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Well, Big Lumpy Poopy Pants! It's lookin' like your idea to heat up stuff might be how it gets done, feetupfun........ My efforts with my all thread puller didn't work out at all. Can't get that inner steel tube to even budge a tiny amount. It's the first time I can recall stripping nuts and all threaded rod without being able to get something to move. I have the swingarm lightly clamped in a vise while soaking in penetrating oil for now, hoping that enough liquid can get through all those holes that grease is supposed to travel through to do some good for me. Judging by how tight this long steel bushing is in the plastic bushings, and how tight those plastic bushings are pressed in the swingarm, I'm beginning to wonder if I should've not even bothered to remove them. It also makes me curious about how reassembly will go as well........ Any tips, words of encouragement, and facts pointing out what a Goober I am are welcomed! Jimmie

I found a used Climber CDI on eBay. It should be here by Friday. When get a chance I’ll check the stator/trigger coil for resistance. Hope I figure this out before Sunday, I have a trials then. If not I’ll be on my old reliable SWM!

Another great project…can’t wait to see more.

I bought this bike 5 years ago maybe 6. First Owner bike. Used stickers and plastics but this bike was in very good condition. It's time to work on this bike ... one of my dream bike.

It's true, capacitors can degrade over time and alter the components performance. Only way I was ever able to 100% trouble-shoot a CDI module was to have a second machine and start swapping parts until the problems appeared on the other machine.

Sono curioso di sapere come procede perche' sono anche io a fare il restauro....

Hand made dial mount

I'm sure that your puller idea will work. In case this is your next question, the plastic bushes can be hard to get out but they will shrink and fall out if you heat them up with a flame hot enough to burn the paint off the pivot tube.

Yes I gapped a new spark plug to the specs in the manual. I can adjust the timing a little bit. I’ll try that next, thanks. I did read the CDI will degrade over time and cause it to stay in an advanced timing curve, causing this issue. Was hoping someone else ran into this and fixed it.

Okay, I guess I "panic-posted", THEN decided to think........ I recall having done something similar with a length of all-thread rod, some washers, some nuts, a sleeve or two, and used all this stuff similar to how a wrist pin puller/pusher works (gudgeon pin????). Will let ya know how it works out tomorrow. Thanks, Jimmie

Hi, All! Working on making my recently purchased 1974 TY250 rideable. I'm doing repairs from probably decades of neglect, abuse, and a bit of "Hillbilly Engineering" from the previous owner(s). At the same time, I'm making a few minor "upgrades"; like the Sammy Miller wide footpegs that lower and move the pegs slightly rearwards. This requires removal of the swingarm bolt. While that bolt is out, I thought I'd look into replacing the grease nipple and the pivot bushings. I got the swingarm bolt out after somewhat of an epic battle. Now I'd like to get the long inner bushing out; the one sorta shaped like a long dog bone that goes completely through the swing arm pivot and the plastic bushings. After that, I'd like to replace the plastic bushings, seals, and such. But that long steel bushing I tried to describe above is really, REALLY stuck in there. I don't want to bugger it up as I need to reuse it. How is the best way to rmove this, without doing any harm? If I had a lathe, I'd turn some barstock with a step in it to use as a driver, and maybe try pounding/pushing it out that way??? Any tips from those that have done this before? Thanks, Jimmie

That's how it works with any engine that has an ignition pickup coil, yes. ... did you gap the spark plug?

Can you move the pickup for the ignition to retard the timing slightly?

My 93 Climber 280 kicks back bad. I thought I was going to break the Kickstarter or my foot. I ended up bruising the bottom of my foot in our last vintage trials. I was hoping it was just a sheared flywheel key. I took it apart felt like the main bearing was loose. Took some effort but I managed to get the flywheel off. Main bearing was tight. Someone put locktite on the crank/flywheel. I cleaned that off. I should have lapped it but was in a hurry. Put it back together. It's tight now. I checked the stator and all screws were tight. Didn't look like it had moved. I put it back together and it's still doing the kick back. I tried both feet, tried when cold, when warm and it still does it about 90 percent of the time. Could my electronic ignition timing curve going bad? Are there any aftermarket replacements? I have an aftermarket electronic ignition on my SWM and it’s working great! Any suggestions? Thanks for any help!

Radiator grille. Easier to cleanhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7365634

Try vvvvvmxyyyyuuuuggj somewhere some place.

I'd try dan Dobson he's in the lake district near Kendal he made my ti exhaust for my c15 you may be able to post it to him he's the best I know

First start for this brand new engine. Run well and fan ok. Great day after more than 4 years of silence.

Perth in Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

JK: see my original reply - the replacement seals in the link did not fit, I reused the old ones. Dan: You could well be right about the silica, the stuff I scraped out looks like the white gunk that builds up in the bottom chamber of a stovetop coffee pot if it isn't used for a while. I just assumed it was corroded alloy.

Please, please, please put something that can be found for those of us not on FB. Cheers.

Anybody that does not do observed trial event checking personally and or organize club events where you are the guy taking care of, positioning, training of the checkers etc. y'all should stay out of it! Only the Diva riders tend to be demanding, protest calls or criticize the actions or placement of the volunteer checkers. Reason being the Diva riders are not the people hosting and needing to convince checkers to voluntarily donate a free day or two of work to observe at the same section all day, just so the Diva' can have consistent checking. Resist the urge to become a Diva rider.