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Hi, All! Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s). At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings. I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle. Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such. But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm? If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? Any tips from those that have done this before? Thanks, Jimmie

That's how it works with any engine that has an ignition pickup coil, yes. ... did you gap the spark plug?

Can you move the pickup for the ignition to retard the timing slightly?

My 93 Climber 280 kicks back bad. I thought I was going to break the Kickstarter or my foot. I ended up bruising the bottom of my foot in our last vintage trials. I was hoping it was just a sheared flywheel key. I took it apart felt like the main bearing was loose. Took some effort but I managed to get the flywheel off. Main bearing was tight. Someone put locktite on the crank/flywheel. I cleaned that off. I should have lapped it but was in a hurry. Put it back together. It's tight now. I checked the stator and all screws were tight. Didn't look like it had moved. I put it back together and it's still doing the kick back. I tried both feet, tried when cold, when warm and it still does it about 90 percent of the time. Could my electronic ignition timing curve going bad? Are there any aftermarket replacements? I have an aftermarket electronic ignition on my SWM and it’s working great! Any suggestions? Thanks for any help!

Radiator grille. Easier to cleanhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7365634

Try vvvvvmxyyyyuuuuggj somewhere some place.

I'd try dan Dobson he's in the lake district near Kendal he made my ti exhaust for my c15 you may be able to post it to him he's the best I know

First start for this brand new engine. Run well and fan ok. Great day after more than 4 years of silence.

Perth in Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

JK: see my original reply - the replacement seals in the link did not fit, I reused the old ones. Dan: You could well be right about the silica, the stuff I scraped out looks like the white gunk that builds up in the bottom chamber of a stovetop coffee pot if it isn't used for a while. I just assumed it was corroded alloy.

Please, please, please put something that can be found for those of us not on FB. Cheers.

Anybody that does not do observed trial event checking personally and or organize club events where you are the guy taking care of, positioning, training of the checkers etc. y'all should stay out of it! Only the Diva riders tend to be demanding, protest calls or criticize the actions or placement of the volunteer checkers. Reason being the Diva riders are not the people hosting and needing to convince checkers to voluntarily donate a free day or two of work to observe at the same section all day, just so the Diva' can have consistent checking. Resist the urge to become a Diva rider.

Better with this spring (yellow one is too hard)

What is a stop or a rollback is always open to interpretation, so it's important that an observer is consistent but he shouldn't be applying "his own set of rules". The rider needs to know what the rules are before entering the section. In the absence of full and clear rules from the ACU and AMCA, trial organisers should set out exactly how they want their trial to be marked and include that in the briefing for observers and riders. For what it's worth, most trials I do are nominally "No Stop" but in practice most observers will cut a rider a bit of slack and allow a "pause" or a "hesitation". I do like it that way but prefer it to be clearly stated so that there is consistency.

Hi everyone, I know it has been awhile. I kicked around joining the forum as I enjoyed your comments however I was already apart of another forum I have been on for many years so I did not want another paid forum If this is against site rules feel free to remove it and I apologize in advance, however if anyone would like to follow more progress I am posting updates over here https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/bultaco-m49-sherpa-t-restoration.1408917/#replies Thank you guys! Mikey

Looking at those photographs I cannot see anything . You will just have to trace your steps back until you find the problem .Best wishes Alan.

Where are you located

Did you hold the damper rod end from turning when you hit it with the impact driver or did you let the damper part spin 🤔

Has anyone had any joy getting the titanium exhaust welded ? Mine has developed a 4 inch crack on the front pipe but can’t find a welder to do titanium welding ? Any help would be appreciated

Homemade special parts for Sachs or Boge Shock.

New tubes, bushing, seals. This Marzocchi is finished !