tony27

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About tony27

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  • Bike
    jarvis rep,ty250c
  • Club
    manawatu-orion

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  • Location
    Palmerston North New Zealand
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Good that's something simple In answer to your question about the partially covered hole in the flywheel, that is normal
  2. Hadn't opened the photo to see the rivets, if I'd looked closer I would have seen it is on the opposite side of the headstock to mine There is a lot more detail on the label than what is on your bike as well
  3. Kart guys etc swear by it
  4. Nothing like the number on mine. A quick look at as much of the bike as I can see in the photo says probably between 2001 & 2004 model but I'd probably lean towards the older age from the fuel recommendation label Unfortunately the engine number on mine doesn't help with size so I doubt yours will as well, can be found across the back of the cases in front of the swingarm Easy way to tell if it's a 2001 is rear caliper position & number of spokes, 2002 the caliper moved to inside the swingarm on the bigger bikes, I think the 125s & 200s kept the older above the swingarm calipers for at least a year longer,. Spoke count dropped from 36 to 32 at the same time
  5. Filmed in Jakarta
  6. The taper is what does the work, the key is only to allow quick assembly in the same spot every time. This is why you need a puller to remove flywheels, you need to break the mate of the 2 pieces Never had a bike without the key but have seen what happens if the key is slightly too high making the taper not make full contact I would assume there will be marks that have to line up when the motor is set either at TDC or firing position before you tighten the flywheel up fully
  7. Normally when the hall effect sensor fails you get no spark at all or very intermittent spark at best. This comes from experience. If the timing marks are in the right place then it wouldn't hurt to check the stator readings against on splatshop's site
  8. Easiest thing to check is the timing, there should be a mark on the stator that lines up with the edge of 1 mounting lugs. If the timing has been altered too much it can cause overheating When you repack the muffler apart from the difference in noise level you should find that you get an improvement in low end power You don't mention any abnormal noises from the engine so jetting doesn't sound to be any issue, 125 is fairly standard for trials & I've never had any problems trail riding with the same jet even when working the motor hard enough to burn all the oil out of the packing which is normally what you'll see when you stop the motor & it smokes for a while afterwards Photo of the piston looks pretty normal, any damage you would normally see will be further down the skirt, usually scoring is what you'll see
  9. Will probably fit but is quite differently shaped. Only way you'll know for sure is try it
  10. Can be replaced with the engine in the frame still. The clutch needs to come off to do it & a new clutch cover gasket is the only extra part that you really need although I would suggest replacing the water pump seals while the clutch cover is off
  11. The rubbers have gone hard & shrunk, have a look on splatshop's site in their blog on replacing the basket & you'll see the pieces I mean along with the cost of the parts Not a hard job to do if you have the skills, cheap job to do & you may as well replace the basket at the same time if there is any sign of grooving on the fingers I did might a couple of years ago & it helped make the bike sound like new http://www.splatshop.co.uk/blog/2012/10/clutch-basket-fitting-guide/
  12. Sort of horses for courses, try attempting some of the stuff ridden now on even a early monoshock bike & all sorts of things will break Most problems people have with newer bikes are as mentioned caused by either the owner or a previous owner or lack of skill. Like everything there are some exceptions like failing stators which are pure bad luck & often a known problem with that particular bike
  13. 1 other thought A couple of Shercos ago I ended up with major slip which was caused by the bellvue washer used behind the clutch hub nut not doing it's job allowing the nut to sit proud of the end of the layshaft which meant the clutch release bearing wasn't fully returning While you have the pressure plate off have a look at where the nut sits & retorque if needed The reply from Tim at Splatshop is why so many of us hold them in such high regard, they've helped me out a couple of times even though I live as far away from the shop as humanly possible
  14. Do you have the top friction plate rotated into the shallow notch as the factory recommends? I don't know what effect not doing this would have I seem to remember there being marks on the hub & pressure plate that had to be inline as well
  15. Because they use a different style, the chain guided onto the sprocket with a bulky guide that would be forever smashing into things on a trials bike A trials bikes tensioner is generally fairly close to the pivot of the swingarm which offers a degree of protection to it. The difference in length of swingarms may also play a part