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tony27

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About tony27

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1971

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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club
    manawatu-orion

Profile Information

  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
  • Gender
    Male

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  1. Have never owned a bike with the slow throttle, quite a few bikes come with the white fast throttle tube standard
  2. Have definitely seen a photo of him having the beer online in the days after his passing
  3. Simple fix then, a lot cheaper than needing to strip motor down
  4. Have always used domino, never broken 1
  5. You also forget that all those parts are probably not legal for use in the states anyway
  6. From what I can see I'd say the head & sidecover have been vapour blasted, easy enough to paint black if you really must Seat & tank are either a cover or one piece seat/tank unit Looks to be in really good condition & the things above would only matter to someone basically wanting a garage queen
  7. See if the spacers from your other shock swap over & give you the right fit
  8. It will be an insert that is normally fitted for use on 125s, see if you can remove it as it will have an effect on a 290
  9. The photos of the broken selector, does anything look different to your's? Before getting further into the motor I would be refitting the gear change shaft & operating the lever while watching what goes on at the indexing plate, you will probably need to spin the rear wheel or fit the clutch holding nut to the end of the shaft & use it to turn the gearbox If the shifting side is working properly you will see the spring loaded roller drop into the next recess around I guess it is possible that the pin in the end of the selector drum has broken so the cam isn't moving it properly, easy to check by removing the capscrew in the centre of the indexing plate & taking off the plate. Have a look at the photo of the selector drum in the link above by clicking it & you'll see what the end looks like I was hoping 1 of the guys from Splatshop may have been in here by now, they're definitely worth asking what they think is the problem
  10. If I can find the parts I'll show you where the engineered in weak spot is, basically the mechanism that grabs the pins on the end of the drum is only welded on the 1 side & the shaft is turned down quite a bit. I snapped the shaft on my first Bultaco branded Sherco & have twisted at least 1 other. When you twist the shaft at the weak point the lever hits the bashplate so getting first gear is a problem, can't remember if it affected changing down but I expect so, haven't had a problem since I fitted the short type lever
  11. Remove the primary cover, slide the spring loaded piece back so it clears the drum & it slides out. From what I can see both springs I mentioned are still in place but I would still be checking everything in that area. Make sure all the pins on the end of the drum are still good & the capscrew is tight
  12. Could be something as simple as the spring in the selector mechanism. Remove the clutch & primary cover to check the condition of the spring fitted inside the mechanism on the end of the gearchange shaft, part number is M111. The other spring to check is the 1 that keeps pressure on the indexing cam, part number M117 Both of these parts are outside of the gearbox & easy to check once the clutch is off, both are only a couple of quid Sherco gearchange shafts have a weak point built into them that lets them break rather than damage internal parts so I'd be pretty confident that a full motor split will not be required Have a look at this diagram & both springs I mention are on the left http://www.splatshop.co.uk/Parts-Finder/Sherco/2009/290/Gear-Selector/
  13. That's the 1, nothing like what actually happens for certain factory riders
  14. Does anyone remember the FIM video showing how the new rules were to be enforced when the change was made to the current rules? What was meant to happen bears no relation to what the top few riders get away with
  15. Does the TK carb fitted have the main jet screwed into the float bowl like I suspect, if so replace the o-ring that sits on the bottom of the needle jet as if it is damaged it lets fuel bypass the main jet & it will run very rich