gasket forming silicon on it
  7. Kids can get away with lower pressure due to their lack of weight, 2psi isn't unusual for 1 that still weighs 40kg or less
  8. When I rebuilt my motor you could move the crank up & down when the motor was still assembled. Bearings had never been done & motor was on standard size with so much end gap on the rings that I could turn the motor over by hand grabbing the end of the crank, with new bearings, seals & fresh bore there is noticeably more compression already To do the bearings is a full stripdown of the motor, if you need to do that due to play or rumbling then inspect every part in the motor & replace anything that isn't perfect along with all seals
  9. If the bike is running fine I wouldn't bother changing parts I suspect when you need to replace the seals you'll also need to do the main bearings Vent hoses aren't a necessity for your riding situation but fitting a set wouldn't be the worse idea
  10. The legs are generally clear coated which needs removing fully if you want to make them look better so it's not really just a cleaning thing
  11. Can only tell you that it's not a v-force reed, if it was the cage would be plastic, have no screws & your manifold would have the wings cut off To tell whether you have boyesen reeds fitted to the standard cage will require a shot from the other side
  12. What type of reed is fitted, if they are boyesen dual layer reeds they don't use stoppers. Any other brand on the standard reed block should require stoppers V-force reed block doesn't have stoppers
  13. Tyres can definitely be an issue, some brands really struggle to maintain lower pressures. IRC are well known for it & your tyre being of an older generation may also be the problem
  14. I'll drag my homogulation headlight out tomorrow arvo when I wake up & see what the bulb in that is
  15. 01 on is basically the same. Look on ebay for a blue head light & you should be okay. The 99 & 2000 model lights are actually usable, has a real bulb in it & will fit The road legal kit which mine came with should work but are butt ugly